The Physics of Surfing

Introduction

• Surfing involves complex physics.
• Surfers and their boards utilize physics to stay afloat and ride waves.

Buoyancy and Floating

• The surfboard displaces water, creating a buoyant force equal to the weight of the displaced water.
• This buoyant force allows surfers to stay afloat.

Formation of Ocean Waves

• Ocean waves are a transfer of energy.
• Wind accelerates water particles, forming ripples that grow into waves.
• Gravity acts on these waves to try to restore the ocean's flat surface.
• Energy is propagated through water as particles push and pull on neighboring particles.

Behavior of Waves Near Shore

• Near the shore, waves are concentrated, and energy is focused near the surface due to the shallower seafloor.
• Smooth shorelines refract waves to become parallel to shore.

Catching a Wave

• Surfers pivot their boards to match the wave's direction and speed.
• The board's angle creates dynamic pressure, lifting the surfer and board out of the water.
• Increased momentum stabilizes the surfer, allowing them to stand and surf.

Riding the Wave

• Surfboard fins help alter speed and direction.
• The wave's crest experiences the greatest acceleration and forms curls or jets as it breaks.
• Occasionally forms a barrel, where the wave completely encloses water.
• Riding a barrel is a unique and magical experience.

Variability of Beaches

• Some beaches have underwater canyons or rock formations that focus wave energy into specific spots.
• Famous surf spots: Nazare, Portugal & Mavericks, California produce massive waves.
• Waves can travel long distances, e.g., from New Zealand to California.

Conclusion

• Surfing is influenced by weather patterns, geology, and fluid mechanics.
• Surfing waves are a visible part of the ongoing energy oscillation shaping the universe.