Lecture Notes: Formulating with Hyaluronic Acid

Overview

• Hyaluronic acid is a luxurious ingredient for dry skin but can be expensive.
• The lecture provides guidance on using hyaluronic acid in formulations, common challenges, and solutions.

Key Points

Hyaluronic Acid Preparation

• Purchase hyaluronic acid as a dry white powder.
• To make it workable: create a stock solution with 1g hyaluronic acid powder, 98.5g distilled water, and 0.5g liquid germal plus.
• Allow to hydrate for 12-48 hours, depending on the molecular weight.

Formulation Strategies

Three Ingredient Serum

• Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid stock solution, distilled water, liquid germal plus.
• Concentration: 0.2% effective, affordable hyaluronic acid.
• Packaging: Dropper cap or orifice reducer for thin fluid.

Five Ingredient Serum

• New Ingredients: Powdered panthenol, soft xanthan gum.
• Benefits: Adds moisture, softens skin, more serum-like feel.

Eight Ingredient Serum

• Additional Ingredients: Hydrol (e.g., rose, aloe vera), allantoin, liquid hydrolyzed protein.
• Benefits: Moisturizes, soothes, improves skin cell turnover.

Hyaluronic Acid Weight Variations

• Different molecular weights affect hydration and viscosity.
• Low molecular weight: better skin penetration, elasticity.
• High molecular weight: better at reducing water loss.

Advanced Formulations

Niacinamide Serum

• New Ingredient: Niacinamide for brightening.
• Emulsifier: Soft xanthan gum.
• Benefits: Reduces acne, evens skin tone, enhances hydration.

Face Cream

• Features: Glycerol sterate, acai berry oil, settle alcohol, polyacrylate cross polymer.
• Benefits: Light texture, moisturizing, antioxidant-rich.

Body Products

Body Yogurt

• Description: Lightweight moisturizer, fast-absorbing, non-greasy.
• Hydration Tips: Use on damp skin, add silicone for non-tacky feel.

Exfoliating Serum

• Key Ingredients: Lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, allantoin.
• Important Notes: Requires precise pH adjustment, use sunscreen during use.

Tips and Tricks

• Combine different hyaluronic acid weights for optimal benefits.
• Use emulsifiers and thickeners to improve texture without increasing cost.
• Proper packaging enhances product longevity and usability.

Conclusion

• Hyaluronic acid is versatile for various skincare formulations.
• Understanding molecular weights and combination techniques is crucial for effective skincare products.