here we go third year in a row it's time for the 2023 5-in fpv freestyle budget build this year's drone is capable of 6s has onboard Bluetooth so you can do all the setup and tuning right on your phone this thing can very easily carry a full-size GoPro we've got elrs on board and the best part this drone is only going to cost you $200 in [Music] Parts all right let's look at the parts that I'm using for this year's build usually when I do these build videos Parts sell out pretty quick so I'll leave some alternative parts next to the ones that I use in this video also prices change one day A Part could be $20 and then the next day it'll be $23 in general though the parts that I use in this drone should always total to somewhere around2 200 bucks for the frame this year we're going to be using the latest and greatest The Source One V5 now you can get this from get fpv race St quads pyro drone you can get it from a bunch of us retailers and it's always going to cost about 30 bucks last year we used the V 3 frame the V5 frame has been out for long enough now where there's a good amount of 3D printable parts for it so this is the one we're using Speedy B f405 V3 I almost went with the V4 but I wanted to keep the build under 200 bucks for you guys and that would have pushed it $10 over I used this in my budget build last year and in my opinion it is still the best budget stack that you can get for the money this thing sells for only 60 bucks and it's easily the best bang for your buck it's got Bluetooth built in so we can set up the Drone wirelessly using the Speedy B app we've got 50 aamp esc's that are capable of 6s plus it's got tons of pads to hook up pretty much anything you need GPS beeper LEDs all that good stuff if you have an extra $10 definitely take a look at the new Speedy B V4 stack I have a whole review video on that and I'll leave a link to it right up here otherwise I really think the V3 for the price is still the best that you can get next up the motors for this build we're going to be using t- motor's new velock V3 2207 1750 KV Motors so this drone is going to be capable of success t-motor makes some awesome equipment I use their Motors in my recent long range build and the thing flies awesome the v3s come in at less than $15 a piece which is actually cheaper than the eco2 motors now next up the camera and the VTX on this build are going to be analog analog gear is some of the cheapest that you can get plus if you're new to the Hobby and you're upgrading from an all-in-one kit chances are you have a set of analog goggles probably something like this those will work perfect with the equipment in this build for the VTX we've got a nice little happy model ovx 303 this has 25 to 300 M output power and this was selling on race day quad site for only 13 bucks um I like happy model products so I was like you know what it's going in the budget build the VTX comes with a pretty cheap antenna but you can always replace it to get better range if you wanted camera wise we've got the foxier Razer micro 1200 tvl camera I don't have many analog quads at this point since I've upgraded most of them to DJI or walks snail but the few analog drones that I have actually have this camera on it I was surprised to see that this thing thing was only selling for 19 bucks receiver this is going to vary from build to build but I'm using a happy model elrs receiver this is their ep1 and it's probably the cheapest elrs receiver that you can get 13 bucks just like the VTX for props this year we're going to be using some of these azer azer how do you say it uh Johnny freestyle props these are 5-in freestyle props I've been using these on a couple of builds and I love how these perform also last but not least this isn't required but I would definitely recommend it uh this is only an additional three bucks or so get some of this mesh wire protector this is going to go around your motor wires and it's going to prevent them from potentially getting chopped up in a crash and it just keeps the build nice and clean all right so the first thing we got to do put your frame together I'm not going to show you how to do this because it's pretty straightforward and The Source One V5 frame is a very widely used frame and there's tons of documentation on how to put this thing together um all the parts you need are included in this little bag you get the standoffs screws everything's included in here so I'm going to put that together you're going to need a little screwdriver I'm going to be using this this is an electric screwdriver kit uh I got this for like 20 bucks I'll leave a link to this down in the description but it comes with every bit you'd ever need to assemble a drone and uh yeah that's what I'm going to be using I'll leave a link to it down below otherwise let's put our frame together all right time to mount the motors um don't put your top plate on yet this is going to be easier to do when we're at the end I have the little camera plates on here I'm going to have to remove those but whatever dude um get it to this point make sure the screws are you know you don't have to have them completely tight down but enough to hold it in place now it's time to put our Motors on so we'll grab our Motors get them out of the box and we're going to mount those directly to the frame so all of the necessary Hardware that you will need to mount the motors uh comes with it so you're going to get this bag of screws you get the motor and you also get a little propeller nut in there too just going to put that on now I'm going to show you guys how to put one of these motors on and you can do the remaining three so you get a bunch of different screws in the kit these are different length lengths I think so when we're putting this motor on here it doesn't matter which arm it goes on all the motors are going to be the exact same since they're brushless motors they can spin clockwise or counterclockwise um when you're looking at the Drone like this we have the camera up here so the Drone is facing this way we have motor one 2 3 and four unless you go into betaf flight and start remapping the motors and remapping which Motors what that will always be the case so I'm going to mainly focus on motor one showing you guys how to hook this up so I'm going to take this motor I'm going to take we have two different screws here we have some smaller ones and then we have some bigger ones we're going to be using the bigger ones on this so these ones just they give you two different sizes in case you're using a frame that's thinner this is a pretty thick frame this Frame is going to be very durable how thick are these arms these arms are 6 mm thick so these are pretty thick um so we're going to be using the bigger screws to fit all the way through the frame and then into the motor now when you're doing this you shouldn't have any problem because this is the biggest screw that they include um but if you did end up up using your own screws that are a little bit longer than these just make sure that the screw doesn't go up into the motor because if you have this screw go through that and into the motor itself like into the winding uh you're going to you're going to ruin the motor so don't do that so now take out the other three motors and do exactly what we did to motor one on the rest of them all right so now that we've got our Motors all hooked up it's time to get our flight controller ESC St back on board underneath this cover we have long screws for the flight controller as well as Vib more vibration dampeners we've got a capacitor in here too um and then we have our wires that connect everything and we also get an xt60 so comes with everything you need first thing we got to do is we got to get these long screws out of this bag so when I was assembling the frame I only put in the 20x 20 mounting screws those are the four screws right here in the middle of the plate the outer screws I left open because we're going to be using these long ones to uh secure down our flight controller so this the screws that came with the frame are only this long so don't use those um we're going to use these now we're going to put these in the same way we did the other ones and now just screw them all the way [Music] down all right so you get those four screws in and those aren't only going to be holding the flight controller ESC stack but it's going to be holding the arms in place as well so we have um two screws per arm that are just kind of holding those in so if you did have to replace an arm all you got to do is take out those two screws and then the arm should come off so now the ESC and the fight controller can go on those 30x30 mounting points that we just installed so this is going to sit in the Drone right like that um we're not going to keep it on here because we have to solder up the capacitor and the xt60 so the way we're going to do this is it comes with the capacitor and the xt60 so I'm going to open this up looking at the capacitor you have this Mark on the side that's for ground so we're going to make sure that that is hooked up to ground now the way that I'm going to hook up the capacitor right now is I'm going to take the ESC off and if you look at the battery pads on the ESC there's two little holes those are meant for the capacitor so what you can do is you can actually feed the capacitor through those holes and it just makes soldering 10 times easier so we're going to do that and I'm actually going to mount it from underneath right like this CU what I'm planning on doing is I'm going to have the capacitor Bend like that to sit back a little bit if you do this in the Drone it makes it a little bit easier uh when you go to solder it so I got my soldering iron uh heating up but this is how how we're going to be connecting the capacitor I have it being fed through those little holes on the bottom of the ESC and I kind of positioned it right against the frame and uh that's going to just keep it nice and clean so we have the positive and negative poles kind of sticking up so I'm actually going to cut those a little bit above the uh where they come through so those are still coming through make sure it's all pushed down correctly that's exactly how I want it so I'm going to take some flux and if you guys don't know how to solder I'm not going to go over how to solder in this video um I have a whole other video on soldering if you're curious about it I'm not the best solderer but you know what does the job whatever dude I don't care I'm just going to heat this up feed some solder on there just to secure down the capacitor and then we'll move on to the battery lead that looks good just enough to hold the capacitor on there now it's not going going to fall out it's uh it's in there pretty good I'm going to be using some of this blue tack this is meant for hanging stuff on the wall um but you can use it to hold circuit boards and stuff too while you solder to it so I just push it down onto my table and then push the ESC lightly onto it and now that that isn't moving anywhere and it just makes it a lot easier to solder to it so now it's time to get the xt60 on here again keep in mind uh voltage is red ground is black back so this is going to be flipped over like that I'm going to Tin these ends right here just to make it easier to connect there's probably a little solder on there already but it really does help having it on there before you put it on and I'm also going to Tin the battery pads so I'm going to put a little bit more solder on there just a little bit you don't need too much so so now taking our xt60 battery lead we'll start with the negative cuz that's on this side we got some solder on the end here and we've got some solder on the pad just to make things easy is ground and you can kind of push it into the pad that'll kind of just help heat everything up there you go that'll work all right so now this is pretty much ready to go on the Drone the only thing I'm going to do before I put it onto those um screws and leave it I'm going to take this ribbon cable right here this came with the uh flight controller stack this is going to connect the flight controller to the ESC and it's going to plug into this port right here this is the only plug on this ESC that you have plugs in only one way make sure that is plugged in all the way there you go so now this is going to plug into our flight controller and we can secure this down on the frame this is going to sit right like this lift those up a little bit and these will get fed right in between there all right so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to get our Motors hooked up now before we start soldering I'm going to take some of this mesh wire protector and again this isn't needed but you should secure the motor wires down somehow this stuff just makes it very clean and you can get this whole roll for like I don't know three bucks this is going to be going around the motor wires so I'm going to measure out how much I want I'm going to have about that much just kind of eyeball it doesn't have to be crazy exact what really helps with this shielding is if you take a lighter and just kind of lightly melt the outside so it doesn't start fraying you don't have to hold it for too long um just enough so that it starts to kind of melt together and you should be good so now what we can do is we can take our motor wires and we're going to feed it through this wire mesh perfect slide that all the way up to the motor that looks pretty good A couple of these small zip ties going to run this through here and this is just going to hold it in place and I'm probably going to keep this on after we're done anyways so so put that on Cut the excess off so now that's kind of holding it nice in place and just out of the way I'm actually going to do this with all these motors just because having these flop around while I'm trying to do this kind of distracting so I'm going to do that real quick and then we'll continue with motor one all right so the way I'm going to be running my Motors you can do this any way you want you can have it go straight to these three pads these three pads right here are motor one these three pads right here are motor two and then these three are motor three and those three three motor 4 so you can run these wires any way you want you can run them straight to those three pads the way I'm going to be doing it though because we do have a lot of space in between the flight controller and the ESC I'm actually going to run these wires towards the power connector and then they're going to turn and they're going to go like this straight to the pads so when you're doing this make sure that you have enough room between The Grommet on the ESC and The Grommet on the flight controller so that you are able to make sure that it's sitting nice and flat um but these wires are are eventually going to be running right like that so it's going to keep it nice and clean again you can run these however you want um but that's how I'm going to do it just to keep this looking good so the first thing we got to do is put a little bit of flux on these motor pads and then we're going to Tin them and then we're going to trim our motor wires so that they uh can go onto those pads easy nice so with the motor pads all tinned up it's time to hook up our motor so like I said I'm going to be running the motor wires along this way and it's going to go right like that so right where my thumb is that's where we're going to be cutting the wires this is a good way to measure it so now let's just splice the ends you can use wire strippers if you want I just use my thumbnail whatever dude so let's tin those wires now run them as they're supposed to be ran right like that so I'm going to start with this first one this one's going right like that so we'll solder this one down first one two three so now motor one is hooked up we can obviously clean this up a little bit just to make sure that those wires are sitting nice and flush that looks awesome so I'm going to do that exact same process for Motors 2 3 and four and then our Motors are all going to be hooked up look at that I've honestly never soldered wires like this before on an ESC this is my first time doing it and I love how this came out this keeps it nice and clean you don't have any wires hanging off the side here I've seen a couple drone builds where people do this and I've wanted to do one for some time and I think this is the perfect uh build to do it on because the ESC is kind of sticking out a little bit on this Frame when you take the flight controller and put it on top you'll actually see that there's still a lot of room between those wires and the flight flight controller so love how this looks next thing on the list is going to be putting our flight controller on so the flight controller is going to have a little arrow there's one right down bottom here no matter what flight controller you get you're probably going to have that arrow and that is always pointing forward um you can configure the flight controller to sit right sit left sit backwards sit sideways sit upside down it's easiest if you can just mount it like this so we're going to mount it like this this ribbon cable right here that's connected to the ESC we can connect that into this port right here this one's meant for a DJI air unit and this plug isn't even going to fit in that one um it only fits in this one so it should plug right in right like that make sure that it's pushed in all the way and then this can sit right on the 30x30 mounting so now we're going to take these that were included with the flight controller and we're just going to secure that down because we are pretty much all set with that um all the the rest of the soldering that we're going to be doing is just to this top board so now let's hop over to the camera VTX and receiver those are the only three components that we're going to have to solder to the fight controller so let's start with the camera this again comes with everything you need so this is going to control the image on the camera if you need it to here's a nice long cable for the camera and then this is going to hook into the back of the camera in case you need to adjust any settings you really shouldn't have to adjust them too much uh but they include this in case you do and here's our camera this camera is going to fit right in the frame right up front like that um and then this is going to plug right into the back we have a little pin out we've got video ground and VCC or voltage so we're going to make sure that this plugs in the right way it only plugs in one way take these little screws out and we're going to secure the camera down and they include a bunch of washers in case you need them um otherwise we're just going to need these tiny little screws and camera is going to sit pretty much in these plates so we're going to pull these plates out and the camera has text on it so you can tell which way is right side up which way would be upside down don't install your camera upside down take these brackets you can choose which hole you want to put it in so screw that into the camera through the um side plate make sure you have it in the exact same hole otherwise it's not going to sit on the frame correctly there's your camera so now we can slide this back where it's supposed to go you've got two grooves in the bottom of the frame and this should just uh click right into place right like that and now we have a bunch of excess wire where uh from the camera so I'm actually going to trim it about here and we'll save this put a little bit of flux on all of these pads up top all right so real quick I want to show you guys the pins that we're going to be soldering to uh for the camera receiver and video transmitter first off the camera right up front these are the wires for the camera we're going to be hooking those three wires up to the 5V ground and cam pins these top three right here over on this side we have four more pins that we're going to be using for the receiver we've got ground 4v5 R2 and T2 so ur2 is going to be used for the receiver 4v5 is basically going to power the receiver when we hook up a USB connection to this so you can power the receiver without having to plug a battery in which is nice so that's what the receiver is going to be hooked up to and then for the video transmitter unfortunately that requires a 5vt input so we won't be able to use the plug-and playay port down the bottom that's meant for an air unit or an 03 air unit so instead we're going to use this 5vt pad right here right next to that is a ground and then underneath we have art1 we have R1 and T1 we're mainly just going to be using the TX or T1 pad uh for smart audio and then right next to that we have VTX so that's where the uh video transmitter wire is going to hook up to so mainly these four pads down the bottom so I'm going to put a little bit of flux we'll put some solder on there just to get it ready so we can solder everything up let's start with hooking up the camera since that's uh right here and ready to go I'm going to actually unplug it cuz it's going to make this a little bit easier we'll take these wires trim off the ends just kind of exposing the wire right like that let's tin them we'll start with 5 volt since that's closest to me we'll get ground and then cam right next to it so this is going to be the video image going out of the camera and into the flight controller and then it's going to be pushed out the VTX Tab and into our video transmitter and this plugs in right like that boom there's your camera let's do the same for the receiver and then the video transmitter is there no wires in this are you kidding me happy model all right so happy model didn't include any wires with the ep1 receiver so what we're going to have to do is we're going to take some of the wires from the flight controller stack it's pretty much the same cable that's connecting the flight controller to the ESC just a little bit longer so what I'm going to do is I'm actually going to cut the ends off and we're going to use this to hook up our receiver so we'll take the white red black and we'll use the yellow and these are going to be our receiver wires so we'll trim the ends down tin them up and we'll get them soldered to the receiver and then we'll get it soldered to the flight controller tin those pads a little bit [Applause] boom boom so we'll start with ground since that's on the far end uh closest to me voltage right next to it yellow on the next pad and that's going to be the TX pad and and then we'll use white for RX on the far end so now when we're hooking up the receiver to the flight controller something to keep in mind is you want to reverse how you connect the uh TX and RX pads so on the receiver I have the yellow wire hooked up to TX and the white wire hooked up to RX so the white wire on the flight controller is actually going to hook up to TX and the yellow one is going to hook up to RX so you want to reverse them picture it this way you have a transmitted signal that's coming out TX and you need something to receive that signal so you're going to hook it up to RX so what this is transmitting you're going to want the flight controller to receive so transmit receive it kind of makes sense when you think of it that way um but yeah TX to RX rxtx and then ground to ground voltage to voltage so let's hook that up to these four pads right now we'll start with ground since that's the closest one to me we'll do vol voltage next to the 4v5 pad right next to the ground and then remember TX is the yellow wire that I have on mine so that's going to connect to RX so that's going to go to the next pad and then this white wire is going to go to TX cuz that's hooked up to RX on the receiver sick there's your receiver so now you can take this and kind of coil it up just to keep these wires nice and tidy and what we're going to do is we're going to take the heat shrink I'm going to put it around here and I'm going to slide it down the wires because we have to hook up our antenna and then our antenna is going to go underneath this I'm actually going to trim this zip tie off and we're going to put a new one on uh just to make this a little easier and we're we're going to run the antenna underneath and it's going to go up and we we'll just secure this to about that location just somewhere on the arm is fine all right so I got the antenna secured down just using a couple zip ties and then we have the wire going underneath this one and this is the zip tie that's just holding the uh motor wires down so now we can take that and we can hook it up to Our receiver and then we can tuck the receiver um out of the way kind of up near the video transmitter I'm actually going to take this heat shrink off and we're going to have it sitting like this so I'll hook up the antenna so that it's kind of in the same direction as the wires and we'll take the heat shrink put it around it like that and this is just going to kind of live up here next to the camera tucked underneath the camera very nice all right so now it is time to hook up our video transmitter so this is the video transmitter and they didn't include wires with this either so what we're going to do is we're going to take the other plug that we got and this is meant for an air unit now if you're using an air unit obviously uh you can just plug it in and you can attach this end to the air unit and you're good to go since we're not using that we're going to actually cut up this wire and we're going to use this one to hook up our VTX so I'm going to do the same thing that I did with the receiver I'm going to just cut this end off same with this end now we're left with wires for our video transmitter so I'm going to use the black one we'll do the red one and we'll do the yellow and white same as the receiver all right now do the same thing to these splice these ends off tin them up and then we'll get them attached to the video transmitter we got our 5vt up top ground underneath that underneath that we have our smart audio and then on the very bottom we have our video tab so I'm going to have these wires run over the board because it's going to be sitting in the Drone kind of like this and the flight controller is going to be up here so the wires going to go up that way take the red one we'll start with voltage ground and now we'll do white for smart audio and then we'll do yellow for the video those pads are really tiny if you're not good at soldering I would definitely suggest getting a practice board and just practice on some really small pads but those are pretty small I forgot to show this but attaching the antenna pretty straightforward you have the little UFL connector right here and if you wanted to upgrade the antenna from something like this you're not going to get the best range out of something like this um I'm going to use it just in this video but if you wanted to upgrade this all you would need is a UFL to SMA adapter and then you could use any SMA antenna with this build so I'm going to use this one all you do put it on there click it down you'll feel when it uh clicks down and you're good so we already got these pads tinned so let's just grab the bottom two so we'll do video first the yellow wire is going to connect to VTX now grab smart audio and that is what's going to connect to the TX pad you want to make sure that this is on TX not RX otherwise it won't work Gra ground first right here there you go now we have our video transmitter all hooked up so as far as mounting the VTX goes you have a couple different options of how you can do this you could get some heat shrink and just kind of zip tie it to the frame don't just zip tie the board itself right like this to the frame because then I'm sure you'll short circuit something the carbon frame is conductive so it can short out equipment so don't do that at the very least put it in some heat shrink the way that I'm doing this is I'm actually using some of the spare camera screws and then I have these little M2 nylon um standoffs I'll leave a link to these down in the description you can get these pretty cheap I'm using these These are going to sit on the 20x20 mounting holes on the back and basically with the VTX you have these additional ears on the side so I'm going going to remove the 25x 25 holes so the outer two um holes I'm going to just remove those and you can just cut them off right like that and now the video transmitter is going to sit perfectly on these little standoffs that I got so I just fed it through the xt60 a little bit and now this can sit on the standoffs right like that and then we can use a couple nylon nuts to just kind of hold it down so now let's get the top plate on here the top plate fits on pretty easily you have grooves up top for the camera so this is just going to sit in right like that boom get a bunch of leftover screws from the frame so we'll put those in and the nice thing about this Frame is uh there are a lot of 3D printable parts available for it you don't need the 3D printed Parts um and if you don't have a 3D printer there's race day quads if you send them an STL like say if you wanted a GoPro amount for this you could probably honestly just buy a GoPro mount for this Frame from race day quads or if you have a specific Mount or a specific 3D printable item that you want on this drone if you send them the STL they'll actually print it for you and they charge pretty fair for it so if you do need something 3D printed check out race day quads I'll leave a link to that service down below too um but yeah there are tons of 3D printable parts for this Frame pretty clean you got a lot of space above the flight controller so you can put a strap there to hold your battery on oh yeah speaking of the battery we also got this battery grip so let's take this off and put this on real quick this thing is nice I love how this came out so the only thing that's really left is tuning and beta flight we'll take it out for a flight before we do any of that though we got to plug this thing in and make sure it starts up so when you're doing this I would highly recommend getting a smoke stopper like I'm about to use this is a smoke stopper you can get these on race day quads get fpv pyro drone they pretty much all sell them um but what this does is when you plug in a battery if you were to just plug in a battery right now if you had a short somewhere on the board if you had two pads that were bridged you could destroy the flight controller and then it's not repairable if you have something like this it's going to actually detect the short and stop battery voltage from going into the flight controller and potentially ruining your equipment so let me go get a battery real quick and I'll show you how this works so here I have a tattoo 1050 when I plug it in here we're going to see a red light meaning that it's getting power from from the battery and when I plug this into the Drone if the light stays on the drone's going to start up and we know that everything's good with the Drone if the light turns off and you don't hear any startup sounds that means that you have a short somewhere on the board and you're going to want to go back and just double check your soldering so let's plug this in and see what [Music] happens you can see the video transmitters on the receiver's flashing up front we got lights on the flight controller love it all right so now that we know that this thing starts up fine and all the soldering is on point let's go plug this into the computer and start tuning it all right so it's time to tune the Drone when you're doing this make sure you don't have any props on the Drone we're going to be plugging in a battery so I'm going to plug this into my computer and we're going to start with ESC configurator so we are going to plug a battery into this right off the bat so I'm going to open up Chrome and you go to ESC configurator dcom make sure you're not not running betaf flight in the background cuz if betaf flight connects to the flight controller before ESC configurator does you're not going to be able to connect to it through this so make sure you don't have beta flight running in the background we're going to go to connect we can plug our battery into the Drone this is going to supply power to the [Music] esc's now we're going to hop down to read settings it's going to read the four esc's It should read it as blh s so we see we have BL s on every single ES so what we're going to do is hop down to flash all esc's this is going to just write blue J to them so we'll select the firmware blue j keep this at whatever pops up it should be gh50 if you're using this board um but typically you don't have to change this at all uh go down to version and we'll select the latest one which is 19.2 pwm frequency set that to 24 and we'll hit flash so now we'll just let this do its thing it's going to flash uh the firmware to every ESC and then we'll continue all right so so once that's all set it'll go back to this screen now the you shouldn't have to adjust anything on this side uh the only thing that I really adjust is the beep strength and this is pretty much the volume of the startup tune and I usually adjust this to about 20 or so we'll do 19 and once you've adjusted whatever you want to adjust on this side like I said you really shouldn't have to adjust anything just click right settings it's a lot faster than when you're flashing firmware and now it's done so let's disconnect from this and we'll open up betaf flight so once we open open up beta flight let's hop over to update firmware we're going to select auto detect this is going to automatically detect what flight controller you have in the Drone you should see Speedy beef 405 V3 that's the board we're using 4.4.2 is the latest version I'm running 4.4.2 already on this flight controller but I'm going to show you guys how to flash it anyways um turn this off turn this off full chip erase have that on and then this stuff down here looks pretty good you shouldn't have to adjust any of that just make sure that this says speedy b40 5 and you're flashing the latest firmware full chip erase and we'll load firmware looks good we'll hit flash firmware it's going to give you this wipe out settings we haven't done anything on this flight controller this isn't going to affect the ESC firmware this is just looking at the flight controller so we're going to hit ignore the risk so now just let it do its thing it'll Flash the firmware and then we'll continue all right so now it's all set we'll hit connect you're going to get this apply custom defaults we're going to apply custom defaults now you'll probably be greeted with this warning there's no motor output protocol selected so we'll do these two things first uh the accelerometer we can actually do from this initial screen make sure the Drone is on a stable level surface we'll hit calibrate accelerometer so that's going to eliminate one of those warnings that popped up and then we'll go down to the motors Tab and ESC motor protocol we're going to be running dshot 600 and since we just flashed blue J to the esc's we're going to turn on the ESC sensor and bir directional dshot that looks good we're going to come back to this Motors Tab in a little bit uh when we're adjusting the direction of the motors so we'll save reboot all right so now let's hop down to the ports tab now the receiver we put on ur2 so that's good we're going to keep that just how it is serial RX you want that enabled on whatever U you put it on if you put it on Art 3 turn it off here turn on here we're using ur2 so just keep this the same this one we're going to keep on cuz this is actually the Bluetooth that's built into the flight controller so we're going to keep that on and then we have the ESC sensor um on uart 5 so those are kind of the default settings the only one that we have to turn on that isn't on right now is our video transmitter so we want to turn on smart audio for that so we used ur1 for the video transmitter so we're going to go all the way down to peripherals and we're going to select the drop down and then turn on smart audio for the VTX right like that and that's the only one that we really have have to adjust save reboot now we'll go down to configuration I usually adjust the arming angle to 180 make sure you have air mode on if you have any LEDs that you hooked up to it turn that on here and then dshot Beacon configuration so since we're running dshot we can use the ESC beeps as a beeper we're going to turn this on and this on so if you when you have the Beeper function uh enabled on your controller when you click that it'll beep the esc's if you don't have a designated beeper so that's all we have to adjust in here so we'll save and reboot let's hop down to we don't have to do anything in power battery faill save presets pit tuning you actually don't have to do any tuning on this you can if you want to uh but I think the Drone flies pretty good without any tune and I feel like tuning is kind of its own Beast there's t tons of videos on tuning a drone so if you wanted to get into that you can but for this build you don't have to so pit profile settings we're going to keep the same rate profile this is kind of stick response and how the Drone flies again we don't really have to adjust anything in here and we don't have to adjust anything under filters either all right so now what we're going to do is hop down to the receiver tab so I have my controller right here I have a what is this thing elrs module that I have on the back of my Mambo is the beta fpv superg one Watt um module and it's not bound to my receiver yet so let's go into our Wi-Fi settings and just kind of look at the available networks and you should see express lrs RX we're going to connect to this and if it asks for a password the password is just Express lrs once you connect to that it should open up a web browser and you'll be able to configure all the settings for your Receiver right through here so this receiver is already running 3.3.0 binding phrase key in your binding phrase whatever you have on your controller um use that as The Binding phrase and it'll just automatically connect so I'm going to go through here I'm going to key in my binding phrase and then we'll hit save upload succeeded we'll hit reboot and on your radio you should then get reception so now our controller is bound up to the elrs receiver let's go back into beta flight and you should see stick movement now so if it looks like this all you have to do for this is go down to the Channel map right here and we're going to change that from default to Spectrum and you can also put it on FR FR Sky if you're still having issues but if you change it to this when you hit save should be all set double check make sure throttle throttle my throttles only go into that percentage because I have this knob mapped to throttle control so we'll have it maxed out for this video but make sure that all of those are responding correctly make sure your buttons are popping up and that's good so now we'll hit save now that we have the controller all set up let's hop over to modes and this is where we're going to set up all of our switches and what modes we want to turn on with those switches so make sure you have hide unused modes turned off we're going to go to arm so this is going to be arming the Drone make sure this says Auto and all you got to do is flick the switch that you want to be the arm switch I use this one to arm the Drone so I'm going to click this you'll see that little yellow dot right here move when I click the Switch so I want it to be armed when the switch is clicked down so we'll move this so that the yellow line goes within this bracket so now we're going to do this with all of these other modes the other ones that I like to turn on I like having angle just as an emergency kind of thing so I'm gonna put that on this switch and this is a three position switch so you can see that yellow dot has three different positions so I'm going to use this downward position for angle mode now we'll go over to beeper definitely want a beeper click this so that's going to be our beeper switch adjust that and let's do flip over after crash add range I'm going to use this one so that will be flip over after crash so now we'll hide unused modes let's save and now let's just kind of flick through the switches and make sure that everything is adjusting how you want looks good all right so now that we're set with the modes tab let's hop down to the motors so when we're doing stuff with the motors we're going to need a battery plugged in when you're doing stuff on the motors tab when you're doing anything in bet flight and you have to plug a battery in take your props off I have had drones spin up spool up and if you had if I had props on I don't know what would have happened so make sure you have props off when you're doing this we're going to plug a battery in go down here and just make sure that motor one is motor one motor 2 is motor 2 and so on so by clicking this little box we're going to get these sliders to light up and now we can move each motor individually so motor one that's good motor one spins motor 2 motor 3 and motor 4 cool so since we're in this tab we can actually hit the master and that's going to spin up every single motor and what you can do when once you have these on is lightly touch each motor just kind of on the side and you can kind of feel which way the motor is spinning so motor one on this is actually spinning counterclockwise and it should be spinning clockwise motor two is spinning clockwise clockwise counterclockwise so since that's the case what we can do is actually just check this box and we're good hopping back down to the motors tab if you did have to change the the direction of a single motor say this one was spinning counterclockwise and the rest of them were spinning uh clockwise you could go into motor Direction I understand the risks and then use the wizard to kind of spin up each motor and you can click uh for it to change direction we don't have to do that we can just select motor directions reversed and we're good let's unplug the battery cuz we don't need that plugged in I'm going to go down to the video transmitter tab now this is actually very straightforward we're going to minimize this and on our web browser we're going to go to happy models site and they have this all laid out for us it's literally just a copy and paste from their site so copy and paste your choice of protocol VTX table into betaf flight CLI so they have an IRC protocol we selected smart audio so we're going to use a smart audio one but if you used um IRC Trent you would use this VTX table we're using smart audio so we're going to select this one so starting at save copy this entire thing we'll go back into betaf flight we're going to go down to CLI and we're just going to paste everything from their site right into here and now when we open up the video transmitter tab we should see all of these channels pre-loaded as well as the power levels so pretty much ready to go all you would do is select your band Channel and power whatever your goggles are on and you should be good I typically use raceband three and we'll do power 25 and that should be good to make sure that this works I'm going to plug a battery in and as you can see I don't have any video on there but as soon as I change this to raceband channel 325 the video transmitter is going to start putting out the signal that is on my goggles so I'm going to hit save and now we have video so we're all set in here we'll hop over to OSD you get could have done this before I usually do it after I have the video transmitter set up uh but this is pretty much just where you're going to set up the text and stats that you see in your goggles I'm not really going to go over this with you guys just because it's pretty straightforward you just select what you want usually I like to have battery cell voltage um alerts if you have a GPS you can do that all of these things you can kind of go through and select the ones that you like then once you're up here you can just click and drag and you can move this one over here you can move this on the very bottom you can have your goggles on while you're doing this and you'll be able to see the image of where they're actually sitting on your screen so just kind of play with it select the ones you want and once you're done hit save all right we're ready to take this thing out for a flight test the battery that I have on board here is a tattoo 1050 6s lipo I'm also going to be printing a GoPro mount for the front here so I'm also going to have a uh GoPro Hero 11 mini up front so you guys will be seeing footage from the GoPro as well as some footage from this camera which is basically what I'm seeing in the goggles while I'm flying so let's take this outside see how it [Music] flies [Music] [Music] there you go guys another freestyle budget build in the books this thing flies awesome without any major tuning you can always go back and play with the pids and rates if you want I mainly wanted this to be a drone that didn't require much betaf flight tuning since I know a lot of people use these budget build videos when they're just getting into the hobby regardless I'm happy with how the Drone flies on this current setup but you could always play with the tune if you wanted to eliminate some of that prop washer any wobbles or anything the speb flight controller on this thing in my opinion is still the best you can get for the price if you have an extra $10 definitely check out their new V4 flight controller it's very similar but it has a couple upgraded features otherwise it has the exact same pad layout as the V3 we used the V3 on last year's budget build but we really didn't take full advantage of that V3 stack since it was a fors build with these new t-motor 227s we're really able to take full advantage of that stack and have some fun on 6s I feel like I always get asked if you can upgrade to use DJI on a build like this and the answer is yes the only thing you would need to do is instead of buying the VTX and camera that I used in this video go get a run cam link with a camera like the WASP or maybe a polar Vista unit and install that stuff in place of what I used and you'll have a DJI already drone I'll include links down in the description to digital equipment that would work on this build dry weight of the Drone you're looking at 355 G when you add a GoPro Hero 11 mini you're looking at 489 489 G and then when you add a battery like this 1050 6s lipo you're looking at 670 G so if any of these parts sell out I'll have alternative links so you should be able to get this stuff on a number of different sites um if one doesn't have it in stock the last thing I have to cover uh every year I get asked if I can custom build people drones I wish I could but just straight up I do not have the time to do that I make videos like this so that you can learn how a drone like this goes together and when you inevitably crash you'll be able to repair it yourself I think a big part of fpv is crashing and just learning how to build these drones yourself so that's it for this year's budget build guys if you enjoyed this video make sure you subscribe to the channel for more fpv content and future build videos leave this video a like and if you have any questions about my 2023 freestyle fpv budget build leave a comment down below