Hair Cutting Series: Episode 4 - Hair Cutting Tools

Introduction

• Focus on hair cutting tools, especially shears.
• Next episode: Full zero-degree or one-length blunt square haircut.
• Reference for students: Milady book, page 369.

Overview of Tools

• Shears: Called shears in hairdresser lingo.

  • Come in different sizes; preference for smaller ones.
  • Texturizing shears: Straight blade and blade with teeth.
  • Thinning shears (more teeth = less hair removal).

• Razors: Creates a feathered look.

  • Razor combs and basic razors.

• Clippers: Used for short haircuts.

  • Different guard sizes; guards maintain consistent hair length.

• Trimmers/Edgers: Smaller version of clippers.

  • Used for detailing around hairline and ears.

• Clips: Butterfly clips and duckbill clips for sectioning hair.

• Combs:

  • Barber comb for tapering.
  • Tail comb for sectioning and foiling.
  • Wide tooth comb for detangling.
  • All-purpose comb (420 comb) with wide and fine teeth.

Choosing the Right Shears

• Start with affordable shears; not necessary to buy the most expensive when starting out.
• Make small weekly improvements, whether in tools or techniques.

Shear Details

• Made of steel; U.S., Japan, and Germany major producers.
• Hardness measured on Rockwell hardness scale (ideal: 56-57).

Types of Shears

• Cast Shears: Made by pouring metal into a mold; cheaper.
• Forged Shears: Made by hammering heated metal; more durable.

Parts of a Shear

• Cutting edge, pivot area, finger tang for control, ring finger hole, thumb hole.

Maintenance and Sharpening

• Clean shears daily; ideally after each client.
• Lubricate with shear oil; deep clean weekly.
• Sharpen as needed; be cautious of sales pitches.

Proper Use and Techniques

• Holding shears and comb correctly is crucial.
• Right-handed and left-handed shears.
• Practice using only the thumb to move the blade.
• Learn to palm shears for safe handling.

Conclusion

• Episode 5 will focus on actual haircutting techniques.
• Encouragement to view weekly improvements as both skill-based and mental.
• Available resources: Free guide on instructor’s website.

Additional Thoughts

• Suggestions for self-improvement and confidence building.
• Importance of maintaining hygiene and technique compliance in professional settings.