another wave here okay and you can see this wave is a lot more messy you see all these little waves kind of in between the bigger wave right you see all these little lips and stuff as you can see this one it's so clean right it's it's it's very easily predicted where this one has all these weird lips within it okay this wave here is in tasmania this way called ship sterns um this person was towed in he's actually strapped into his uh board he's got straps like snowboard straps almost okay on his surfboard so his feet are locked in now what i can tell you about the way the bottom looks here is that it's very jagged okay it's irregular it's not a nice flat surface that the wave is breaking on the surface will actually look if you follow my mouse right now look like up down up down with caves and all sorts of weird stuff underneath making this irregular surface on the water so that's why this wave looks the way that it does is because the bottom looks a certain way big take away message that i'm trying to get across you is that the bottom whatever the structure of the bottom underneath the water looks like that's what dictates or determines how a way will break and how a wave will look so once again here's a wave in ships turns reminding you once again all these waves are created by wind okay just wind now i gotta show you this video all about wipeouts okay i just kind of want to impress upon you how passionate these surfers are how excited they are to go out there and risk kind of their lives sometimes um every time you get in the water you are kind of risking your life because if you just had any sort of injury where it made you um pass out you're really potentially risking your life but it's all in in fun and it's all what you decide what's worth what right so you got things in your life that you're really passionate about and you got to remember that one of the scariest things we do on an everyday basis is drive our cars right people have a major accidents and and it's a risk of your life every time you get in that car so yes these surfers are risking their eyes but we all risk our lives in some way or another and i just want to get that across so i hope you enjoyed this wipeout video you'll hear some people talking that are very passionate about this sport if you will or lifestyle however you like to look at it and uh yeah just enjoy the video okay let's take a look [Music] as it throws over me the lights go out and it's just black and i'm alone i'm thinking okay relax so i go to pull in my limbs as i go to pull in my limbs i realize that the left side of my body is not responding and i've got my right hand on my pull cord and as i as i hit i can just feel the whole left side of my body just rag dolly the wave kind of stood still and i wasn't really moving and then the board just slipped from underneath my feet and i was laying down face first and the lip was a little underneath me while i was in the lip and when the lip hit the reef it almost brought an explosion back towards me which i think is what truly saved saved me [Music] people is actually terrified for the way it was my wife was as crazy people was like man i thought he was done you know and uh so i have achieved coming to pick me up and victor lopez just grabbed me i tried to go back and catch one more wave but that never happened i think my session was the worst so i thought of my life [Applause] hot the first initial impact just boom like so the most violent one i've for sure ever had and i just blew me up and then the second third fourth fifth i hit the reef and got pinball on the reef [Music] i probably free fell 30 feet and you know i've got a 9-4 board and it's pretty heavy and took a couple more on the head after that but it's like i said it was the scary part was the drop just getting pitched i'd dive under hold my breath any all day rather than get pitched and take a chance of hitting my fins because or my board that's that's where you die i never ever imagined doing a freefall that huge so that was definitely the biggest yeah the biggest kind of most extreme wipeout i've ever had had i made that drop potentially that would have been wave of my life i don't really think i was just oh my god i'm just like oh just waiting for what's going to happen you know i didn't have time to think i was not afraid i was just kind of like everything stops okay what's going on then when my foot started to come off my board i just knew everything was going wrong so i just had to take a deep breath and just was getting ragged all down the face and when i went over i just got the biggest breath i could and just like it wasn't a good feeling you had sucked over on that thing i was just sitting at the back basically behind the rope just waiting for a set to come through really came in spotted the first little step and i sort of lost a bit of not lost a bit of speed but this didn't have enough speed and i'm just trying to get down it but um gravity really wasn't helping and then just basically went over the handlebars and copped up as i went over the first layer job pretty much just like nose dives my board just stopped and i fell on my back and pretty much got stuck on the top of the lid on like a 15 foot up and i was like so scared and yeah like my heart sunk and i was just like looking down and i could just see all these steps and stuff and it was like such a crazy experience and i pretty much went down like a waterfall like the best way to describe it like i just dropped down and yeah like the impact was really harsh and i just got thrown around [Music] so yeah what'd you think of that right i mean those were some big waves and some really scary white belts and uh i hope you enjoyed it i just want you to uh kind of appreciate all those waves once again are made by wind okay waves are just absolutely amazing and when it comes down to it right i know we've talked about this before but how is it that you are hearing me right now anyone that's right sound waves okay sound waves are making their way to your ear for you to hear me also how are you seeing the screen right light waves so sound waves light waves ocean waves we're going to get into our next one we'll talk about this um next video but here's a quick uh look into what we'll be talking about tsunamis right these are kind of earthquake waves or tectonic waves if you will okay so i want to show you this it i want to warn you though that this video is a little bit disturbing it's a little bit hard to watch the devastation that's occurring but it's also fascinating to see the power of a tsunami and to see how quickly it can um kind of just destroy a lot of infrastructure pick up cars with it um so yeah this is another kind of wave um and it's very different than an ocean wave or a sound wave or a light wave yet all of these waves sound waves light waves ocean waves tsunami waves they all can be talked about with the same principles so we're going to get into those principles soon but things like wavelength or period so we'll stick with those we're gonna get further into those terminologies that we'll use and yeah have a look at this video we're gonna talk about tsunamis and if at a at a later date maybe in uh the next lecture video alright so i know this isn't the video i tried to show you the video and i uploaded it to youtube but what happened was they actually blocked the uh the video so here's the link if you want to go check it out please go check it out otherwise uh we'll just continue on but as you can see lots of devastation these cars are literally falling off the side and getting smashed by this tsunami wave check out the video if you want if not we'll talk about more tsunami waves in the future and we'll get back to lecture alright so you can pause it here check out the link take care okay i'm sure that um uh some of you had some shock in that video uh it's quite a scary scene um as you can see those boats and those cars and all this this flooding um from a tsunami surge right it's very scary uh we'll talk a lot more in depth about that next class next lecture video um let's get back into wind waves though okay so ocean waves remember wind creates these waves okay so what we have here we got a storm right way out in the ocean um this could be up in the north pacific north atlantic out in the southern ocean whatever it might be okay so big storm lots of wind this wind is blowing across the surface of this water and it is causing waves to form okay so these waves here are forming and this is the direction of the wind if you will heading from the right hand side to screen to the left forming these waves which are now advancing from right to left as well so these waves are forming and they have all the different kinds of waves within them at the source of the storm okay so it's a very um messy scene out here near the storm and what i want to get across to you is that these waves slowly but surely through a process called dispersion will sort themselves out so let's take a look at what it might look like actually in the storm if you were out in there in a boat let's show you in this video here [Music] unknown okay so i have no idea why they were laughing in that ship because i would be so scared in that moment um that's such a scary video for me to watch i can't imagine being in that boat i would feel so unsafe but i it sounds like they're having some fun so yeah good for them but you could see how stormy the seas were right there's just waves all over the place in that one wave is called a rogue wave which we'll get into a little bit now something i want to get across you here is this idea of fetch okay so this is the limit of the storm so this is the back end of the storm and here's the front end of the storm and wind is blowing across the surface of this ocean right here of this water the distance in which your uh wind is blowing across the surface of the water is called your fetch so the the the area in which you are moving wind across the surface of that of that water okay and their wave size in the sea increases with increasing wind speed okay so how fast how fast the wind is blowing the duration so how long it blows for and then also your fetch the distance in which your wind is blowing across an ocean okay