so this lecture will be on costume as well as some of the influences on costume of the Renaissance I'll cover Italian English Renaissance as well I will not cover Elizabethan in this video but you will get that in the next unit so as we look at this period of time it's important to understand that in the Renaissance period in England women were definitely subjugated they were at the will of her husband this is when we see the words serve and obey entered into the Catholic ceremony wedding ceremonies so even as a queen she is subordinate to the will of her husband when we look at Mary who marries philip ii of spain philip legally has the power mary does not and if she were to upset philip he would have the right to have her executed and take the throne so it's a very complicated position when we see elizabeth come into power and so when we get to the next section of this chapter i'll explain that so woman's body and her worldly possessions became the property of her husband on marriage he was allowed to do what he wanted with it and very important when we look at costume in england here to see that kind of restriction that's placed on her in terms of marriage in england she would not choose her own husband this would all be pre-arranged for wealth political reasons alliances whatever and would not be uncommon for the groom and bride to see each other until their wedding day the one thing we will see as we look at the development of English Court which is model very much after the Italian Court is that the role of the courtesan becomes important and elevated the courtesan were women who were renowned for their beauty who were invited to be at court for parties and celebrations and of course for the will of the king we'll and so many of these women became ideals of beauty that set the pace for what was considered beautiful in English society Henry the eighth enacted a bunch of laws and taxes as well as centuary laws in order to separate people kind of looking back to ancient Rome where the Roman Emperor would be able to look out on his people and know their social rules by their costume sort of that same idea except that it was definitely a way to separate the haves and have-nots so some of the sub shoring laws issued under Henry the eighth none shall wear cloth of gold or silver or silk of purple color except Earl's all about that rank and Knights of the King and then only in their Mantle's and these laws go on and on and on you could google them if you want to same applied for women in terms of documentation of costume there's a ton of information there's little mystery here Henry the eighth took great care to maintain his records his love letters his memoirs he had a ton of paintings done of himself and his wives and wealthy people hired artists the weavers with tapestries so there's a ton of information to explain the changes that you're gonna see I want you to keep gothic in mind because gothic is the polar opposite of Renaissance so in gothic we had the high hair lines plucked out eyebrows pregnancy pillows everything was an extreme of heights pointed toes pointed sleeves and it's going to shift 180 degrees the opposite direction in the beginning of the Renaissance so in the beginning it is a celebration of the natural form of the body think of the Mona Lisa but simple doesn't last very long so pretty quickly it gets extreme the men's silhouette gets more rounded and this is really due to Henry the eighth and as he becomes a larger man heavier man he requires that men stuff their stomachs shoulders arms thighs they kind of look like the Pillsbury Doughboy women on the other hand go away from the pregnancy pillow to an absolute flattened chest and stomach and wide skirt to the point that it prohibits her from sitting and moving too fast we do see the idea of garments being slashed and I'll show you that as we get into this as people could get a hold of goods faster because as we see in the Gothic period with metal rimmed wheels and shoot horses and then with book publishing and people get information faster so the crepe for new stuff becomes huge here and it's new just to have the next new thing tailors were called haberdashers sorry for the typo there and the haberdashery were the tailoring shops that men can walk into and get their clothes made for them fashion is very expensive so clothing was regarded as an investment okay starting with men's costume online that talks about a sartorial influence satire is comedy that costume is kind of goofy and funny these two guys the Dukes of Burgundy in the middle of a war shred the tents and banners of their opponents and this idea of slashing things becomes a trend here if we go back to Gothic tagging it's sort of a carry over from that except that everything was slashed to show what you were wearing underneath so this layering of clothing instead of the hems being shorter than the other it's let's just slash our clothes so you see what we're wearing underneath and maybe pull some of that fabric through is kind of like a little peekaboo and then eventually they kind of go crazy with this like they do with everything else catherine de medici loved these folding fans that were imported from the east and so we do see these very sadiq fat fans being part of their costume but one thing to understand you can imagine they're wearing two three four garments layered on top of each other so I would imagine the fans held definitely a purpose of cooling the body down you'll see feathered fans gold handles Isabella of Spain love fans and so this becomes a very important part of it and kerchiefs our handkerchiefs I put that in canvas for you you will see the introduction of a hand kerchief when you guys think of a handkerchief you think of it something you blow into blow your nose into it you don't hear it was to pad sweat off your brow and your parts of the body but they were very expensive so you oftentimes made sure you had a painting of yourself holding your hand kerchief as a way to show your wealth don't mistake ruffled things from the rough the rough is this particular color that is a signature of Elizabethan style so I'm going to push that over into Elizabethan costume but here you will see some ruffled collars okay trend slashing slashing a layering of garments to show how much fabric was used fabrics are very luxurious velvet spread Cades and this is silk velvet silk brocade silk fabric woven and a satin weave so it's shiny taffeta is a heavy shiny fabric gold and silver thread sewn into fabric a lot of garments were lined or trimmed in fur and it might be mink or as you can see here Henry the eighth has spotted Lynx fur lining which is very expensive embellishments tons of jewel sewn onto clothing the more stuff you could sew on embroider on embellish the more money you have colors here the palette is definitely jewel tones emerald green sapphire blue ruby red gold silver pearl you name it all right menswear broad shoulders Blackey silhouette as henry the eighth got larger so did men's clothes so we have stuffing and padding the stuffing is known as bombast so the old phrase like you're full of hot air you know talking trash was the term for bombast that you're full of bombast well it became a term here to use to describe the stuffing and the stepping might be horsehair it might be hey it might be whatever garments are trimmed in fur Velvets and brocades this beret hat with the plume or the feather wrapped around it became sort of the signature and this idea of layering the silhouette here men's versus women's you can see men's is going to be rounded or blocky women's is going to be narrow on the top with a small waist and then wide on the floor main garments for men we have a doublet a gherkin and a shimmer so if we go back to gothic with the coat which was the long garment the button at the front and then it was shortened to a coat Hardy which was a hip length garment and now and then it was shortened to the poor point to lace the hoes up but eventually the hoes are joined at the crotch so we no longer need that poor point so now the coats get shortened to a jacket which is called a doublet so these are these waist length jackets because we don't need any laces to hold up our hoes anymore because we have them looking like regular leggings or pantyhose so this little short jacket becomes known as a doublet but we need to layer so on top of the doublet we're gonna wear a sleeveless doublet called the gherkin it kind of looks like a vest but it's not underneath the jacket it's over the jacket and then you might slash the jerk can you show the doublet and slash the doublet to show your shirt underneath the Shamari is what Henry the eighth is wearing here and what the guy on the lower right is wearing it is sometimes referred to as a robe a knee-length robe this is a main garment it's not an outer garment it looks like a coat that you would wear to go outside but it's not it's a layering piece to show wealth so here it's full it's made of brocade it's lying to mink or on the right it's lined in leather and it's just another way to show your wealth so we know what bombast is so if you have a belly that is stuffed it is known as a piece god Nellie so you might read a man wearing a piece got belly doublet that means that he's wearing a doublet that is stuffed in the belly okay so here we can see the doublet slash to reveal a shirt which is not an undershirt although if you think about it he has nothing underneath that so it is really his undershirt and if it's peeking out at the top with a ruffle or peeking out at the sleeve that was considered very sexy to show that you can see the Gherkin here a lot of men did not like how short this was and so they added peplums to it which you should know what a peplum is by now the skirt on the jacket here from the waist down to cover their butt and their front area some of the pet ones are quite long picadillo are these extensions that you see on the shoulders they almost kind of look like shoulder pads on the outside of the garment but they made the shoulder look more broad because in the beginning underneath is a very athletic guy and so athleticism is considered the ideal in menswear before he becomes a very large man and so these extensions on the shoulders kind of added to the volume okay so we no longer seem wearing hoop lands and dresses because now he has a jacket so instead he's gonna wear leg wear basically so trunk hoes if you think of a guy wearing trunks you think of like swimming trunks or something trunk hoes is a generic word for breeches so men started wearing shorts in essence like long shorts or breeches and if there wasn't a term for him they would just call them trunk hoes hosiery is a leg covering if you could think of it that way if those trunk hoes were stuffed completely round they were known as round melon or pumpkin hoes which means they are stuffed completely round and you can see them here at the maroon ones and the ones right below that okay some men were like yeah I'm not wearing those shorts I like the idea of still wearing dresses this is not good you know in my world Henry the eighth in particular was one of those men so as he got larger he adopted the use of a skirt a wraparound skirt this really was modeled after the who plan so if you remember the hoobland was a dress with organ pipe folds the base of the who plan or the skirt part of it would have been a skirt with organ pipe folds that's what this is but it's a wraparound skirt so oftentimes the girdles had to be wrapped around their waist several times to hold up the weight of these skirts okay so wraparound skirt with organ pipe folds is a base outer garments you might see capes you might see things that look like the old cert coat but this is a lot of fabric to wear at one time here you can see what their undershirts look like they always wore a doublet so the shirt was never really exposed the only thing that might be would be the neckline or the cuff and so it's where the decoration was if he's like a lawyer or a physician he might still be wearing the old tunics from back in the day which would just be referred to as a gown all right I'm sure you notice the codpieces in the previous images so the codpiece in the beginning was the panel that connected the hosiery but eventually the codpiece becomes an item so Henry the 8th as he became heavier and could not produce an heir to the throne and only had one people questioned his manhood so he made his codpieces huge so huge they would literally enter the room for he did he would stuffed them and sometimes even put coins in them so they made noise when he walks and sometimes had tassels dangling from them so it became a focal point kind of hilarious and they were added to everything whether you needed them or not so here you can see up at the opening in the base or the wraparound skirt he's got the girdle that's being used to pull that codpiece out farther than it even would be okay hosiery or the leggings or the hose are referred to as socks stocks or hoes most men adopted the use of just like tights or hoes made of wool or some type of combination of wool and silk or wool and cotton Henry the eighth though wanted to emphasize his cows because he thought he had fabulous calves so he would not only wear tights but he would add like a knee-high sock that would be secured with a garter or a ribbon just below the knee to make his calf muscles look bigger so then we had the delineation of upper hose and lower hose but what gets confusing is that hose socks and stocks are the same thing so if you see something referred to as up socks that means tights upper stocks that means tights upper hose that means tights lower hose socks or stocks are the knee-high socks eventually the hosiery is actually divided and sewn together at the knee referring to the upper and the lower part of it the word nether is another word for lower so you might see another hose now there stocks or nether socks which just means lower hose lower socks or lower stocks hats the plumed Berets were really the most common that you'll see sometimes they were stuffed and embellished in different ways as you can see in this image okay where women used handkerchiefs as a way to show their wealth in a painting men use gloves so gloves were made to the contours of your hands they were very complicated and difficult to make so if you could afford them you made sure people saw you with them and saw not just you wearing them that just carrying them just like women carried handkerchiefs and so we often times to see paintings where a man is just holding his gloves because he wants people to know how much money he had they weren't really refined and they weren't really comfortable yet but by the time we get to Elizabethan the leather industry becomes a major industry you can see here these gloves have lace and embroidered gauntlet which is the cuff part of it here for men in the Renaissance fetlock gets longer Henry VIII I've never had hair longer than just at his neck but if you saw me in our DaVinci he had long hair and the Italian men all had long hair and the French men had long hair they also have these little goatee mustaches and mustaches and goatees we pointed beards that were called pict of Oz shus kind of funny so in the beginning the pool lanes or crack house that we saw in Gothic that were super pointed literally look like they just got chopped off just a square toe but then the square toe gets big and wide and that's called an ox mouth and then they get softened and rounded to what looks like a duck's bill and those are called duck bill shoes so here you can see the Shamari the doublet the Gherkin the bass skirt the hose the duck bill shoes here's a doublet with round hose here's Henry the eighth famous painting of him and by the way if the painter didn't paint him the way he wanted to look the painter would probably have been executed so here we have a plumed beret we have a Shamari that is lined and mink the Shamari exterior fabric is a brocade and velvet you've got a doublet with a gherkin over it the doublet is slashed to show the shirt underneath you've got the base skirt and you've got the codpiece that's being pulled out we've got the upper hose and the lower hose and you can see the girth the Garter around just below the knee and then the ox valve shoes here you can see a Shamari that has frog closures on the right images of Henry the 8th and on the left Edward this image actually Henry the 8th on the right is a wax replica from Madame Tussauds Wax Museum in Paris famous images of him with his spotted links Shamari and more images here is a you can see the detail of the slashing here our Jerkins with picadillo on the shoulders and peplums at the waist interesting doublet here that is tapestry these are replicas for theater and armor mimicked the silhouettes of shoes adding the codpiece to them as well so women's costume she's very constrained and rules really governed her attire before marriage she would show her hair once she got married she would cover it completely sleeves are required to reach the wrist we see heavy Velvets and Damus long trains headdresses are pretty interesting you have in your reader a page that's called the looks of love which profiles the head wear of each of Henry the eighth's wives and the trends that they set so the plastron goes away in favor of a stomacher so rather than the panel being inserted inside of the dress it now is on the outside of the dress so just like the plaster and she's stitched into it but the stomacher panel it has a deep v and it's very restrictive so it was very difficult for women to move or to sit comfortably or to do much of anything these dresses silhouette narrow at the top with this square neckline which is a signature here of English Renaissance and the stomacher flatten the chest and stomach enter the 8th love cleavage so oftentimes the boobs were shoved up almost to her neck and the deep v stomacher really restricted her movement and sucked in her waist so you can see how smooth fitting the top is square neckline picadillo sometimes on the sleeves on the shoulder sorry you can see the sleeves lemon sometimes / to show another sleeve underneath and the skirt split open to give the illusion of another dress underneath that opening is called the four-part the panel that's inside of the opening I should say so the plastering goes away the stomacher comes into place the four part is the opening there and you can see how elaborate the sleeves are I did put a lot of information on sleeve details in canvas so you should go back and review that underneath their garments they would wear a chemise which is an under tunic and then they would wear a type of corset called bodies oh I forgot something in men's wear I'll come back to that in a second so bodies were the corsa tree that had stays that were made of metal or whale bone that went vertically in side of the corset to stop her movement farthingales were the hoop skirts that created the shape oftentimes they were also made of whale bone and insert it into the neck lines were these little fake collars that are called part 'lets they're kind of like a Dickie they were not it's not a full garment underneath it just is alluding to it but it was a way for modest women to sort of cover up their neck lines a bit but they were usually made of lace or some elaborate not netting okay so let me back up bodies for men were basically like a tank top that had laces that held up that wraparound skirt that held up the bases because the wraparound skirts were so heavy that they would basically untie themselves and so the bodies were used to lace them up think of like a leotard and a tutu okay but that's for men for women all right so you can see the layering for women the chemise would have been floor-length farthingale is put on over it the body's put on on top of that don't worry about the bum roll for right now I'll explain that later the part lid is then put on the fore part the fate panel to make it look like she's wearing two gowns and then you can see once the outer gown is put on the stomach er is added and then the part lip is pulled to the corners of the top of the stomach or creating like a keyhole opening which was another signature of English Renaissance here you can see more examples of that this is Italian this is Eleanor of Toledo she's a very famous woman the wife of Cosimo de Medici you can see here that the stomacher is not as long as it is on English costume because they had completely different social roles in Italy they had a lot more power than English women did so here again Luce before marriage would be exposed when she was married to be covered the natural hair line comes back we don't have that crazy stuff we had in Gothic too of the new head pieces that come in the gabled hood and the French hood so the gabled hood is also known as the English hood it's the one that you see here it looks like the pitch of a roof on the top of her head the French hood in the beginning it starts out like a heart shaped kind of looks like Mickey Mouse ears and then it gets curved and when anne boleyn comes to english court she is known for wearing the French hood because it's curved and then once she marries hunter viii she is known for wearing the gabled hood sort of adopting English lappets were like streamers or pieces of fabric that covered the back of the hair and the side of the face kind of like a nun's habit in a way so here you can see variations on the hoods here's Anne Boleyn on the right with the French hood she's also known for that be initial necklace that she wore we see why necklaces which basically means it's got a drop from the necklace a cabochon cut I put this in canvas for you it's a polished stone we also see faceted stones although not really popular yet much more popular by the time we get to Marie Antoinette in France a Carcanet is a short necklace not really like a choker but one that sits just at the nape of the neck there and you can see they would add different pendants to them and stuff earrings were relatively simple because the necklace was really the focal point and then you can see the fans Footwear leather shoes or embellished fabric shoes mules or pant Awful's are just a slip-on shoe meaning that it has no back and chopin's were these platforms that were attached to the shoes the show has started in Venice with the courtesans and the noble women basically they would just stand and pose in them they couldn't really walk so it was really just a mark of social position I'll explain where these show pants go by the time we get to Elizabethan here you can see variations on the Mules our pant on fills with the attached show pads so here you can see the difference between the Italian woman's costume in English she's comfortable she's sitting she doesn't have a stomach or panel on supersoft in comparison on the right is English this is actually Mary when she was a young girl and on the left is Italian so we definitely see the difference Italian here shows her social role for sure that she has much more freedom and flexibility this is Italian most of them didn't wear head pieces or makeup they weren't dolled up the way English women were okay so French hood Carcanet with a pendant stomacher panel the bodice is in the v-shape which is the silhouette we see the sleeves and go back to canvas to review the under sleeves and the construction of the sleeves we see a girdle with what looks like a pouch these were known as pommes endures pommes endures were like potpourri pouches to make themselves smell better cone-shaped skirt with a farthingale underneath and then you can see how the four part is open to show the illusion of a dress underneath this Anne Boleyn on the Left Jane Seymour on the right ambolyn and the French head Jane Seymour in the English hood this is English costume if you've ever looked at your deck of cards they are wearing Renaissance costume here you can see the jack wearing the base skirt you can see the upper hose and lower hose you can see the color blocking on the left you can see upper and lower hose the blue jerkin over a tunic of some kind on the right this is Spanish Christopher Columbus they mostly stayed in the bastard who planned from gothic costume this is Henry the eighth and Jane Seymour and Edward of course we know that Jane Seymour died upon births and most people say that this is actually Elizabeth with her strawberry blonde hair not Jane Seymour Jane Seymour was a blonde childrenswear was variations on adults costume there really is no development of the children's wear industry yet and so even the girls costume had a flattened chest and boys were similar items to their men Catherine of Aragon yes she had a pet monkey she is in the English hood and Belen and Elizabeth on the right she was known for her strawberry blonde hair we'll talk more about her later Jane's see more on the left and of cleves on the right then Catherine Howard and Catherine Potter this is Mary and her husband Philip I put some videos in canvas for you that give you really good overviews of Henry the 8th and his wives and Mary will talk more about Elizabeth in the next video here you can see wedding dresses from today we can see the four part the opening you can see what almost looks like a stomacher if you saw Kate Middleton's wedding her dress was designed by Alexander McQueen the bodice of it is very stiff almost like a stomacher the top almost looks like a part lip and funny Disney stuff if you ever get a chance to go to London you should go to the Tower Museum and see the crown jewels you're not supposed to take a picture so I snuck it this is Tudor architecture this is what a lot of old London town looks like under Henry the 8th as London was being built it was this plaster and beam construction with thatched roofs so you still see this today this is what lots of areas of London look like Liberty of London might be familiar with the brand it's a famous store in London that is built in tudor-style this is Windsor Castle where Henry the Eighth lived this is the Tower of London with the Tower Bridge so if you were getting your head chopped off it would be happening at the Tower of London and this is what it looks like from the other side's bridge lots of good movies and series here in Sep set in Renaissance period the Tudor series on stars was excellent the Medicis on PBS The Borgias on Showtime The Other Boleyn Girl Lady Jane ever after and the other Boleyn Girl Costume was very well done we see the French hood here her costume was bold on purpose to show her difference in comparison to English women that she was outspoken she was intelligent ambolyn spoke four languages she was very well read which most English women were not natalie portman playing Anne Boleyn and you can almost see how the dress is stitched to her stomach her costume designers took a lot of care to make sure that they got the costume right so even Eric Bona who plays Henry the eighth was wearing a Shamari was wearing a codpiece was wearing historically accurate costume in the Tudors series the costume designer did not want Jonathan Rhys Meyers to look unattractive she wanted to show the power that he had and how attractive he was the young man and how athletic he was and how he would be attracted to ambolyn and so Jonathan Rhys Meyers playing Henry the 8th and Natalie Dormer playing ambolyn I did put in canvas some interviews with the costume designer and background about this because I think they did a very good job in these three minute videos of explaining Henry the eighth's so go back and watch those so this is the cast of the tutors you might recognize some of those people Henry Cavill you might recognize Natalie Dormer from Game of Thrones as well as other people in this cast who went on into other films as well the costume designer decided not to create stomacher panels for ambulance she wanted her to appear very modern and interesting and so at one point she even puts her in a pair of Donna Karen riding jawed furs because she wants to show how progressive Anne Boleyn was and how she could really ruffle feathers in society this is the girl who plays James Seymour and she never stuffed Jonathan Rhys Meyers so he's never wearing the piece got belly doublet and she pressed the organ pipe folds of the bass down because she wanted it to look more architectural and strong and geometric and so Jonathan Rhys Meyers in the film is always wearing more contemporary versions of it and she banned the codpiece from the film from the series here these would be round hoes that would be normally stuffed but the costume designer chose not to but you can see the slashing okay so that is costume for the Renaissance and the next set of videos will be on Elizabethan