welcome back to my bathroom! and welcome to episode 2 of the hair cutting Series today we're going to be breaking down lines sections and angles within hair cutting if you're in school it's on page 361 in this Milady book if you're in a different book or not even in school doesn't matter I have free pintables for all of these episodes on my website it's in the description box it's also right here all right and if we haven't met yet my name is Brittnee I'm a cosmetology instructor so yeah all haircuts are made up of lines sections and angles a line is a line a thin continuous Mark so when we cut hair we make a line or a guide like this this is a horizontal line when I'm cutting for most of the time but especially in the beginning of hair cutting your finger Position will always match your line to create the guide so my line is horizontal so my finger position is also horizontal it's also showing me where my cutting position is the line is horizontal fingers are horizontal so I'm cutting horizontal I'm going to be cutting right here horizontal horizontal horizontal to create my first line or guide when we're cutting the lines can either be straight lines like this or they can be curved lines the first line we just talked about but it's horizontal parallel to the Horizon looks like this here's the sun on the sunset Horizon horizontal horizontal lines and hair cutting they build weight think of a blunt haircut at one length I'm going to comb this down and this is not how you would cut by the ear but just for demonstration purposes I'm going to comb this down my finger position is horizontal so my Shear position is horizontal as well and I'm going to cut forgive me this may not be super straight because I'm sitting down so this is a lot of weight horizontal lines are great for people like me who have very thin fine hair cut it very straight and Sleek to create an illusion of volume weight vertical lines are straight up and down they are going to remove weight 8 vertical line do you see this right here this is a bulk of weight so I'm going to cut it vertically pull it out this is my guide ping cutting a straight line playing connect the dots don't cut past my second knuckle so I have to constantly re-comb ping ping now when I release this I've created a layer seat diagonal lines are in between vertical and horizontal lines so everything in here is a diagonal line diagonal lines create fullness and they blend short to Long lengths they can be slanted or sloping depending on what haircut you're doing does get a little tricky when we talk about diagonal lines we're talking about diagonal forward or diagonal back so diagonal forward so it's a diagonal line she's not the cleanest line she is a synthetic blend so it's not going to look super clean but we do want to aim for clean lines parting sectioning when cutting hair not only does it visually look better but it's going to help you make sure everything's constantly consistently I mean consistent constantly consistently even so this is a diagonal forward line Looks like this our lines tell us where our fingers are angled so this is diagonal so when I cut they're also going to be diagonal and I'm going to cut this for demonstration purposes but this is not the correct way to do it and the amount of hair is too much but just for demonstration purposes we're cutting so see how my shears match this diagonal forward pushes hair forward so think of the angled bob you're using diagonal lines but they're going forward creates movement towards the face diagonal forward movement towards the face now we're going to talk about diagonal back lines it's the opposite of this so instead of going forward you're going back diagonal back this creates movement away from the face back away so again diagonal line means my finger position is also going to match that diagonal don't do this that's a horizontal line air diagonal shears are diagonal diagonal back diagonal back diagonal back cutting and you're in control of this the steeper or more movement your fingers have more dramatic your haircut is so this diagonal back line is the complete opposite of the other one it's short to Long very popular right now in the mullet cut the wolf cut so you can see the difference in lines they're both diagonal lines one is forward one is back two completely different haircuts when are you going to use them is going to go back to when you're having the consultation with your client and she shows you the picture explains it whatever she's doing but like I said in the first episode you also have to be up front and be aware and be honest with your client that if she has a head the size of Kentucky she doesn't need this haircut because it's going to show off her head perhaps she could use this haircut diagonal forward to kind of chisel in at the cheeks and slam her face down hopefully this is making sense now when we're talking about diagonal lines we can add in a technique called beveling this is a one length haircut a lot of times we think of a one length as a square wear formed cut but one length can be three shapes it can be a square it can be a circle which is like a bowl cut shaped in a circle but everything is one length or it can be this a triangle when you do this haircut it looks like this a triangle but everything is one length So within this cut if you again go vertically do this for demonstration again this is not technical we're going to go vertically and we're going to cut a diagonal line see this is diagonal diagonal and we cut just like we did a little bit ago like this when we release the beast we have long going into short which is creating a 45 stacked haircut also called beveling now we're going to get into sectioning you can't just cut the hair like this without any sort of road map going on this would be chaotic I am a fan of chaos but we do need to try to make it clean I'm going to do your standard four sections so you comb the hair back oh girl this is standard sectioning and a lot of hair color basic haircuts comb everything back we're going to divide the head the nose is a good reference point putting the finger where I want it to end the middle of the nape the back of the neck the comb here tippy top flat against the head you're going to get a clean section all right now you have two you need to make four Apex top of the head where the comb is resting finger where I want it to land boom cone meets the finger clean line if your client has super long hair when you're dividing it take a piece from the back wrap it around this is up clip it so this is your standard four sections also will be called four quads pretty common especially when doing your state board practical exam sections are just big chunks of the hair it's how you start a color how you start a haircut so for example to do a square one length or a zero elevated zero elevation haircut you're going to start with four sections but you can't just cut the hair in this big section that's way too much hair so you further dissect dissect I just took my retainer out sorry so my s's are s and so you further dissect this section and make it into another section which is called a sub section so when you hear someone say make a horizontal subsection in the back back left quad this is what they mean left quad in the back horizontal subsection these are my two sections right and left I'm being told to make a horizontal subsection at the nape in the back left quad so here's this so subsection is just the sections baby the line that we use to create this subsection is called the part line sections are made up of curved and straight lines this is a straight line an example of a curved line which is another very common sectioning is called The Horseshoe horse horse shoe sectioning section whoa I'm messing it up today the Horseshoe parting is literally a horseshoe for you so on the side of the head it looks like this all of this needs to be in a big section how you find your horseshoe parting is at the temple area here where the head is changing but remember everyone's head shape is different so if you need to find the four corner this is one flip the comb balancing at the Apex where it hangs down is two comb starts here I'm gonna meet the comb to the finger and I'm gonna do it on the other side you can see it's a horse shoe parting think of a typical men's haircut long on the top short on the sides what's in the Horseshoe sectioning is what is typically going to be longer and this is what typically is going to be shorter and here at the parietal Ridge that's your blending blending Zone where you need to 45 it so when you hear someone say make a horseshoe section this is what they're talking about the next section is called a pivoting section these can be anywhere on the head here's the back of the Horseshoe party a pivoting section also called a pie shape sectioning is literally just a triangle pivoting it will look similar to this just a triangle for me I use them most commonly on the crown area where all the whirls and Twirls reside especially when doing foiling a lot of people foil diagonal up here but I like to make a pivot section with diagonal subsections this section within the section and do foils diagonal diagonal diagonal diagonal vertical diagonal diagonal diagonal so when the highlights grow out it has a better Flow versus that line of demarcation so a triangle section is a pivoting section we can go ahead and just cut that real quick gonna pull it straight out where the hair lives cut it vertically when we release it from this pivoting section you can see we've got a graduation 45 degree layer creates a nice look on the side profile if you can see that a profile section all I have is the back sorry I don't have the front but it looks the same in the front as it does the back is just two big sections a profile so think of a mug shot your profile shot so this is the back of the head the profile sectioning you'll have one and you'll have two that's a bad two so profile is really easy splitting the head in half taking the middle all the way back to the nape dividing the head into two big sections which you will again break down into smaller sections called subsections one and two of the profile sectioning just dividing the head into profile a radial section is the opposite here's the Apex can you see that Apex we're going to to divide it in half this way it's going the exact opposite way like a headband radial rainbow so when you combine a radial section with a profile section you're going to get your standard four sectionings or four quads one two three four okay I know that's a lot of information and some of it yes does seem very obvious like a horizontal line when I was in Beauty School this was one of the hardest chapters for me to understand I am dyslexic so not only reading this book presents a huge challenge but everything in my world is backwards a horizontal forward is really a horizontal back to me I guess what I'm trying to say is even though it may be completely obvious to you it may really help someone like me moving on will be on episode three which is the fun part one of my favorite Parts we'll be getting into guidelines angles I'm going to demonstrate straight a lot of different cuts so you can see them I don't know if we're gonna do that next week I also have another series I'm working on it's just for fun though it's just for fun so I don't it's not educational you can catch that is it this side or this side I don't know don't forget that there is a free printable guide worksheet it's not a worksheet it's guide printable screenshot it do whatever you want to it on my website it's free right here in the description box so you can check that out so there's also one from last week if you missed it but until then I will see you next time for something cool something cool thank you thank you