welcome back to my bathroom! and welcome to
episode 4 of the hair cutting Series today we're going to talk all about hair cutting tools
and especially especially your shears I'm going to show you how to properly hold them clean them cut
with them because the next episode in this series we're doing our first full haircut we're gonna
do the whole thing together I'm so excited if you want to look ahead it's going to be a zero
degree or a one length blunt square one length haircut if you're in school we're on page 369 in
this Milady book to note real quick I did skip a couple paragraphs I've been trying to do these in
order that way it can help you or assist you with your test I'm skipping the client consultation
face shapes and hair analysis analysis portion because that was more in depth in chapter 11
which is properties of the hair and scalp but if you're not in school or in a different book I
have free printables or a guide on my websites in the description box below print it out burn it
do whatever you want it's free subscribe like buttons Bells whistles All That Jazz I'm here for
you every single week let's go so we're going to go over all the tools or most of the tools you're
going to use when performing different types of haircuts first one is your most obvious and that's
shears these are scissors in hairdresser lingo we're going to refer to them always as shears
shears sorry I just took my retainer out again so my s's shears it sounds cleaner shears look
like this they come in all kinds of different types sizes I myself prefer the really small
ones like these see the difference I love the little babies texturizing texturizing texturizing
shears look like this there's a straight blade and a blade with teeth these actually came with
this in a kit under 20 for Amazon from Amazon can't English today and it came with a cape Clips
cleaner everything you need twenty dollars I'll link these below it's a really good pair to use
at home or if you're starting out there's a lot of different sizes and styles of these these are
just your basic texturizing shears also called thinning shears they have notching shears which
are scary they have big teeth what you need to remember about these is the more teeth they have
the less hair they're going to remove so these are not going to remove that much hair or weight
razors look like this we have a razor comb same thing applies with this it has the guard on it
the more teeth the less it's going to take out the less teeth the more hair is going to come out this
one has a comb on it so you can flip this is your basic razor has a guard on it the blade I need
to clean whoop you can do a whole haircut with a razor if you want long or short you can just
create layers or do finish work with it a razor is going to create a more lived in or feathered
look to the haircut all right yee-haw Clippers I know mine are dirty this is what a Clipper
looks like mainly used for short haircuts but you can hold the comb and like I did with my
last video the gray clip see my short haircut that's why I've got it slicked back today
because I still haven't had time to refine that haircut from that beautiful tool Clippers
have guards that look like this all different sizes they just snap on if you cut the hair
with just the Clipper it elevates up by the way that's a bald eagle straight to the scalp
you're still going to have a little hair to get it like Mr Clean look you're gonna have to shave
that you could do it with a straight razor the guard is saving the length it's making it all
the same length you can cut over and over and over this way this way this way backward and it's
always going to be this length whatever guard it is you'll hear one two three four usually men or
women that get a Clipper cut they know like I want a four on the sides now we have our trimmers looks
like this these are just a smaller version of the Clippers you can also call them edgers this is for
around the hairline the neckline around the ears and the ears please if you're cutting a man's hair
or women if they have your hair because some of these men they like a plant growing out of there
just cut that off now of course you're gonna ask permission do you mind if I cut this Forest out
of your ear most time men don't even know they have ear hair but you have it let's cut it out
for you and then it grows inside on the lobes okay so these are great for that then we have
Clips butterfly Clips which I don't have because I don't ever use them but they're really good on
mannequins I'll show you a picture they're like this duckbill Clips are this like a duckbill they
have them flat or they have the ones that bend see that so you can fit more hair inside they're fun
Barber comb I actually don't have one of these yeah I don't have one of these at all so I'll give
you a picture but they're narrow on one end that allows you to really taper around the ear do clip
over comb and really get a nice fade going Telecom looks like this also called a wrap tail comb or
a pintail comb you can use this for sectioning foiling wrap the foil around this wouldn't use it
for hair cutting because it's sharp to stop you or the client and it may slip out of your hand when
you're palming the shears wide tooth comb is wide teeth to detangle hair also wouldn't want to do a
haircut with one of those all-purpose comb this is my favorite comb it's also called a also called a
420 comb it is your basic comb it usually has the inches on the side wide teeth and fine teeth
less tension more tension now we're going to talk all about our hair cutting shears we're going
on a deep dive before we start breaking this down I want to add a personal opinion touch whatever
you want to call that about our shears if you're following along in the book with me it's going
to tell you to only buy the best equipment tools shears everything has to be top-notch high quality
your book clearly hasn't been on a budget before I strongly disagree with that statement that you
have to have the best of the best especially when you're just getting started not in these times in
my opinion it's best to start with a really really cheap pair of everything cheap Cape cheap Clips
cheap scissors cheers it hurts less to drop a 20 pair of shears than a 200 pair of shears now is
a nice pair of shears is it going to cut better yeah but you can get the job done you can get
it done it will be okay I would suggest making one small Improvement a week this is kind of
unrelated but related but a great example is this YouTube channel I don't know what I'm doing
I don't know what I'm doing especially if you've been here from the beginning I really don't know
what I'm doing okay I do not know I know what I'm doing like right now what I'm teaching you but as
far as the equipment this microphone loading this in the computer editing this I'm I'm a one-woman
show I'm doing this all on I do not know what I'm doing do not know but what I do know is that every
single week I make one commitment to do something better or improve a mistake for example episode
one of this the audio was oh so bad as it hurts it hurt me and you let me know and I appreciate
that and so what I did the next week was made the Improvement what was the problem well the problem
was I didn't have the microphone plugged in so sometimes making a small Improvement doesn't have
to be like Oh I'm gonna purchase something it's just tweaking it a little bit like this week
I'm gonna work on my posture when hair cutting I'm Gonna Do shoulders back next week maybe I am
going to buy something I'm gonna buy a 50 pair of shears the next week I'm gonna practice on my
self-confidence so I portray that to my clients so they feel comfortable giving me money in exchange
for whacking their hair off so it doesn't have to be a financial Improvement every week it can be
mental it can be physical you can financially do it but just like this YouTube channel every week
I've got something on my mind of what I'm going to improve alter change because it's so new and I'm
solar I'm slow learner y'all this hard okay this isn't just whipping up a camera and woo it's a lot
of things to make this this anyway to Circle back to that please please do not get down on yourself
if you don't have the best kit the best equipment are all the things you're gonna get them all right
back to the book telling you to buy all the things shears this is what we're going to use the most
these are our tools shears scissors shears all shears are made out of steel and can you believe
that the United States is one of the top producers of the steel for the shears we don't make
anything here anymore except for my pillow Japan and Germany also producing this deal for
these shares have different shears have different hardness levels it runs on the Rockwell hardness
Rockwell hardness scale Rockwell hardness scale The Sweet Spot for that is going to be 56 to 57.
if you're in these 63 range they're too hard when you drop them they could break it needs to be that
nice medium not too soft not too hard the middle if the metal is really soft it's not going to hold
a sharp edge you'll need to get them sharpened a lot so the harder it is the less you have to
maintenance or sharpen them when we're making shears are not we but when someone God bless you
is making shears they're either forged or cast cast like a arm cast cast past shears are the
cheaper of the two usually and what that means is the metal is heated up and poured into a cast
or a mold kind of like you're baking a cake and when the cake or the metal cools you can take it
out and you have that thing the sheer or that cake whatever spaceship cake whatever you were trying
to do cast cheers are what you're going to be seeing a lot on Amazon and eBay y'all don't forget
about eBay eBay has the same stuff as Amazon most the time cheaper you're going to be seeing a lot
of those on Amazon they're just cheaper to produce it's easier faster quicker now forged forged
forged excuse me English is hard Forge Forge forget it forged shears are where they pour the
metal and they work it into a shape by hammering and pressing it forged the metal is going to
be heated between 21 to 2300 degrees Fahrenheit that's hot so basically they beat the hello out
of it dip it in Cool Water to set it shock it like you would an egg and ta-da you have shears
now we're gonna get into the parts of this year your Cutting Edge here this is what's cutting the
hair the blades your pivot area right here this is what is allowing everything to move that's what's
making it actually cut you can adjust this little area usually your shears will come with a tool
that looks like this you can tighten it or loosen it ratty tighty lefty Loosey for your shears this
little guy right here this is called your finger Tang this is for your pinky it's for it to rest
here kind of releases the tension and gives you a lot of control over the sheer you don't want to be
getting carpal tunnel you don't want your fingers just hanging out all over here just relax gives it
something to relax on finger Tang pinky this part is for your ring finger the thumb hole is for your
thumb oop hang on okay those are way too tight you kind of just have to play with them figure it
out sometimes some shears will have another Tang on the thumb part and you can buy these little
jelly inserts non-slip glips grip grips grips grips to make these holes smaller and so you don't
like if you're sweating or whatever you know me I sweat not to brag kind of like this but you can
buy like glitter ones whatever you need now for our maintenance you have to make maintenance these
things especially if you ever get a two three four hundred dollar pair you're going to want to take
care of these but even our little cheapies we want to maintenance them because our future self is
going to have a really nice pair and we want to train ourselves to take care of them even though
these aren't super nice we're still going to take care of them that way we know okay when we do
get a nice pair we're gonna be taking care of them it's in the mind first off we're going
to clean them daily in a perfect world you're cleaning them after every single client because
y'all adults are gross kids are gross but adults are gross kids are not the only ones who carry
lies adults carry lice and don't even know how do you not know I do not know but they will do it
and they will try to come get a haircut not only that that bacteria people don't shampoo their
hair ever I'm one of them people are just girls just because a person looks clean does not mean
they're clean and that's some solid dating advice too all right speaking of dating you're gonna need
to lube these Lube the blades sheer oil it's in the other room I'm trapped in this bathroom once
I get this equipment I can't get out usually oil will come with your shears it's just this little
tube of oil lube you can put it in the adjustment ring here on the blades put it on the top let it
bead down and just kind of work it through to do a deep weekly cleaning you would unscrew this not
all the way but just enough get it really loose because if you do it all the way they're gonna
Boop fall apart and they're kind of off balance get all the hair out a little soft toothbrush
from the Dollar Tree or d25 5 whatever it's gonna be Ten Dollar Tree soon brush all the hair
out because hair gets trapped in here wash these with soap and water then you want to dry them
really really good get the hair dryer in there you don't want any rust coming up here so dry
it with a hair dryer as well then you can spray it with an EPA disinfectant put some barbicide
that's that blue junk in a water bottle dilute it though what you're buying at the store needs to
be diluted with water you can put that in a spray bottle spray it on there I like to do that instead
of just submerging the tool in the barbicide jar I like to just spray it so I'm in control of it
drying I am a control freak then you can put your Lube on now these things need to be sharpened
it's on an as needed basis when you get into the salon usually a technician will come like every
three months or so with a big bag trying to sell you a bunch of shears or sharpening tool whatever
please remember that he or she is still a Salesman at heart and their main goal no matter how nice
they are is to sell you something to sell you a sheer to sell you a service so you need to be the
judge okay are these still sharp if you're not sure cut a piece of hair and see not just because
someone tells you to do something means you need to do it remember there are some companies also
where you can mail the shears they'll sharpen them mail them back it's whatever you prefer
okay now we're following in line so this is on page 374 right 374 to 375 we're gonna skip this
part I would suggest reading it especially if you're watching this to help you pass it test
it is important and it's going to be on your test it's just talking about how to purchase this
year again I would suggest these 20 pair you get two you get the cape you get everything learn how
to hold it learn how to properly cut learn how to take care of them then make a weekly Improvement
invest in something better but for now this will get you where you need to go all right so now on
to holding shears page 378. I'm right-handed so I'm using a right-handed pair of shears if you're
left-handed you're not I mean I guess you could but not recommended to just buy a right-handed
pair of shears and put them in your left hand they make shears especially for you but if you
are left-handed watching this it's just mirrored backwards for you when we hold our shears we
have our ring finger remember the Tang our other fingers rest here and it's not like this okay
you're not weight lifting relax you don't wanna that's a little unrelated but I can't believe
y'all I have done some weird stuff in my teaching career but I did at one time have a blind student
and she had a seeing eye dog and at this school I worked out y'all they would let anyone in she
actually ended up being pretty good because she was like she couldn't drive a car or anything she
could still see but not as well as maybe like you or I even with you know contacts weren't gonna fix
that okay and I loved the dog because she couldn't see well she was over compensating for her hand
and you can just tell like do not put stress if you see your veins it's too much just relax the
tool is working for you not against you so this should be a very relaxed position now it may not
look relaxed on me because I am double jointed I do all these like weird things with my fingers so
my fingers are looking weird okay but I am relaxed the thumb is not way out here okay that's that's
not gonna work the thumb is kissing it right a little past your cuticle if you will it's right
here the thumb is controlling our moving blade when we cut it's not like this we're not using
all these four fingers and our thumb to cut hair I know we're used to that because we're crafting
cutting paper whatever I mean your whole lifetime using scissors has been like this not anymore now
you're just using your thumb your thumb is doing all the work this one right here with your thumb
this is called your moving blade your steel blade is right here the one with all my fingers this is
my steel blade it's not gonna move when we start cutting hair even though it's horizontal for most
of the cuts vertical also we're still just using our thumb so it's a new habit you have to form
how you're going to form that habit is just with anything else you're going to repeat it over and
over and over and over again repetition so you can do this or right here y'all I am wearing
sweatpants when I film these I only have an eye shirt on and the rest is sweatpants and like
look I've got Christmas socks on but it appears like I'm ready for business to practice this set
your knee up put your 90 Day Fiance whatever show you like Bing Bing Bing so that way it's not gonna
move or on your hand you have to train your brain that this Blade is to not move my steel blade is
still my moving blade is the only one moving just like a Lobster Claw a crab claw whatever so over
and over and over and over and over you want to practice that you do not want to get in the habit
of what you've been doing your whole lifetime and cutting like this not only is that hard on the
hand that's a lot of muscles being used at once over time you do 12 haircuts a day that's gonna
hurt that's carpal tunnel waiting to happen but you're gonna get a cleaner cut also it looks a
lot better now we're gonna have to add in our comb when we're hair cutting we're not cutting with our
shears putting them down combing holding the hair are picking up our shears and cutting that's too
much going on we're gonna Palm these which means much like when you're in kindergarten and you'd
have to hold the shears so they don't go anywhere and then you can walk somewhere else we're just
going to stop this moving blade and we're going to do that by keeping our fingers here four
fingers here you're going to take your thumb out and you're going to grasp them just like this
watch again here's how I hold it normally I'm going to take my finger out and I'm going to grasp
it and I'm going to kind of it in I'm palming my shears this allows me to comb the hair while my
shears aren't swinging around to cut body parts other parts of hair whatever I'll try to do this
slow but you can also take your pinky out under and you're going to flip that's going to hold
them that's normally what I do I'll cut cut cut cut flip so that way I can Palm them that way
and then hold the comb so when we start doing our cut or one length next time we're going to really
get in the habit of palming our shears the correct way cutting the correct way and learning how to
hold the comb with the shears again you do not want to keep setting this down it's technically
depending on what state you're in I'm licensed in a couple different states and in both of those
States you're not allowed to set the comb down because that means it's then contaminated because
now it's on a dirty surface so it's always be with you either here in this hand cut cut Palm in this
hand but it's not in your pocket it's not on the counter and it's definitely oh my God I used to
work with this girl who would put it in her mouth she would be combing it put it in her mouth and
then cut and it was like some wild hyena animal stuff okay I'm pretty redneck but I don't even do
that comb it so not only does this save you time but it keeps everything technical for your state
boards not contaminated all right okay I know that's a lot I know that's a lot of information
but it's all really important and it's all gonna kind of whoo come together when we start doing our
first haircut next week I'm gonna be working on my other series on here my neighbor gave me this
really nice product and I'm excited I'm excited to try it I hope it works um I hope it works but
the following week it's going to be episode five and again we're going to be doing our zero degree
square one length blunt whatever you want to call it it's my favorite part I appreciate you all
joining me here in the bathroom let me know if you have any thoughts questions concerns comments
leave them below unless it's negative keep that to yourself please don't forget the free guide on
my website also in the description box as well as the tools we went over today and have a great week
have a great week you can be anything this week you can beat anything so why not be confident be a
little sexy be mysterious no one needs to know be light be fun owe it to yourself all right I will
see you next time for something cool something [Music]