Pattern Drafting Tutorial Notes

Key Steps in Pattern Drafting

1. Marking Bust and Waist Lines

   • From the top, mark the bust level.
   • Square a horizontal line across to create the bust level line.
   • Mark the back waist length from the top and square a line across to form the waistline.

2. Center Back Line

   • From the edge of the paper, mark one inch in, and draw a vertical line down to set the center back line.
   • Extend the waistline to the paper's edge.

3. Setting Up Side Lengths

   • From the waistline, mark the side length upwards, and square a line to make the bust line.
   • On the bust level line, mark bust/4 + 3/4 inch.
   • Similarly, mark along the waistline and bust line, connect the points with a vertical line.

4. Center Front Adjustments

   • From the center front, mark bust/4 + 1 inch.
   • Connect this point with a vertical line.

5. Front Waist Length

   • Mark down the front waist length from the paper's right side.
   • Square a horizontal line to form the front waistline.

Drafting the Back Pattern

1. Shoulder and Arm Side Lines

   • Mark cross shoulder/2 at the top line to identify the shoulder line.
   • Mark the same measurement on the bust line and connect with a vertical line to form the arm side line.

2. Neckline and Shoulder Slope

   • Measure up from the back waistline for the nip-to-waist measurement.
   • Use a French curve to draw the neckline.
   • Connect points to draw the shoulder slope.

3. Armhole Construction

   • Divide the arm side line into two and mark
   • Quarter inch inward adjustment is made using the French curve.
   • Square a horizontal line from the mid M.O. to center back, forming the across back line.

4. Darts

   • Mark dart width of half inch on both sides of the across back line.
   • Determine dart direction from center back on the bust line.
   • Distribute waist dart width between center back and bodice middle.

5. Connecting Waist to Armhole

   • Measure waist, adjust for dart width, and connect to the armhole.

Drafting the Front Pattern

1. Front Shoulder and Armhole

   • Divide front across shoulder by two, mark on bust line, and connect.
   • Pivot shoulder width from a marked point to the top line.
   • Use a French curve for the neckline curve.

2. Adjusting Armhole and Darts

   • Divide the armhole line into thirds, adjust the curve, and ensure across chest measurement aligns.
   • For bust dart, connect marked points and ensure armhole alignment with the back pattern.

3. Side Seam and Bust Dart Adjustments

   • Calculate side seam differences for dart adjustments.
   • Transfer armhole dart to side seam.
   • Smooth and measure armhole curve to match.

Fine-tuning and Contouring

1. Contour Adjustments

   • Measure shoulder to under bust, draw horizontal line.
   • Make adjustments for bust ease and ensure under bust ease.

2. Back Pattern Adjustments

   • Repeat contouring process for the back.
   • Trim if necessary for desired bust ease.

Finishing Touches

1. Adding Seam Allowance

   • Copy the sloper and add seam, zip, and hem allowances.
   • Adjust dart start points for ease control.

2. Final Adjustments and Closing Notes

   • Check all measurements and ensure alignment.
   • Tips for moving darts and ensuring proper fit.
   • Close tutorial with thank-you message and next steps.