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Exploring Niacinamide in Skincare Science

Mar 22, 2025

Lecture on Niacinamide in Skincare

Introduction

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3 derivative) is prevalent in skincare.
  • Many frustrated by lack of results.
  • Misunderstandings on its usage.

What is Niacinamide?

  • Known as a jack of all trades, master of none.
  • Helps with various skin conditions: aging, acne, skin barrier health.
  • Not a hero ingredient; it's a supporting actor.

Common Issues with Niacinamide

  • Present in many skincare products.
  • Overuse can cause irritation.
  • Effective concentration: Less than 5%, preferably 2%.
  • High concentrations (>10%) are often unnecessary and can cause irritation.

Form and Efficacy

  • Stable ingredient, effective in various product forms (serum, cream, etc.).
  • Leave-on products more effective than rinse-off ones.
  • Does not need a specific product form to be effective.

Using Niacinamide in Skincare Routine

  • Dark Spots: Niacinamide helps minimally. Requires a comprehensive regimen targeting all steps of pigmentation.

    • Retinoids as primary treatment.
    • Combine with ingredients like kojic acid, tranexamic acid, vitamin C, etc.
    • Prescription options like Truma.
  • Oil Control: Niacinamide helps regulate oil production.

    • Best paired with salicylic acid.
    • Difficult to control oil without prescription treatments.
  • Acne: Niacinamide alone is insufficient.

    • Best paired with retinoids like adapalene.
    • Consider azelaic acid if pregnant.
  • Skin Barrier: Niacinamide supports barrier health.

    • Pair with ceramides for enhanced effect.
  • Redness: Limited options over the counter; pair niacinamide with azelaic acid.

  • Pores: Combine with salicylic acid or retinol for structural changes.

  • Antioxidant Role: Functions uniquely through NADPH regeneration.

    • Pair with vitamin C or copper peptides for enhanced antioxidant benefits.

Additional Considerations

  • Skincare is highly personalized.
  • Results vary based on individual skin conditions and complete routines.
  • Visiting a dermatologist can be helpful for persistent issues.

Conclusion

  • Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient but should be strategically paired for best results.
  • Consider skin type and specific concerns when integrating into routine.
  • Seek professional advice if necessary.