[Music] [Music] niacinamide this ingredient has found itself in every skincare product and rightfully so a lot of people are frustrated because they're not seeing results with this ingredient is it because ninite is a scam my name is Dr Shaw I'm Dr Maxfield welcome back to our Channel Dr Le we talk about all things skincare and dermatology and in this video we're going to be talking about why you may not be seeing results with NI cide despite the fact that you hear every influencer talking about this ingredient we're going to talk about how to use it in your routine and we're specifically going to talk about what ingredients you need to pair with your niacinamide for specific conditions like dark dark spots like acne like oily skin like large pores like redness so that you can actually see the results that you're trying to achieve right and it's not just influencers that are talking about it I as a dermatologist have talked about this for years but there seems to be some misunderstandings about how you need to be using it how I need to be using it so we're going to clear that up niacinamide plus for your skin here we go here we go so what is niacinamide nide is a derivative of the vitamin B3 we have an entire video ninite that you can go back and watch this was before we even had a real camera to shoot with uh so you can see how far the video production has come in this video but the knowledge in that video is exactly the same so it's still valuable for people to go back and watch but it's a type of vitamin and it does so many things for the skin but we've said in the past the niacinamide is the jack of all trades it's actually one of Dr Maxwell's favorite ingredients but it's the master of none and so when you see an niacinamide in an ingredient list a lot of people think oh this is going to do all the things that everyone says it does shrink pores help with fine lines and wrinkles help with skin sess help with dark spots and it does help but it's definitely not the hero ingredient right and this is something we have I feel like almost belabored over the period of years is like this is supporting ingredient and I love the phrase like Jackall trades master of none because that is exactly where this lives and this is exactly why it is a top tier supporting actor in terms of how you can use it in your skincare because it's probably going to be helpful for most people it covers aging changes acne changes even Skin Barrier Health changes and that combination is extremely rare not even I would dare say not even something like a retinoid can boast all of the changes as completely as nice cinemod but conversely a retinoid falls into the category like Tron this is Jack of all trades maybe master of one maybe master of two um but niacinimide does not fill that role on the flip side because we see niacinamide now in every single product it's in your cleanser it's in your moisturizer it's in your sunscreen it's also in your treatments and now you have just tons of products with tons of niacinamide in it we're actually seeing groups of people who are saying that they can't Toler products with nicomide this is a function of it just being everywhere anytime you put an ingredient in everything you start to see the select group of people that can't tolerate that and so invariably in the comments we'll see that some people just cannot tolerate an iside at all yeah some people say you're irritates their skin and that's reasonable for some people it will for multiple reasons a derivative of ninine actually the primary form of n ninite is called niin and when taken by mouth or even topically can cause flushing so this ingredient isn't perfect and it also lends into the idea of how much should you use because perhaps you're thinking oh it's in all my products but is it enough and you see a bottle on the shelf that says 20% niacinamide 15% niacinamide you're thinking oh of course that's where I need to be going to get the benefits and uh this is actually not true so for niia cide Even in our original video way back in the day we found that the body of evidence supports concentrations of less than 5% even less than 4% even as low as 2% of having benefits on the skin and the irritation threshold does increase with concentration so if you get above 10% probably unnecessary if you get above 15% probably completely unnecessary and you will still get benefits again concentrations lower than 5% right absolutely so when we had look back at all the literature everything that we were saying about nicomide being great was done in those lower concentrations so it doesn't mean that you need more Concentra it doesn't necessarily mean that if you do 10 15 20% it's going to cause problem in your skin so if you're using a product with 20% iite I'm not saying to stop that product but just so for people to know you don't need more to see the results cuz all those studies were done in that 5% or less concentration next question is does it matter what type of product or an nicomide is in so if it's in a sunscreen is it going to have the same effect if it's in a Serum is it going to have the same effect does it need to be a certain form of niacinamide and the answer is no it's an incredibly stable ingredient it will penetrate into the skin regardless less of what form it comes in so even if you're sunscreen for example you're using the Ala MD UV clear which notoriously has 5% nicomide you don't need to necessarily use 5% nicomide in a serum to complement that when you already have that in your sunscreen it's going to work regardless and that's why you see it in a lot of skincare products because unlike an ingredient like vitamin C which is extremely finicky and hard to work with now iite is actually very easy to play with and so you find in a lot of ingredients and a lot of products and you don't need to find a separate Serum with that ingredient in it right and the only way i' would split this is probably like rinse off versus leave on so the L Ro POS blue Taran foaming cleanser has niacinamide in it I would not allow I don't think that your rinse off niacinamide is complete and would have an effect enough to replace niacinamide in any of your leave on steps so if you're doing it in your cleanser I would still say you might benefit from a leave on product and again that could be in a toner SL Essence SL serum SL lotion SLC cream/ ointment SL sunscreen one of those D derivations of ninite would be sufficient ninite ointment would be an interesting I I don't even know if it exist I like the concept maybe we could do something with that all right so the next question is how are you actually going to use this in routine to see results because we've said it's a great ingredient but we say that it's not uh uh the master it's not the leader it's not the hero of the show so how do you get this in your routine so that you get the benefits of niacinamide but you also achieve the results that you're looking for and this is one of the frustrating things about skincare is that you have a lot of people who are talking about skincare online and they talk about a product that they love and they say that this product has helped them a lot but then you wonder why is this product not helped me a lot and everybody's starting at a different place everybody has different skin problems that they're trying to address so if we look back at this video she has pretty pronounced hyperpigmentation and dark spots on her skin and she's going to need something that's a little bit more of a heavy hitter in fact she's going to need an entire routine designed around this skin issues so that she can see results so just having niacinamide in one product that an influencer recommended that was in beautiful packaging is not the solution for a skin issue like this now if she had some maybe wanted some mild increase in brightness or she had some minor discolor then maybe niacinamide can do the lifting there but if somebody has dark spots like this you really need to dive in and have an entire routine built around it so dark spots being created by pigment production then being transferred from the pigment making cells to your skin cells and then being deposited and held on to you by your skin cells you need to address all of those steps and ninite although it addresses some doesn't address all and even the ones it does address it doesn't address extremely strongly so you can add multiple different ingredients to your dark spot routine I would always start with your retinoid this is one of your master ingredients and it is going to remove the pigment production is going to decrease pigment production I'm sorry it's going to remove the existing pigment decrease pigment production it's going to do all the things decrease transfer and you can also add in multiple other ingredients that are going to block pigment production there's a laundry list of these and you can pick like coic acid tranic Amic acid uh we talked about this por soy um vitamin C well I don't know what my mind is going I know I usually can list like 10 what am I missing Al our buttin here we go so we were going to put up our chart that we made in our previous dark spot video about how to treat dark spots and the different steps that each ingredient targets so you have your tyrosinase Inhibitors that's the creation of pigment you have to block that step if you want to prevent new new dark spots from forming now cinnamide helps a little bit here but there are some other better ingredients and you probably want more than one tyrosinase inhibitor the step two the transfer of pigment through the melanosomes you want to block that as well there's few ingredients that do this ninite helps a bit here but then finally you have to remove that existing pigment with niacinamide actually has no help here and this is where you need your exfoliating acids and your retinol so if you look at this chart you want to mix and match ingredients so that you can come up with a full routine that's blocking all three steps and that you'll actually see results here one of the best products for this is a prescription product called truma which is a combination of hydroquinone which is the tyrosinase inhibitor troin which removes pigment and is a tyrosinase inhibitor and is a melanosome transfer inhibitor and it also has a steroid that helps with some of the inflammation that occurs with those two ingredients and so it really knocks down all three steps we also have remedy for dark spots of course I love this product because it also blocks all three steps it's my hero product and people love this and we see amazing results on our website with this and so you really want to Target all three steps and not just hone in on that nice cinnamide but finally you definitely need a tinted sunscreen to complement your routine because no matter what steps forward you make with blocking all these steps if you're not preventing new dark spots from forming by triggering those melanocytes and you're not going to see any results so you need to wear a tinted sunscreen to block visible light UVA and UVB light and finally if these dark spots are from acne if you're not treating the underlying acne you're going to continue to see new dark spots forming and so if you do those things you will see results eventually with time and if none of those things are working then definitely go see a dermatologist so as you can tell dark spots can be tricky or cumbersome at best to treat but it always takes a whole team to really have any sort of meaningful result so that's dark spots and just organizing this here we have your supporting ingredient nide and then you have hero ingredients like exfoliating acids and retinoids now moving on to oil control we have our supporting ingredient again ni cinem now what hero ingredient would you want to pair this with right so oil control don't expect massive results when it comes to oil control and nicomide or really with anything at all unless you're taking oral vitamin A Accutane oil control is going to be very difficult to achieve for somebody who's really really oily now in that case niacinamide is helping a little bit and there are good studies that show that it helps to regulate oil production I would pair it with salicylic acid likely I think salicylic acid because it's the only lipophilic acid it's able to get deep into your pores and it is phenomenally good at removing oil I see this if I put salicylic acid in my hair I see this I put out salicylic acid in my T-Zone I think it's probably the most effective at removing oil and so probably those ingredients together which actually pair very well together are probably the best for oil control nice okay so this is kind of like a more like hero sidekick kind of thing I'm kind of feel every time I picture this in my brain like nide has the little cape and then retinoids or in this case alyc acid has the big Cape but uh anyway next up next up so that was what we control next up is acne so nice cide does have the claim that it can help with acne and this is a unique feature not a lot of ingredients can actually boast this but again little Cape nice cide big Cape here I mean how could it not be troan it's or dapping if it's over the counter but again is is R noise going to be the answer for everything to par with no we said salicylic acid I suppose and then with dark spots there was a Salo of ingredients I suppose you could pair retinol is going to is is the hero of the show and the Jack of all traits right in in many ways but I think with with acne yeah it would be a massive mistake in my opinion to just use niacinamide alone and I think I see this very very often especially in young people who come in my office they have a lot of products with niacinamide and they're like why am I not getting better everybody says that ninite is the ingredient to treat acne I think it's a great ingredient to have like in a moisturizer for somebody who has acne or is acne prone that being said I almost look at it as a nonstarter when it or a non consideration I suppose in the treatment of acne in many ways so I would say pair it with adap adap there is that's that's your over the counter recomendation and this this is interesting too because this is like the in office perspective like the clinician perspective versus the general public perspective can n help acne yes if you were limiting yourself to over the counter options would you pick acne would you pick nicomide to help through acne yes when you walk into a dermatologist office and you're like I'm using nicomide for my acne that's something they never would have considered to even introduce to you because prescription in the prescription World there are just so many m much more effective options so that's again something you'll hear more on the social conversation than you would in the office it goes one step further here because you know I know we're trying to do one in one pairing in this situation dly nide great combination if you're going to pair it with something I also think AIC acid paired with nicomide is another good option for the right person like let's say for example someone is pregnant or someone is acne with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation I think aik acid plus N camide is a lethal combination there so that's the okay that's the key yet here I was wondering I was going to interject and say maybe we should just make like pregnant women like their own category with niacinamide because it is it is like it isn't if you're pregnant your ingredient options can be so limiting then you have like niacinamide and AIC acid that is lethal like that that's for your dark spots that's for your skin that's for your acne like I'm with you that is a killer combination for someone who is pregnant and can't use much else yeah you know it's interesting uh because pregnancy is not a skin condition so so but we've thought about this because you a lot we get a lot of comments like you need to come out with a remedy for pregnancy and I'm like that's probably not the right serology it's like what skin conditions do we see during pregnancy and then how do we come out with a product that is safe during pregnancy but is able to go after those conditions and then what would you name that product maybe leave in the comments what we would call a remedy for pregnancy without making it sound like it's like a solution for pregnancy do you know what I mean um that being said I don't know I think that you know the the conditions that you see during pregnancy are quite unique but as like acid and N Cinema is a great pregnancy ingredient combination for really a lot of issues okay yeah so there's pregnancy in its own category whether or not it even deserve to be in this as an item I'm not sure but it's a really good mention I guess next we'll go I'll go with barrier then uh so niacinamide is unique again in that it has aging benefits and it can be helpful for the Skin Barrier as Dr sha mentioned this from anecdote a lot of people don't experience this they do get some irritation from it but generally the studies show that it can be helpful for the Skin Barrier which means it's more resilient it's more healthy protection moisture by reducing transepidermal water loss it just is healthier so oh I think I know well I know what you to do so if you're going to pair again the supporter ni cide I don't know what are you doing for fa ni cinnamide with a key Cornerstone ingredient for Your Skin Barrier what would it be camid that was yeah that's what I was going to say a glucan something like that yeah I was going to go ceramides I think the lipids of ceramides uh that are the mortar between the bricks of your skin cells that really just create a very healthy barrier I think that would compliment nice and I very very nicely here absolutely again ni camide strong strong barrier ingredient great when paired with something like a camid and there's probably a bunch of other ones you could pair with this in terms of barrier but if you had to go with one agree s mind's probably be the strongest Contender next up I would say let's talk about redness because ni camide is also touted to help with redness so post-inflammatory arthema if you have this if you have rosacea you know it's it's often found in rosacea products what would you pair ni cinnamide with to really amplify its redness capabilities over the counter the options are so limited for red this to begin with I would probably go back to AIC acid for this one prescription wise it's a no-brainer AIC acid product you like over the C definitely it's the niche Beauty Labs or whatever their other brand name is transparent Labs I actually like this brand a lot it's called the product is called aid aid it's a 15% AIC acid product there are other AIC acid products in the US that may be a little bit more accessible than this product is so the ordinary has one atorium has one was available at Target and you have the this one that you can order online this one I really like a lot though and I've used it quite a bit myself yeah it's it's Leaps and Bounds ahead of any other AIC acid I've ever tried over the counter and from an aesthetic standpoint prescription too right and with redness redness is tough I always say over the counter redness is very difficult you're almost better off pairing it with a Green Tinted sunscreen or a Green Tinted makeup to just hide the redness while the ni cinnamide does its work and the redness kind of heals from the inside but a lot of the redness products are going to fall short and so you're often times going to need to seek out prescription options and another difficult condition to treat or get results from are is pores are pores it's plural and it can be very refractory to over-the-counter topical treatments structurally need to address the changes and so I'm kind of like salicylic acid could live here by removing oil you decrease the appearance of pores but I'm like between salicylic acid and an aggressive exfoliator like address the structural part more yeah salic acid or retinol would probably be my best option here for pores and our remedy for pores deid we put Sal acid retinol and niacinamide in one product but if I had to pick one to pair it with I would say probably retinol would have the most sustained results over time on pores fair enough yes salic acid oil for sure but then when it comes to actual pore minute minimizing the appearance I would say retinol would probably have the best benefit that's fair yeah retinol again addressing the skin cell turnover like an exfoliator might helping with the oil control fair fair complimentary benefits so that's your pair for pores and I think the last category of benefits is going to be its function as an antioxidant it does this in kind of a unique way through the Regeneration of nadph I once built this giant metabolism uh molecular chart I actually was big into like the biochemistry and nutrition bionutrition in college so I built this huge chart yes it was an assignment yes I crushed it but I reference back to this every single year of my life and NAD as an antioxidant has a role here which antioxidant would you pair it with though that's tough you know there's some questions about the stability of niacinamide and vitamin C together they've been debunked because the conditions under which they mix these two ingredients to show that they're not stable probably not real condition so you do see a lot of products formulated with both ni camide and vitamin C when you're thinking about vitamin C as the prototypical antioxidant you almost feel like they should be paired together so I would say that but because vitamin C doesn't always tolerate well it doesn't work well with everyone's skin I would also say niacinamide copper peptides ooh copper pep oh that's an interesting combination nide copper okay I like that I like that I like that I have a strong affinity for ferulic and Resveratrol but I love the copper peptides nicomide combo that's just such a broad broad benefit range those two those two together the benefits are not only antioxidant but just so broad so yeah that's Stellar all right so that pretty much wraps up how you can use ni cite in your routine to actually see some really good results and I think it's because we've hyped up ni camide so much over the past few years and many others have as well that now everyone feels like they need it but then they're not happy with the results that they get with it so everyone's skin is different you know I know that in this video that we're reacting to there you know she's struggling with some hyperpigmentation and dark spots frustrating one of the most frustrating conditions and so often times you do have to try a bunch of different things before you finally see results and even and sometimes just going into the Dermatology office getting either a prescription treatment chemical peels Micron needling these things help as well and so it's not all one siiz fits all and there's usually not one solution to solve every problem yep and that's always the case it's very personalized it's always a bit of a journey and that's why this Dynamic relationship not only with you and your skin but sometimes you your skin your dermatologist in your skin can be extremely valuable but hopefully this equips you with some knowledge so that you can take action and help your skin with whatever one of the skin concerns that you have thank you so much for tuning in please like comment and subscribe and we'll see you in the next video see you next time