Milady Standard Cosmetology 2016 - Chapter 21: Hair Coloring

Learning Objectives

• LO1: Reasons for hair coloring.
• LO2: Hair porosity's effect on hair color.
• LO3: Types of melanin in hair.
• LO4: Levels and their role in hair color formulation.
• LO5: Identify primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.
• LO6: Role of tone and intensity in hair color.
• LO7: Categories of hair color.
• LO8: Role of hydrogen peroxide in hair color.
• LO9: Action of hair lighteners.
• LO10: Key questions for hair color formulation.
• LO11: Importance of patch tests.
• LO12: Preliminary strand test purpose.
• LO13: Procedure for virgin single-process color service.

Importance of Studying Hair Coloring

• Hair coloring is a popular and creative salon service.
• It allows stylists to express creativity and artistry.
• Knowledge of hair coloring chemicals is crucial for safe client services.
• Hair coloring can enhance haircuts, cover gray, and address hair imperfections.

Understanding Why People Color Their Hair

• Cover or blend gray hair.
• Enhance existing hair color.
• Make a fashion statement.
• Correct unwanted tones from environmental exposure.
• Complement a haircut.

Hair Structure and Porosity

• Cuticle: Outer layer, protective, and contributes to hair strength.
• Cortex: Middle layer, contains melanin, adds strength and elasticity.
• Medulla: Innermost, not involved in coloring.
• Porosity: Low, average, and high porosity affect hair color application and results.

Types of Melanin and Levels

• Eumelanin: Black/brown colors.
• Pheomelanin: Blonde/red colors.
• Mixed Melanin: Combination of both.
• Level System: Identifies lightness/darkness (levels 1-10).

Color Theory

• Primary colors: Red, yellow, blue.
• Secondary colors: Green, orange, violet.
• Tertiary colors: Mixes of primary and secondary colors.
• Complementary colors neutralize each other.

Categories of Hair Color

• Temporary: Easily shampoos out, no chemical change.
• Semipermanent: No-lift, deposit-only, fades after several shampoos.
• Demipermanent: Deposit-only, gentle fade, no lightening.
• Permanent: Lightens and deposits, contains ammonia and peroxide.

Developers and Lighteners

• Hydrogen Peroxide Developers: Volumes 10-40, affect lift and color development.
• Lighteners: Disperse natural pigment, essential for achieving lighter shades.
• Double-Process Coloring: Involves pre-lightening and toning.

Hair Coloring Procedures

• Patch Test: Essential for detecting allergies.
• Preliminary Strand Test: Assesses color result on a small hair section.
• Application Techniques: Proper methods ensure consistency and desired outcomes.

Special Effects Techniques

• Highlighting: Lightens strands to add depth.
• Reverse Highlighting: Darkens strands for contrast.
• Cap, Foil, and Baliage Techniques: Methods for applying highlights or lowlights.

Gray Hair Challenges and Solutions

• Formulating for gray involves understanding the coverage needs.
• Pre-Softening: Enhances color penetration for resistant gray hair.
• Use of neutrals for effective blending.

Safety Precautions

• Perform patch tests.
• Avoid applying color if scalp abrasions or metallic colors are present.
• Follow manufacturer's directions precisely.
• Use protective measures like gloves and proper draping.

Conclusion

Hair coloring is a multifaceted service requiring knowledge of color theory, hair structure, and chemical products. Proper consultation, testing, and formulation are critical for achieving desired results and ensuring client safety.