Coconote
AI notes
AI voice & video notes
Try for free
🌊
Key Concepts of Ocean Waves
Apr 25, 2025
Understanding Ocean Waves
Key Concepts
Wavelength (L)
: The distance between consecutive crests of a wave.
Wave Base
: Equal to half the wavelength; depth at which the orbital motion of waves feels friction with the ocean bottom.
Deep Water vs Shallow Water Waves
:
Deep Water Wave
: Occurs when the wave base is less than the depth of the water.
Shallow Water Wave
: Occurs when the wave base is greater than the depth of the water.
Example Problem
Given:
Wavelength (L) = 50 meters
Ocean Depth = 30 meters
Wave Base = 25 meters (half of wavelength)
Conclusion: The wave base (25 meters) is less than the ocean depth (30 meters), indicating a deep water wave.
Oceanography Wave Concepts
Wave Height
: Vertical distance from the wave trough to the wave crest.
Wavelength
: Horizontal distance between two consecutive wave crests.
Wave Period
: Time between two successive wave crests.
Typical wave periods: 12-15 seconds in Southern California.
Graph Analysis
Wave Period, Wavelength, and Wave Speed Relationship
:
Longer wave periods correlate with longer wavelengths and faster speeds.
Graphs can help determine wave speed and wavelength based on wave period measurements.
Wave Dispersion
:
Processes by which waves separate according to speed, period, and wavelength as they travel.
Results in uniform ocean swells.
Wave Base and Interaction with Bottom
Wave Base Calculation
: Depth at which waves start feeling bottom friction equals half the wavelength.
Changes in Shallow Water
:
Wave velocity and wavelength decrease as waves move into shallower water.
Wave height increases as energy is pushed upward.
Wave period remains constant despite changes in velocity and wavelength.
Practical Exercise
Graph Interpretation
:
Relating wind speed to wavelength formation.
Example: A 150-meter wavelength is formed by 42 knots wind.
Important Figures
Familiarize yourself with graphs showing relationships between wave attributes and wind conditions.
Additional Study
Review provided worksheet and lecture material.
Anticipate similar questions on exams concerning wave dynamics and characteristics.
📄
Full transcript