at first ego thinks it's a joke but as linguine explains ego's smile disappears he doesn't react beyond asking an occasional question and when the story is done ego stands thanks us for the meal for the meal and leaves without another word the following day his review appears in many ways the work of a critic is easy we risk very little yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment we thrive on negative criticism which is fun to write and read but the bitter truth we critics must face is that in the grand scheme of things the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating itself but there are times when a critic truly risks something and that is in the discovery and defense of the new the world is often unkind to new talent new creations the new needs friends last night i experienced something new an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source to say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement they have rocked me to my core in the past i have made no secret of my disdain for chef gusto's famous motto anyone can cook but i realize only now do i truly understand what he meant not everyone can become a great artist but a great artist can come from anywhere it is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at gustos who is in this critic's opinion nothing less than the finest chef in france i will be returning to gusto soon hungry for more it was a great night the happiest of my life but the only thing predictable about life is its unpredictability well we had to let skinner and the health inspector lose and of course they ratted us out the food didn't matter once it got out there were rats in the kitchen man the restaurant was closed and ego lost his job and his credibility but don't feel too bad for him he's doing very well as a small business investor he seems very happy how do you know gotta go dinner rush [Music] you know how he likes [Music] can i interest you in a dessert this evening don't you always which one would you like surprise me [Music] hey believe me that story gets better when i tell come on [Music]