welcome back to my video series where i take you through every single option in betaflight 4.3 configurator from start to finish so you know what the options do and hopefully how to configure them and in this video we're going to talk about the pid tuning tab if that's what you're here for great if you are looking for a kind of a just a walk through tutorial of betaflight from start to finish i've got a playlist linked down in the video description and you can go back to playlist number one and sort of work your way through but if you're here for the pin tuning tab let's do it and i will um okay i i can do this i will connect and i will click on the tuning tab oh my god there's a lot of options there's a lot of options in the pit tuning tab you guys here is why i've been putting off this video for so long uh because pin tuning the shortest pin tuning tutorial i've ever done is like 40 45 minutes and that was just kind of like a baby hold your hand here are the steps don't worry too much about the details tutorial a complete course on pin tuning a quadcopter could be hours long and i don't want to do that so what i want to do here is talk about what we're seeing in the in the pin tuning tab go through all the options and kind of just plant the seeds in your mind of what these options do and what you're looking at and then when you go somewhere else eventually and take a pid tuning class and start learning about pid tuning you'll have like oh anti-gravity what is that well you'll you'll have seen it before and you'll have some idea what it does but i want to be really clear at the front of this video i'm not going to teach you to pid tune in this video this is not that video this is a video about the configurator and what it is all right let's do it and the first thing i want to look at is the profile pull down and the rate profile pull down so betaflight has three pid profiles and it's a little confusing that they just say profile there but those are the pid profiles and then it has six rate profiles the pid profile and the rate profile are groups of settings that you can quickly change between so for example for the pid profiles what's stored in the pid profile is everything that you see here all the settings that you see here so if i make a change here to one of these settings i don't know whatever and then i hit save down in the lower right that's saved as pid profile 1 which is the profile i currently have selected and then if i go to profile 2 it's back however profile two was the last time i saved it so i've been playing with that one too apparently and if i change back oop it's grayed out the reason it's grayed out right now is because i changed something but i haven't saved it yet we can work around that by hitting the refresh button to reload the settings from the quad so if i change back to profile one here's profile one exactly how i had it and the rate profile stores the stuff here in the raid profile settings which we will get to a little bit later in the video so you've got three pid profiles and six rate profiles that are collections of settings now you might be thinking right now well that's cool and all but i'm not going to plug my quadcopter into betaflight configurator to change the profile you don't have to so the pid profiles and the rate profile you can change in your on-screen display in the menu in the goggles and there are other ways to change them as well the for example the pid profile can be set to automatically select based on the battery voltage you plug in because one of the common reasons you want to change your pins is if you have a single quadcopter that runs on let's say both 3s batteries and 4s batteries and you want different pits depending on the battery you've plugged in the pid profile can auto select and i'll show you how to do that later in the video with rate profile i've got a tutorial talking about how to use in-flight adjustments to change the rate profile based on the uh based on a switch or knob on your controller so there are various ways that you can change the pid profile and rate profile while you're in the field without having to plug in the configurator moving over here to the right we've got the copy profile button and what that will do is copy the settings from the current profile which in this case is profile one to any of the other two profiles so if you wanna maybe you wanna play with some changes but you don't wanna risk losing like your good safe perfect pid tune that you know you like so you copy profile 1 over to profile 2 then you switch over to profile 2 and then you make all your changes and you play with your settings but if you like screw it up or you hate the result you just hit the refresh button there we just go back to profile number one and everything is back how it was a copyright profile button does the same thing for the rate profiles we just copy it to another rate profile there is the reset profile button and that will reset the pid profile but you'll notice there isn't any reset rate profile button and i guess if you want to reset the rate profile what you need to do is like probably you're not using rate profile six you just didn't get down there so you're just going to copyright profile and you're going to copyright profile 6 over to rate profile 1 and that'll reset it there's other ways you could reset a rate profile by going into this the cli tab but that's probably roughly how i'd do it if i go to the presets tab and select rates preset is there uh oh there is default rates okay so that would be another way to reset the rates is to go to the presets tab and choose the default rates profile and that will reset uh just the current rate profile i believe then finally we've got the show all pids button and this is not as interesting as you might think it is all it does is look look right down here in the lower left when i hit show all pids the magne the compass pit gain which turns most people aren't even using a compass and if you are using a compass you probably don't need to mess with this but that's why they hide it next we come to the pid gains the proportional integral derivative and then there's another one feed forward pid and feed forward gains and if you want to know what a pid controller is and how it works and what the p the i the d and the feed forward terms are doing chris rosser has an amazing video where he goes into just the right amount of depth to help you understand it even for somebody who's a total beginner i'm going to link that down in the video description and you can check that out when you're done here if you're interested the way i would describe it which is right for the context of this video though is the pid controller's job is to make the quadcopter move in the way that you're commanding it to move when you move the sticks and like imagine that you're driving a car down a road and your goal is to keep the car on the center line of the road by moving the steering wheel but imagine that you're maybe you're like super sleepy or you're otherwise impaired and your reaction time is super slow and you're like you're kind of like really sloppy and you're not you're not moving the wheel the right so the car is kind of going all over the road right that's a pit controller that like isn't tuned correctly imagine you doing that same thing but you now you've had like way too much coffee so you're super jittery and you're like so instead of sort of sloshing back and forth around the road and you're kind of like twitching and moving that's a you're slamming on the brake way too hard you know that's a pig controller that's tuned badly when the pig controller is tuned correctly the quad flies well when it's tuned badly there are things that the quad does that flies badly and if this were a pid tuning tutorial i would then tell you what kind of things to look for to tell to tell you what changes to make to get the quad to fly well but that's not what this is suffice it to say that for each of these terms the p the i the d and the feed forward there is a gain which is this number here and that affects how the quadcopter the flight controller flies and when that number is right flat quad flies well and when it's wrong bad things happen now if we were to go back in time we would tune the flight controller by manually inputting numbers here and so you could talk to a betaflight expert and say oh my quadcopter is doing this thing and they say well what's your what's your p gain and you say oh my p gain i've got it set to 65 and they go wow 65 that's pretty high and they would just know that that's like a high number for where you're at and that's not something a lot of people can do and that's why the betaflight devs came up with these sliders right here and the idea is that when these sliders are at a value of 1.0 or one then the pid gains are in a kind of a neutral default position that is well what is it the default pins are right for a typical quadcopter was a typical quadcopter well it's probably like a five inch freestyle quad but they are also conservative enough that they work really well for a wide variety of quadcopters and are safe for a wide variety of quadcopters the takeaway is that the default pids should at least fly a wide variety of quads from like a little 65 millimeter tiny whoop all the way up to maybe a 10 inch or maybe even bigger uh certainly like a six or seven inch or maybe even a 10 inch bigger quadcopter the default pitch should at least kind of get it in the air and make it fly you might be able to tune it to make it fly better especially if you're pushing it hard but it should at least be able to get in the air and like not do anything too crazy that's what the default pits are and the more your quadcopter differs from that sort of default five inch freestyle quad the more you may need to change these pids and that's when we start moving the sliders around so when we move a slider to the right the numbers get bigger and if you look carefully you can see these numbers changing and we move a slider to the left the numbers get smaller in general a more powerful and lighter weight quadcopter will need less pit gains and a less powerful heavier and more sluggish quadcopter will need higher pit gains but the reality is that with a way to actually find the right value for these sliders is to go through a pid tuning process but the takeaway is that by adjusting these sliders you're raising and lowering these gains in specific ways relative to the defaults and that is a better way to sort of think and communicate about the pids rather than focusing on the specific numbers for many many situations so what are these sliders then the master multiplier raises all of the pids all of the paid gains up or down and by the way this mode selection here tells you which axes you're going to affect we can affect the roll pitch and yaw axis or in some cases people might want to have the sliders affect only the roll and pitch axes and manually tweak the yaw axis that's certainly a decision that's up to you but uh i'd say for beginners especially just do all three axes at once so the master multiplier raises and lowers the pids all of the pits together keeping their proportion the same then we'll go to the tracking slider the tracking slider sharpens the quad's response to your commands and outside influences such as the wind which keeps the quads and nose on course low air tracking values will have lots of bobbles and bounces and may go off course on sharp stick moves high tracking values may increase prop wash oscillation and bounce or overshoot on sharp stick moves the damping slider raises and lowers the d-max and derivative parameters only when d-gain is too high that you'll tend to get hot motors and you can actually end up with a quadcopter that flies away that you won't throttle down even when you lower the throttle um but higher d gain improves prop wash oscillation that's the main thing that it's used for uh low d gain weakens prop wash performance and that's the main thing that it does so you generally want your d gain as high as it can be without causing other problems like hot motors and fly away the stick response slider adjusts the feed forward term only feed forward responds to the movement of the stick directly as you begin to move the stick the feed forward term starts the quad moving and basically reduces the delay between the time that you begin to move the stick and the time that the quad begins moving bear in mind that the delays we're talking about are in single digit to tens of milliseconds so there's not going to be a delay probably that you can perceive just by looking at the quad and listening to it it's something more that you'll maybe feel in an intangible way or be able to see if you're looking at a black box log and then finally we've got dynamic damping which relates to the damping or d gain parameter dynamic damping adjusts the d max only one of the problems with the d term is that when the d term is too high you get hot motors and fly away and so what the devs have done is they've introduced a dynamic component to the d term where when the quad is moving smoothly the d term is lowered because it's not really needed except when the quad is moving moving abruptly and then as the quad moves abruptly such as a sharp turn or a snap roll then the d term is boosted so the d term will will be coasting along at this lower value and then when you do a snap roll or something it will boost up to this d-max value and by adjusting just damping it moves both of those numbers but then by adjusting dynamic damping it raises or lowers the maximum value that it will be allowed to pop up to while leaving the minimum the sort of cruising value the same and now that i've described that i feel bad that you like may not may not fully understand all of the implications and i have to keep reminding myself that this is not a pid tuning guide i just want to explain what each of the controls does so that you've kind of got that in your head i hope that's what you're here for next we've got the drift wobble slider which affects the eye gain the i-term gains only and this one is relatively easy to explain the higher the i-value the more the quad will tend to keep its nose in place when you like when lower throttle or when it is pushed on by an outside force like the wind you generally want this value to be as high as possible to keep the quad tracking well in spiral turns and so forth but if you start to see the sharp nose movement when you chop the throttle that could mean that eye gain is too high and needs to be lowered down if you're this this is also one that probably is not going to have the biggest effect on your experience flying it may be a little bit more subtle and so this one as you're trying to tune the quad i mostly focus on the master the tracking and the damping sliders that's a good place to start in fact if we enable if we disable expert mode you can see that it only gives you tracking damping and stick response it doesn't even give you master and it doesn't give you the separate eye gain slider also notice that the tracking slider affects both the p and the i gains whereas the drift wobble slider affects the eye gains only so there may be a case where you like you raise this one but then lower this one to get the eye gain back down where it was they are they're interacting together finally we've got these two sliders pitch damping and pitch tracking and they are the same as the tracking and damping sliders but they let you change those values for the pitch axis only and the idea is that the ra relative values of the pitch and roll pits depend on the weight distribution of the quad so if you have an aircraft with significantly different front to back versus side to side weight distribution you may need to adjust the pitched terms separately from the roll terms most people flying a sort of a typical five inch mini quad with that sort of common weight distribution won't need to change the pitch damping or tracking is they'll simply change the other one the the regular damping and tracking and the ratio will be correct next we come to paid controller settings and we'll start with the feed forward section the feed forward section has a whole bunch of parameters that can be used to tune exactly how feed forward works how quickly the feed forward responds to your stick movements and pushes the quadcopter to move i want to tell you that most people should not be tuning these parameters manually what most people should be doing is going to the presets tab and select the rc link category and in the rc link category find your control link so maybe i'm going to use express lrs and i can see there are several options here for 250 500 or 50 hertz so maybe i'm using 250 hertz and then i can also further go in and fine tune this with whether i'm flying freestyle racing cinematic etc and that will set your feed forward correctly according to the devs for the type of flying that you're doing and the reason i say that is that finding the correct value for these parameters there are so many parameters and the way they interact is in some ways non-intuitive finding the correct value is probably going to be a challenge for someone who hasn't put a ton of time and a ton of stick time into flying their quad so most people shouldn't be tweaking these manually they should be just selecting presets but we'll go through them so you know what they are because that's what i promised to do at the beginning of the video jitter reduction reduces feed forward than when the sticks are moving slowly regardless of their position and the reason this is relevant is that one of the things that's wrong with feed forward as previously implemented is that when the stick is moving slowly feed forward can be hyper active and can really make the motors rough and make the pit controller do a bad job the idea of jitter reduction is that when the stick is moving slowly and you're doing just smooth moves then it just kind of feed forward is like just kind of damp down and just sit sit to the side feed forward and then when you make rapid stick movements feed forward jumps up and does its job as we see here in the question mark the default is seven higher values like 10 to 12 are good for cinematic or hd freestyle purposes where you want the quad to stay as smooth as possible and you're not making a lot of snappy like snap rolls and so forth lower values like 5 may be better for racing or fast rc links and again just use a preset would be my recommendation feedforward smoothing attenuates noise in the feed forward trace it is essentially a low-pass filter i think that filters out some of the noise um the default of 25 is good for 50-150 hertz rc links for 250 hertz links use 45 to 50 and for 500hz links you use 60 to 65. so this depends on the packet rate of your rc link uh like if you're doing express lrs 500 hertz you would use a value of 60 to 65 and again that will all be handled by selecting a preset averaging can be off or two three and four point averaging averaging is another kind of filtering to remove sharp spikes in feed forward by default it is off but for very noisy 250 hertz links or for any 500 hertz link you want two-point averaging as you see here crossfire needs three-point averaging if it's in 150 hertz mode and you are not using crossfire shot just use the presets you don't need to remember all this stuff but i promised to tell you what it was and i'm going to live up to that promise feed forward boost adds extra push in response to stick acceleration or deceleration basically the way boost works is the faster you're moving the stick the harder feed forward pushes the quad to respond with a low fee forward boost the amount that you deflect the stick matters but the speed at which you deflect the stick doesn't matter it's like mouse acceleration remember mouse acceleration where the faster you move the mouse the more the cursor moves the disadvantage then of feed forward boost would be that you would get very different responsiveness depending on how fast you move the stick so if you want very very consistent responsiveness then you may want a lower boost value if you want a little bit more responsiveness when you jerk the stick maybe you raise this value boost can be fine-tuned with careful log analysis that's the betaflight devs not so subtly saying to you that if you're not like really an expert with black box logging then you probably should just leave this number alone and not just be tweaking it the max rate limit cuts the feed forward as the sticks move toward maximum deflection to minimize overshoot at the start of a flip or roll does nothing at the end of a flip or roll and this value seldom requires modification so just leave it alone and finally we've got transition transition reduces feed forward when the sticks are close to center and the idea here is that by raising the feed forward transition you can get sharp stick response when deflecting the stick but then not get as sharp a stick response when re-centering the stick so that you get a nice sharp stop when you bring the stick back to center zero is the default and it is turned off when would you want to turn it on frankly i think most people should fly with it off because it keeps the stick response you want consistent stick response whether you're deflecting or re-centering the stick and especially with all this other new stuff they've added with feedforward i don't think transition is as necessary in betaflight 4.3 as it was in 4.2 basically the problem that transition was fixing was more of a 4.2 problem in my opinion and this isn't really needed next we come to item relax item relax solves a problem with paid controllers called item windup and the problem that the way that item windup most often manifests is when you do a full 360 roll at the beginning of that roll the quadcopter will not accelerate as fast as it's being commanded to do and then at the end of the roll it will be moving so fast that it'll move too fast and and faster than the pit controller actually wants it to move and that will cause the pig controller to accumulate some error so the pig controller is always keeping track of how good of a job it's doing at making the quadcopter move the way that it's being commanded to move and when you go into that role like a snap roll like and you accumulate that error then at the end of that roll the pin controller is going to want to fix that error and sort of work it out of the system and the way that manifest is with like a bounce back a big slow bounce back at the end of the roll that's that's referred to as i term wind-up i term relax addresses the problem of i term windup by basically disabling the i term when the quadcopter is moving faster than a certain rotational speed the idea is that if we're going to do some super abrupt snap roll maybe there's going to be some error but now who cares we'll just let the pilot sort of deal with that but when the quad is moving slowly and and smoothly we want the i term to be tracking uh very strictly and doing its job i term relax can be set on just the roller pitch axis or the roll pitch and yaw axis the default is roll and pitch only because the yaw axis tends not to have a very high rotational rate on most quads and so the there tends not to be a lot of item windup on the yaw axis the type of item relax can be either setpoint or gyro the default is setpoint and that works best for very responsive quads if you have a very big quadcopter with very slow response gyro mode may be appropriate and then finally we've got the item relax cut off threshold which in my opinion is one of the most significant ways of affecting the stiffness versus looseness feel of a quadcopter the value that they give here in the tooltip is that a value of 30 to 40 is good for racing 15 for very responsive freestyle builds 10 for heavier freestyle builds and maybe three to five for great big x-class quads i do recommend that you tweak the cutoff value and feel the results or just set the value for based on these tooltips recommendations anti-gravity anti-gravity addresses a problem where when you raise and lower the throttle abruptly like if i were to take the throttle and just go well you don't usually do that but what you do is you raise the throttle you're doing a big punch out and then you cut the throttle and at that moment when you cut the throttle uh the nose will like dip right or you punch the throttle for some reason and at that moment you punch the throttle the nose tips back right anti-gravity addresses this by boosting the eye term which is responsible for the stability of the quad in in some ways boosting the eye term when the throttle is moving rapidly anti-gravity i recommend that it be permanently enabled i can't really think of a reason why you'd want to turn this off it basically doesn't have any downsides the mode can be either smooth or step step was used in older versions of betaflight and basically only kicks in when the throttle is moving past a certain speed that is essentially inferior in every way in my opinion to smooth so basically step should just be ignored and everybody should use smooth where anti-gravity is always active and it's proportional to the speed of the throttle but it doesn't just kick in suddenly and then we've got gain which is the strength of the anti-gravity and for tuning the gain you can increase the gain which will increase the stability on strong throttle moves but if you increase it too much you may end up with bringing the problem back out again so in short if you have a quadcopter where when you pump the throttle the nose goes wow wow wow wow then try raising the anti-gravity gate i term rotation i term rotation i don't actually understand it's a very weird mathematical thing uh what it does is it rotates the current i term vector properly to the other axis as the quad rotates when yawing continuously during rolls and when performing funnels and other tricks very appreciated by line-of-sight acropylons what i have taken away from i-term rotation is that it solves a problem that mostly only happens when you're doing very fast yaw movements and fpv pilots usually don't do very fast and continuous yaw movements because we get super disoriented but for line of sight pilots they could do a trick where the quad just spins in a circle and it solves some problem that comes up when you do that but i'm not a line of sight pilot so i don't really understand it my takeaway from this is that if you are a line of sight pilot or any pilot who does a lot of fast continuous yaw spins then you might want to turn item rotation on but otherwise it probably doesn't matter dynamic damping are two parameters that control the derivative term i said previously that the derivative term will be coasting along cruising along at these lower values until you do an abrupt move like a snap roll or a sharp turn and then the d term will boost up to this d-max value to try and handle that situation the dynamic damping gain and advance are two parameters that control how aggressively and how quickly the d term will boost this is very difficult to tune without black box logging and is not values that people probably should be just changing willy-nilly many people feel that this dynamic d thing causes more problems than it solves like how do you know if it's boosting up fast enough high enough to do its job and some people say get rid of this dynamic d altogether what you can do is you can lower the dmax all the way down to zero and then the dmax and the d term will be the same and then you can just adjust the d slider to put these values well what i would do i would start with the sliders at one i noticed the d max is about 40 and 46 so then i would take the dynamic damping down to zero and i would raise the d gains up until we got back to approximately where we were that seems about right 42 and 47. so now our d gain is roughly where it was all the time it's at the max value all the time and that could cause its own kind of problems but some people will prefer to take this approach and not they want to have a consistent d term they don't want to have a d term that's constantly jumping up and down and maybe messing with their tune next we come to the throttle and motor settings throttle boost uh throttle boost is a feed forward for your throttle see makes total sense right the idea is that if you've got a quadcopter with big heavy motors or large props the motors may not be very responsive and so what throttle boost will do is when you raise the throttle abruptly the faster you raise the throttle the more it will begin to raise the motor speed and it will raise the motor speed higher than the throttle actually is initially going on the assumption that you'll catch up and the motors will catch up throttle boost is mostly useful like i said on larger quads with large heavy props it's not really necessary for smaller quads like five inch or six inch freestyle quads but if you want to have a more responsive throttle you can raise the throttle boost if you raise the throttle boost too high then little throttle movements will cause the motors to surge in a way that you don't want so that's what will happen if you get it too high motor output limit this is a cool one what if you've got a quadcopter that is too powerful the motors are too fast and you want to tame it a little bit and bring the speed down motor output limit reduces the motor output 100 is 100 percent i put in 80 it's 80 percent and you can safely take this down in my experience to about 60 or 65 below about 60 65 percent you probably will start to get into some problems with how the quad flies maybe even as low as 50 depending on the quad but probably not much lower than that one of the ways that motor output limit is used is as i said if you just are a beginner and you want your quad to be a little bit less powerful it can help you get it under control the other way that motor output limit is used is if your motor kv is too high you can in software lower the motor kv so you could have a quad that's got 2400 kv motors which are designed for use with a 4s battery but if you want to run it with a 6s battery you can put a 6s battery and a 66 motor output limit which brings those motors effectively down back down to the correct rpm for 6s battery you've essentially lowered the kv of the motor by 66 percent if you decide to do this it may work fine but be aware that some esc's and some motors if you run a 6s battery with 2400 kv motors and a 66 motor output limit you just like smoke motors all the time so if you try this and you smoke motors like the first two motors you smoke well this wasn't a good idea the motor output limit isn't smoking the motors the fact that you're running a 2400 kv motor on a 6s battery is what's smoking the motors the kv is just too high and there's only so much the software can do to kind of bring that back down again but the motor output limit is a very very useful tool i also want to show you this setting miscellaneous settings cell count because that is tied to the motor output limit although it's also tied to everything else i'll get to that in just a second next we've got dynamic idle and you can see it says dynamic idle is off because d shot telemetry is off in order for dynamic idle to work we need to go into the motors tab and we need to turn bi-directional d-shot on and once that's done then we can use dynamic idle now here in the motors tab there is a static idle value the idle value is the slowest that the motors will go when the throttle is all the way down and the idle value is important because like just like a an automobile engine if the idle is too low it will bog down and stall and with your quadcopter the same thing happens if the idle is too low the motor will stutter and stall and the quad will fall out of the air now the motor idle percent is normally a static value it stays the same all the time the default is 5.5 percent of the throttle value but the betaflight devs figured out that they're they're actually the quad can fly better if you don't use the same idle value all the time there are times when you want the idle value to be a little lower like if you if you spend a lot of time inverted having a lower idle value will keep the quad in the air longer because when the quad's upside down the motors are pulling it down so a lower idle value lets it float for longer if you do long dives down tunnels you may notice that the motors will pull you offline because even at idle speed they still have enough thrust to pull you offline and that's why when people do big long building dives or big long tunnel dives you'll see them kind of rotate sometimes to keep themselves on the axis that they want to be traveling down a lower idle value reduces that effect so the idea of the dynamic idle is that you can set a specific rpm that you want to shoot for and rather than focusing on a throttle percent we'll shoot for that rpm and if we're in a situation where we can let the motors go to a lower value we will and if we're in a situation where the motors might be about to stall and need more thrust we'll kick it up that's what really makes this powerful if i put an rpm value in here and the motor begins to stall and drop below that rpm rather than just holding a certain throttle and going i hope everything works out the flight controller will detect that the motor is about to stall and and compensate at least that's the theory the dynamic idle value is entered in a unit of hundreds of rpms so a value of 20 is 2000 rpm and if we look right here we can see the recommended value is around 3000 to 3500 rpm for a typical 5-inch mini quad it may need to be higher for very very small or lower for very very large props and large motors but a value of around 2000 to 3500 is a good place to start if you're if you're just getting started i set this to 3 000 i've been playing with different values between 2 and 3 000 on most of my five-inch quads and i like the results v-bat sag compensation have you ever noticed that at the beginning of a battery when your battery's fully charged your quad feels super punchy and super powerful and then when you come to the end of the battery this feels a little bit soft and maybe a little slushy the idea behind feedback sag compensation is what if it felt soft and slushy all the time okay i'm kind of joking but i'm kind of not what vpat's sag compensation does is it artificially reduces the power of the quad when the battery is full and then as the battery voltage comes down it increases the motors back up to 100 percent and the idea is that you'll have a more consistent performing quad if you're a racer who you're just putting in lap after lap after lap you might think you want the quad to be as powerful as possible but the difference in battery voltage between the first lap and the third lap might be enough to throw you off as you go into a turn with your finely honed reflexes and the argument is you might rather have a quad that's more consistent rather than a quad that's super powerful and then gets weaker now you see here that v-bat sag compensation has a parameter where you can turn it down if you don't want the full effect the idea is that it'll be a little bit more powerful at full throttle and but the the devs recommend if you look at the tool tip that you leave it at 100 or don't use it at all some people just if you don't need that absolute consistency between the beginning and the end of your pack and if you want the most power at the beginning of the battery then leave that off thrust linearization this is a feature that tries to compensate for the fact that the thrust that a propeller makes is not linearly proportional to the rpm so when you raise the throttle of the motor from 10 to 20 percent you get you d you might get 10 percent more thrust but when you raise it from 50 to 60 percent you might not get 10 percent more thrust there's a non-linear relationship between the throttle and the actual thrust that the quadcopter makes thrust linearization in my mind is a little bit experimental i have seen thrust linear cause problems where the quad if if you are at low throttle and you bounce off an obstacle the quad violently over corrects uh and i personally don't 100 trust it but it does improve low throttle authority and responsiveness basically makes the quad have more authority at low throttle and if you want to try turning it on you can if you particularly feel that your quad lacks authority at low throttle then you could turn it on but it's off by default and i leave it off the cell count parameter is used for automatic profile switching so let's say that we've got one pid tune and this is profile number one i don't know i'm just making random changes here doesn't mean anything we've got one pidtune and that's profile number one and we want that to be used whenever we plug in a 6s battery so i'm going to put a 6 here in the cell count and then we're going to go to profile number 2 and we've got another pidtune that we use for when we plug in a 4s battery so i'm going to put a 4 here and save and then it will automatically switch between those pid profiles based on the voltage of the battery that i plug in this is obviously only useful if you're going to have a quadcopter where you plug in more than one battery voltage but if you are in such a situation this can be super useful acro trainer angle limit this ties back to the modes tab where there is the acro trainer mode now i talked about that mode back in when i discussed the modes tab and that's linked down in the playlist at the bottom but the acro trainer angle limit is the maximum angle that the quad will be allowed to rotate to when it is in acro trainer mode so the default is that the quad will be allowed to rotate to a maximum of 20 degrees and no further changing this if you're not using acro trainer mode this doesn't matter it has no effect if you are using acro trainer angle acro trainer mode then this controls how far you can tilt over integrated yaw integrated yaw is another experimental option and that's why it's off but the idea of integrated yaw is that the yaw axis has so little authority on a quadcopter that the p term really acts like the i term and the d term really acts like the p term and when you enable integrated yaw basically the pit controller swaps those so it gets rid of the i term and it makes the p term be the i term and the d term be the p term and none of that made sense to you then just leave this off and just use the sliders i think this makes less sense with the sliders because when you're tuning numbers then maybe it makes sense i don't know i'm not really sure about this one but that's what it does it just swaps those we've got absolute control which is another really obscure uh experimental option that tries to solve the same problem item rotation is trying to solve which i told you only really matters if you're doing like line of sight fast yaw moves and so probably not going to mess with that finally we come over here to the angle horizon pids these are used whenever you're flying in auto level mode angle mode or horizon mode the strength is how hard how abruptly the quad will try to follow your stick movements i actually think increasing angle strength can be really good for maybe if you're a tiny whip racer who flies in angle mode it actually really sharpens up the stick response and makes the quad feel so much better if you don't fly in angle mode then this doesn't matter if you raise this too high you'll start to see the quad get kind of oscillating especially on sharp stick moves but um i think if you fly in angle mode give it give a try at increasing this especially with a little tiny whoop you may be able to get this up to the 75 80 or even 90 100 range and it flies way better horizon is the same thing but if you're using horizon mode and then horizon transition controls the stick position where horizon mode switches from angle to acro mode finally we've got the angle limit and the angle limit is used in angle mode for how far over the quad will go when you fully deflect the stick and this is a good one because the higher this number the faster you can go in angle mode because the quad will pitch forward more the lower this number the easier it is to control the quad in angle mode so if you're an absolute beginner and you're looking to fly in angle mode i suggest you reduce angle limit reduce it down to maybe 30 35 the reason you don't want to take it too low is that eventually the quad will not be able to pitch over enough to actually fly especially if you're outdoors in the wind you may just get carried away by the wind but an angle limit of 35 is way easier for a beginner to fly than the default of 55 which is tailored more towards racers and that is going to bring us to the end of this video there's more in the pid tuning tab we've got to talk about raid profile settings and filter settings but that i think is more than enough for this video and we're going to actually do something we've never done before we are going to spread this but this single tab between multiple videos when that next video is out i'll put a card up on screen so you can get right to it in the meantime there's a card on screen for the whole playlist and of course these videos will all be in the playlist and thank you very much for checking that out i'll see you there