Transcript for:
The Evolution and Variations of Banh Mi

How did banh mi go from $100 to $1 and back again? When the French colonists came to Vietnam, they  made sure that all of their necessary foods were   also readily available to them, which meant  importing them directly from France. One of   those staple dishes was a simple sandwich known  as Jambon-beurre, which translates to ham and   butter. Thus, a basic ham and butter sandwich  was an early source of inspiration for the banh   mi. But another important meal in the evolution  of the banh mi was the French charcuterie board. At its most basic level, a charcuterie board  contains bread, butter or spread, meat, and   cheese. In the 1800s, the French colonists were  also living it up with the addition of liver pate,   possibly foie gras, pickles, fresh vegetables,  and decadent spreads like jam, mustard, and   mayonnaise. But it was only served to the French  colonists, and it was only available at high-end   restaurants. It wasn't something that regular  Vietnamese citizens could afford. In a sense,   charcuterie can be likened to a  build-your-own sandwich station,   which is why it's easy to see how the  banh mi could take inspiration from it. The traditional Vietnamese banh mi  is pretty basic when you get down   to its core components. It has to have the  ever-present baguette as its holding element,   and it has to contain 50 percent wheat flour and  50 percent rice. Once you've got the bread down,   you'll need mayonnaise or butter; some type  of filling like pork, chicken, or tofu;   fresh vegetables, typically cucumbers, as well  as pickled daikon and carrots. Lastly, you'll   need a few condiments to add a bit more flavor,  like soy sauce, fish sauce, or Maggi seasoning. It's a simple, no-frills sandwich that  utilizes all five of the different tastes:   sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami.  It also combines different textures,   which is probably a good thing, because  as tasty as a slice of American cheese on   untoasted white bread is, you have  to admit that it's a bit boring. "I’m bored." "Wait!" There might be innumerable variations  of banh mi, but the one constant is   the bread. It's so important that "banh mi"  literally translates to "wheat bread." And   what's particularly special about this bread  is that it's not your typical French baguette. In the mid-1800s, the French decided that it  was their duty to help Vietnam grow from an   uncivilized and impoverished country to  one more in line with European cultural   ideals. Because Vietnam didn't have any of the  required French ingredients for proper meals,   colonists had theirs shipped over from the  motherland. And so, the French introduced   into Vietnamese cuisine items like flan,  pate, foie gras, coffee, and the baguette. As you can imagine, the two World Wars put  a bit of a damper on the importation and   exportation of consumables and goods, which  meant having to make do with what you had   and learning how to improvise. So the French  baguette underwent a bit of a transformation,   as it began using a 50/50 blend of wheat  and rice flour, as opposed to only wheat.   The tasty result of this new recipe  was a lighter, flakier, less dense,   and somewhat hollow Vietnamese-style baguette that  was perfect for the reinvention of the banh mi. "Un loaf de bread, s'il vous plaît. Merci!" When it's time to order the perfect banh  mi, you'll be presented with a whole host   of flavorful fillings and toppings.  But when you get right down to it,   there are just two main categories:  Northern style and Saigon style. Northern style banh mi contains just  a few ingredients, like butter, pate,   salt and pepper, and maybe a random  cucumber or a little cilantro. It's   basically just bread and spread with light  seasoning. The Northern style is probably   most akin to what the French colonists  were scarfing down back in the day. Saigon style is the more well-known of the two  banh mi styles and is most likely the version   that you're familiar with. It generally  contains one or two protein fillings,   fragrant herbs, fresh and pickled vegetables,  one or more spreads like mayonnaise and pate,   a spice element like sliced jalapeños  or other fiery chilis, and more. The banh mi is typically enjoyed for breakfast  or as a midday snack. That might sound a bit   odd to American eaters, considering that the  standard sandwich can usually incorporate pate   and pickles. But it's not uncommon to find  these ingredients incorporated in breakfast   around the world. For example, in Japan,  the typical morning meal can include fish,   miso soup, rice, and pickled vegetables,  while Australians enjoy a healthy bowl   of farro topped with a poached egg and pickled  veggies. And in Germanic and Baltic countries,   cold cuts and pate are a normal  part of the breakfast circuit. But there is an actual banh mi  specifically designated for breakfast,   and it's sort of the equivalent to a fried egg  on toast. This breakfast banh mi is a buttered   baguette with scrambled or sunny-side-up  eggs, onions, and a smidge of soy sauce.   Sounds tasty, so let's wake up and get cooking! "Waaaaaaaaaaake up! Wake up! Wake up! Wake up!" Just like any other sandwich, there's a  specific protocol that you must follow   in order to properly assemble a banh mi.  Of course, it depends on how much you're   going to be stuffing into that fluffy  little baguette, but nevertheless,   each ingredient has its own designated spot in  the lineup. This formula ultimately results in   a fully functional sandwich, meaning it won't  squish out the top, bottom, or sides. And   that's a good thing, because who wants to  ruin yet another shirt while eating lunch? "If you had another to change into,  you could nail the interview." It's essential that the bread is fresh and  warm. Once you slice it down the middle,   spread mayonnaise all the way to the edges  of the bread, then sprinkle it with the   Swiss condiment Maggi Seasoning. After that,  add your protein of choice, pate if desired,   and then top it off with crunchy pickled daikon  and carrot, sliced cucumber, fresh herbs like   cilantro, mint, or basil, and some jalapeño.  Then wrap it up or eat it right then and there! When it comes to ordering a banh mi, you can  choose from a whole multitude of different   protein fillings: pork, beef, chicken, fish,  tofu, fried egg, or even ice cream. Okay,   that last one isn't exactly a protein option,  but it just proves the point that whatever you   want on your banh mi, you can probably get it.  You might think that something like barbecued or   grilled pork or even pork belly would be the clear  winner overall, but you'd have to guess again. "Guess again." The most popular banh mi also has the closest  ties to the original French colonial sandwich.   It's called the Special Combo, or sometimes  the House Special. Whatever name it goes by,   all you need to know is that it's special. It's  a bit of a riff on a French charcuterie board,   which typically has bread, butter, pate, and cold  cuts. It's basically a deconstructed sandwich. Meanwhile, the Special Combo is pretty much a  cold-cut sandwich, filled with a combination of   any of the following: cold cuts, ham, head cheese,  rolled pork, salt-cured pork, or Vietnamese pork   sausage. And then of course, there's also the  pate, as well as the ever-present crunchy pickles,   fresh cucumber and cilantro, your seasoning  of choice, and a spice element if you want it. While sandwich toppings aren't  usually listed as main ingredients,   sometimes it's the little additions  that really bring it all together,   and it's no different with the banh mi. If you're  going to enjoy a traditional Vietnamese banh mi,   Maggi seasoning needs to be part of it. This  liquid all-in-one flavor enhancer was invented   in Switzerland in the 1800s by Swiss soup  entrepreneur Julius Maggi. It sort of looks   like soy sauce and lends an umami-esque  taste to whatever dish it's added to. It comes in powdered, cubed,  and liquid concentrate form,   and it's described by chefs as tasting like  celery, parsley, and fennel. It's a staple   item in Swiss and French kitchens, and it  made its way to Vietnam by way of the French. Besides Maggi seasoning, mayonnaise or butter are  the main spreads, which are necessary condiments   as they keep the bread moist. Pate is also a  traditional spreadable protein that harkens back   to the days when the French claimed this dish.  Furthermore, the addition of fresh cucumber,   scallion, and herbs give a bit of fresh crispness  to this sometimes salty sandwich. Pickled daikon   and carrot add a nice sour element, while  Laughing Cow Cheese can also play a part. There truly is a banh mi for every meal  of the day. If you're a dessert person,   then you're definitely going to want to try out  a sweet banh mi. It's basically the Vietnamese   version of an ice cream sandwich. Except  that it is, quite literally, a sandwich. The dessert banh mi is mainly eaten as a snack,  and it consists of three to four scoops of ice   cream topped with crushed peanuts and finished  with a healthy drizzle of sweet and decadent   condensed milk. And yes, it is all packed  into one of those light and crispy Vietnamese   baguettes. One giant ice cream sandwich will  put you back about 5,000 Vietnamese dongs,   but don't fret, as that's roughly only 21  American cents. That sounds like quite a   deal if you're used to paying four or five  dollars for a box of ice cream sandwiches. "I scream-a, you scream-a, we  all scream-a, for ice cream-a." On April 30, 1975, Saigon, the capital of South  Vietnam, fell under Northern Vietnamese rule,   thereby ending the Vietnam War. During the  conflict, an innumerable number of Vietnamese   refugees fled the country in search of better  lives, and with them came their distinct cuisine. Many Vietnamese people who traveled to the  United States ended up opening bakeries,   cafés, and restaurants, which focused on  providing a sense of comfort through food.   It was around this time that Americans  discovered the incredibly unique wonders   of the banh mi. But it wasn't until the  1980s that the banh mi truly took off. After the Fall of Saigon, a significant number of  Vietnamese immigrants headed to Silicon Valley to   find assembly line work in the tech industry. One  man decided to set up a food truck specializing in   banh mi in front of a computer manufacturing  plant. He knew that the delectable sandwich   would attract not only those from his homeland  but also his new American brethren. And he was   right. Soon afterwards, non-Vietnamese  workers and local college students were   flocking to the truck. And in 1983, the  man's sons started Lee Bros. Foodservices,   Inc, which is now the largest industrial  catering company in Northern California. The banh mi started off as somewhat of a  luxury item, with limited access to anyone   who wasn't French. It eventually evolved into  a quick grab n' go snack for the working man,   and it can now typically be purchased  for the equivalent of about one American   dollar. But while the banh mi is still  considered an everyday snack item,   Chef Peter Cuong Franklin, owner  of Anan Saigon in Ho Chi Minh City,   has converted this humble sandwich into one fit  for royalty that costs 100 American dollars. This decadent sandwich starts off with truffled  mayonnaise on bread that's grilled after   application. While it's nice and toasty, both  sides are spread with real French pate sourced   from a French expat who owns a charcuterie shop in  the restaurant's locale. Instead of grilled pork,   the chef adds sous vide pork that's also grilled  to get a nice smoke. After that comes some sautéed   foie gras, house-made pickles and cucumber,  and the herbs: cilantro, basil, and mint.   But wait: there's more! A side of sweet  potato fries, with caviar for dipping,   is also included. Plus, two glasses of  prosecco. And if the caviar sounds like   too much, you can substitute  it with truffled mayonnaise.