Lecture Notes: Perms and Relaxers

Introduction

• Presenter: Teresa Muley, Education Consultant with 15 years in cosmetology teaching experience and 22 years in the industry.
• Objective: To understand the chemistry behind perms and relaxers, their differences, and the importance of this knowledge in practice.

Importance of Understanding Perms and Relaxers

• Both deal with keratin protein in hair but behave differently.
• Understanding these processes prevents hair damage and breaking.
• Knowledge required for state board exams across all states.

Hair Structure and Chemistry Basics

• Keratin Protein: Made of 19 amino acids linked by peptide bonds, forming polypeptide chains.
• Side Bonds in Hair: Three types
  • Hydrogen Bonds: Weak, accounts for 1/3 of hair strength. Broken by heat or water.
  • Salt Bonds: Weak, also accounts for 1/3 of hair strength. Broken by changes in pH.
  • Disulfide Bonds: Strong, broken only by chemicals, crucial in chemical hair processes.

Perm Process

• Reduction Process (Perming):
  • Breaking Bonds: Hydrogen and salt bonds broken by water.
  • Introduction of Hydrogen: Ammonium thioglycolate in perm solution adds hydrogen.
  • Effect on Disulfide Bonds: Hydrogen attracts sulfur atoms, breaking disulfide bonds.
  • Reshaping Hair: Hair is reshaped into desired curl pattern.
  • Oxidation (Neutralizing):
    • Introduction of oxygen via neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide).
    • Oxygen forms water with hydrogen, washing out and allowing sulfur to reform disulfide bonds.

Relaxer Process

• Lanthanization (Relaxing):
  • Involves pH change (11-14), causing disulfide bond breakage.
  • Results in lanthionine bond formation, reducing sulfur atoms.
  • Neutralizing Normalizing Shampoo: Brings pH closer to normal, doesn't rebuild disulfide bonds.

Differences Between Perms and Relaxers

• Perms: Break disulfide bonds with hydrogen, reshapes and reforms bonds (reversible).
• Relaxers: Use high pH to permanently break bonds (irreversible without rebuilding).

Precautions and Recommendations

• Avoid overlapping relaxer applications to prevent hair breakage.
• Be cautious with coloring or lightening relaxed hair due to potential for additional damage.

Conclusion

• Understanding the chemistry of perms and relaxers is crucial for hair health and effective styling.
• Careful application and knowledge prevent long-term damage and ensure desired results.

Further Engagement

• Encouraged to follow Teresa Muley on social media and YouTube for more educational content.
• Invites suggestions for more topics to cover.

This summary is intended to provide an overview of key concepts discussed in the lecture, serving as a reference and study aid for understanding perms and relaxers.