Lecture Notes: Renaissance Costume

Overview

• The lecture covers costume influences during the Renaissance period focusing on Italian and English Renaissance.
• Elizabethan period will be covered in a future unit.
• Key themes: Women's subjugation in society, development of courtly roles, fashion laws, and costume trends.

Women's Position in Society

• Subjugation: Women were subjugated to their husbands' will.
  • Marriage transferred a woman's property and body to her husband.
  • Example: Mary married to Philip II of Spain had no legal power.
• Marriage Arrangements: Often pre-arranged for political or wealth reasons.

Court and Fashion Influences

• Role of Courtesans: Important in setting beauty standards.
• Fashion Laws: Henry VIII enacted laws for social distinction through attire.
  • Restrictions on wearing certain fabrics and colors.

Costume Documentation

• Records: Extensive records maintained by Henry VIII.
  • Paintings, letters, and tapestries provide detailed costume information.

Costume Trends and Characteristics

• Transition from Gothic to Renaissance:
  • Gothic: High hairlines, pointed features.
  • Renaissance: Natural form, rounded silhouettes, slashing of garments.
• Men's Fashion:
  • Broad shoulders, stuffed clothing (bombast), layering garments.
  • Key pieces: Doublet, gherkin, shimmer.
  • Introduction of codpieces for emphasis on masculinity.
• Women's Fashion:
  • Restrictive garments, stomacher panels, and flattened body shape.
  • Elements: Square necklines, partlets, farthingales.

Fabric and Embellishments

• Use of luxurious fabrics: Velvet, brocade, satin, and silk.
• Jewel-toned color palette.
• Embellishments: Jewels, embroidery, fur trimmings.

Accessories

• Fans and Handkerchiefs: Reflect wealth and status.
• Jewelry: Carcanet necklaces, cabochon stones.
• Footwear: Varied styles including mules, chopins.

Influential Figures and Their Styles

• Henry VIII: Influenced men's fashion heavily.
  • Promoted broad silhouettes and the use of codpieces.
• Catherine de Medici: Introduced fans from the East.
• Anne Boleyn: Known for the French hood.

Historical and Cultural Context

• Architecture: Tudor-style buildings in London.
• Cultural References: Representation in media and art.
  • TV series like "The Tudors" portray the period accurately.

Conclusion

• The Renaissance period in costume reflects social hierarchies, tensions, and the evolution of cultural norms.
• Next unit will focus on Elizabethan costume.