Chapter 11
THE COLORS OF CHANEL Black. White. Beige. Gold. Red. Black, because it accentuates the essential, and recalls the monastic rigor of the
uniforms at the Aubazine orphanage. Because, for Gabrielle Chanel,
it “reveals a woman’s radiance.” Thanks to Chanel, black evolved from the garments
of servants and those in mourning to become, since 1926, the color of
elegance, epitomized by the Little Black Dress. “I imposed black. It reigns still, because
black trumps all,” Mademoiselle declared. White, because in the beginning
there was white. Because it captures light,
illuminates the face, enhances beauty. Because it is the color of absolute
transparency and transcendence. White, because it reminds Coco of the
cornettes of the nuns from her childhood and of the communion dress
given to her by her father. Beige, because it is warm, simple,
natural. Because it is the color of the worn
earth of Mademoiselle’s native Auvergne and of the beaches of Deauville,
Biarritz, and the Venetian Lido. Because it is for her the color of
the outdoors, of a natural complexion, and the healthy glow of skin
kissed by the sun. Gold, because it embraces both
the genuine and the faux: the genuine gold given to Gabrielle
by the Duke of Westminster, the imitation gold of the costume
jewelry that she endlessly invented. Gold because of the religious relics and the cleric’s brocade robes
that ornamented her childhood. Gold because of the treasures from
Saint Mark ‘s Cathedral in Venice, the Byzantine Empire and the Baroque
art that always inspired her. Red, because “it is the color of life,
of blood,” as Gabrielle Chanel said. Red because it permits,
when used as the lining of a purse a quick find of what
one is looking for. Red because, worn on the lips,
it became Gabrielle’s signature and her declaration of good spirit. “If you’re sad, add more lipstick
and attack. Men hate women who weep,”
Mademoiselle asserted. Black, because it creates depth
among other colors, because it stands out against
a white label, shines in the makeup cases’
luxurious lacquer, lines eyelids and enhances lashes. White, because it illuminates Coco’s
strands of pearls, her camellias and the bouquets of flowers that
surround her with perpetual Spring. White like her timeless silk pajamas, like the dress that she wore
to Diaghilev’s funeral, white like satin, like chiffon and, offset with black braids,
the white tweed of the Chanel suit. Beige, because, against the sacred
union of black and white, it offers a counterpoint, an element
of neutrality and heightened elegance. Beige because, with Chanel makeup,
it revives the skin. Gold, because it shines within
the N°5 bottle, because it adorns the chain of the
quilted bag and the buttons of suits Gold because it is the triumph
of Chanel. Red because it is the color of passion,
of courage, of fire and of energy. Finally, black and white together, because
one cannot exist without the other, because they are absolutely pure
and in perfect accord. Because they are the stroke
of Karl Lagerfeld’s pen. Because they are the signature
of CHANEL.