Notes on Dior Cosmetics: Evolution and Influence

Introduction

• Dior Cosmetics has gone through two bankruptcies and multiple scandals, yet remains a beloved brand.
• Started with the launch of Miss Dior perfume in 1947.

The Foundation of Dior

• Miss Dior Perfume:

  • Launched alongside Dior's debut fashion collection.
  • Symbolized the opulent, liberated woman post-WWII.
  • Named after Christian Dior's sister, who fought against Nazis.
  • Created to evoke the feeling of falling in love.

• Initial Perfume Collection:

  • Launched in 1948, included Miss Dior, L'Enfort, and Diorama.
  • These fragrances became significant profit generators.
  • Dior licensed production globally in 1949, contrary to industry norms.

Brand Positioning and Expansion

• Importance of Brand Positioning:

  • Key selling point for cosmetics, focusing on aspirations rather than just products.
  • Innovative for the time, moving away from formulaic makeup teaching.

• Cosmetic Product Expansion:

  • 1950: Limited range of lipsticks introduced.
  • 1953: Launch of Dior Rouge kit, which became hugely successful.

• After Christian Dior's death in 1957, the cosmetics line thrived while fashion struggled.

  • By 1960, lipstick range expanded significantly.

Innovations in Cosmetics

• 1962: First couture house to launch a nail color line.

• Stagnation in the 1960s:

  • Sales plateaued post-Dior's death and with changes in leadership.
  • Attempted revivals included Eau Sauvage, the first Dior fragrance for men in 1996.

• 1967: Appointment of Serge Lutens as Beauty Image Director.

  • Released a comprehensive collection in 1969, emphasizing creative imagery in marketing.

• Celebrity Endorsements and Marketing:

  • 1973: First use of a celebrity (Angelica Huston) in a cosmetics campaign.
  • Lutens’ aesthetic inspired by historical art movements.

Challenges and Changes in Leadership

• Bankruptcy of Parent Company:

  • Boussac declared bankruptcy in 1979, affecting Dior.

• 1980s: New leadership under the Willow Brothers struggled initially.

  • Taian continued Lutens' successful work but faced uphill battles.

• Bernard Arnault saved Dior, restructuring it into LVMH in 1985.

Revival and Modern Era

• Continued success with high-quality products and artistic imagery.

  • New ad campaigns in the 1980s and 1990s solidified brand identity.

• 2006: Francois Demarchi becomes perfume creator, focusing on celebrity endorsements.

  • Notable spokespersons include Natalie Portman and Jude Law.

Controversies and Their Impact

• Galliano Scandal (2011):

  • Racist comments led to significant brand damage.
  • Quick response helped mitigate long-term effects.

• Depp Controversy:

  • Maintained Depp as ambassador despite controversies, which actually increased sales.
  • Sauvage became best-selling perfume, with sales skyrocketing post-trial.

Current and Future Outlook

• Dior Cosmetics is viewed as a beloved heritage brand.

  • Expanding into the online space with innovations like virtual try-ons.
  • Potential for reintroducing creative heritage through social media.

• Suggestion to revive the Dior Art of Color book for social media campaigns.