Overview
This lecture explains cutting lines, guidelines, and over direction in haircutting, detailing their definitions, types, and significance in creating different haircut shapes.
Cutting Lines (Cutting Angles)
- Cutting lines are the angles at which fingers are held when cutting hair, determining the final shape.
- Other terms for cutting lines include cutting angle, finger line, finger angle, holding line, and holding angle.
- For a zero degree haircut, fingers are held horizontally with no elevation, cutting straight across below the fingers.
- In a 45 degree haircut, hair is elevated to 45 degrees and fingers are diagonal to the head, cutting below the fingers.
- In a 90 degree haircut, hair is elevated 90 degrees and fingers are vertical, cutting above the fingers.
- For a 180 degree haircut, hair is elevated to 180 degrees, fingers horizontal, cutting above the fingers.
- Changing the finger angle or elevation changes the haircut outcome.
Guidelines
- Guidelines are small subsections of hair that determine the cutting length and are typically the first section cut.
- Four types of guidelines include: perimeter, interior, stationary, and traveling guidelines.
- Perimeter guidelines set the outer edge of the haircut and follow the natural hairline, used in 90-degree or over-directed cuts.
- Interior guidelines are inside the haircut and are used in 45, 90, and 180-degree cuts or when all hair is over-directed.
- Stationary guidelines (do not move) are used for perimeter and in 0 and 180 degree haircuts; all hair is directed to this guide.
- Traveling guidelines (move along the cut) are used in 45, 90, and 180 degree cuts; each new cut section becomes the next guide.
Over Direction
- Over direction involves moving hair away from its natural fall, either to a stationary interior or perimeter guide.
- Over direction is not the same as elevation; elevation is lifting hair upward, while over direction is moving hair laterally (sideways).
- Used to create gradual or dramatic increases in hair length and shape.
Key Terms & Definitions
- Cutting Line — The angle at which fingers are held when cutting hair.
- Guideline — A subsection of hair that determines the length to cut the rest.
- Perimeter Guideline — The outer line of the haircut, following the hairline.
- Interior Guideline — The internal guide within the haircut for length.
- Stationary Guideline — A guide that does not move; all hair is directed to it.
- Traveling Guideline — A moving guide; each new section cut becomes the next guide.
- Over Direction — Moving hair away from natural fall to create length change.
- Elevation — Lifting hair upward from its natural position.
Action Items / Next Steps
- Review definitions of cutting lines, guidelines, and over direction.
- Practice identifying and holding finger angles for different haircuts.
- Memorize the four guideline types and when to use each.