How to Make Perfume: A Guide to Perfumery

Introduction

• Exploring the art of perfumery.
• Importance of practice and knowledge.
• Goal: Learn to compose perfumes at home.

Essential Equipment

1. Scales
   • Recommended: Scales measuring down to 0.001g.
   • Alternate option: 0.01g scale for beginners.
2. Sample Bottles
   • For test perfumes to avoid wasting expensive bottles.
3. Pipettes
   • Disposable plastic pipettes, e.g., boxes of 500.
4. Blotters/Scent Strips
   • For evaluating scents.
5. Labels & Pens
   • To identify mixtures.
6. Glass Beakers
   • Optional for beginners.

Types of Raw Materials in Perfumery

1. Naturals
   • Essential oils: Extracted via steam distillation.
   • Absolutes: Extracted with solvents, longer lasting scent.
   • Other forms: Resinoids, CO2 extracts (not detailed).
2. Synthetics
   • Single molecules from labs; vital for modern perfumes.
   • Clean olfactory signature, broadens scent possibilities.
3. Bases
   • Solvents like DPG and IPM, cosmetics grade ethanol for beginners.

Important Raw Materials to Start With

• Isoe Super: Long-lasting diffusive note.
• Hedione: Contributes to elegant scent.
• Ambroxan: Used for depth and warmth.
• Bergamot Essential Oil: Citrus note, bridges top/mid-notes.
• Ethylene Bracelate: Musk for longevity.
• Patchouli: Herbaceous note for various accords.
• Vanillin: Sweet vanilla scent.
• Dihydromercenol: Fresh aromatic top note.

Where to Buy Raw Materials

• Buy from reputable perfumery suppliers for quality ingredients.
  • USA: Perfumer's Apprentice, Perfumer's Supply House.
  • UK: Pellwall, Harrison Joseph.
  • EU: Dehexerage, PCW, Perfumiarz.
  • East Asia: Perfumer's World.

Common Terms in Perfumery

1. EDT (Eau de Toilette): 10% fragrance concentrate.
2. EDP (Eau de Parfum): 20% fragrance concentrate.
3. Top Notes: Short-lived, impactful initial scents.
4. Mid Notes: Last longer than top notes, provide heart character.
5. Base Notes: Long-lasting, define the scent’s lasting impression.
6. Accords vs. Bases:
   • Accord: Combination of smells that create a unique scent.
   • Base: Reproducible formula like building blocks.

Stages of Learning Perfumery

Stage 1: Learning Raw Materials

• Dilute raw materials before evaluating (10% or 20% in alcohol).
• Evaluate with scent strips: label, dip, wait, and describe the scent.

Stage 2: Creating Accords and Bases

• Test harmony of raw materials before blending.
• Create trial blends of accords; adjust ratios based on evaluations.

Stage 3: Creating Perfumes

• Combine accords with mid and top notes for a balanced formula.
• Perform multiple iterations with small changes for refinement.

Safety Precautions

• Handle alcohol and raw materials safely; avoid flames and heat.
• Research IFRA standards for safe levels in perfumes.
• Use gloves and goggles for added protection.

Recommended Books for Further Learning

• Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Elena: Beginner friendly.
• Perfumery Practice and Principles: Comprehensive textbook.
• Scent and Chemistry: Technical, for chemists.
• Diary of a Nose: Captivating read on perfumery.
• Books by Stefan Arctander: Excellent descriptions of raw materials.
• Introduction to Perfumery: Focus on industry and professional standards.

Conclusion

• Perfumery requires time and practice; results are rewarding.
• Explore additional resources for in-depth understanding.
• Subscribe for more insights on perfume creation.