Comprehensive Guide to Pattern Drafting

from the top I'm going to mark down my bust level and then square our horizontal line right across this point this line becomes my bust level line from the top line I'm going to mark down my back waist length and and square a horizontal line right across this point. This line becomes my waistline. Now from the edge of my paper, I'm going to mark in one inch along, and then square down a vertical line. This vertical line becomes my center back line. I'm just going to continue the waistline to the other end of the paper. From the waistline I'm going to mark upward my side length and then square horizontal line right across this point. This line becomes my bust line. Now on the bust level line I'm going to mark my bust divided by 4 plus 3 quarter of an inch. and then mark along on the waistline and also on the bust line. Then I'm going to connect this point with a vertical line. Now the other side of my paper is my center front. From center front I'm going to mark my bust divided by 4 plus 1 inch and then I'll connect this point with a vertical line. from the right hand side of my pattern paper i'm going to mark down my front waist length which happens to be be one inch longer than that of my back waist length now i'm going to square a horizontal line right across this point and this is my front waist line okay so by the way your front and your back waist length might be the same but mine happen to be longer than that of the back Working on the back, I'm going to mark on the top line my cross shoulder divided by 2. This is my shoulder line. Now, I'm going to mark this same measurement on the bust line like so. Then I'm going to connect these two points with the vertical line. This vertical line is the arm side line. Now, on the arm side line, I'm going to mark down from the top 1 inches. Now from this point, I'm going to pivot my tape until my shoulder width measurement touches the top line. And then I'm going to mark a point right on the top line like so. I'll measure upward from my back waistline, my nip to waist measurement. Then I'll square in from this point one inch line. Using my French curve, I'm going to draw my neck line like so. Now I'm going to connect from this point to the point on the arm side line to draw my shoulder slope. Now take the remaining length of this arm side line and divide it into two equal parts. Mark a point and come inside one quarter of an inch. And then using my French curler, connect these three points together to form my arm hole for the back bodies. Now from the mid M.O. I'm going to square a horizontal line to center back. This horizontal line becomes my across back line. Now on both sides of this horizontal line on the M.O. I'm going to mark a dart width of half an inch. Okay. Now to get the direction of the dart where it's going to start from, I'm going to Mark in from center back on the bust line my bust to bust measurement divided by two and do the same on the waistline and connect both points together. Now from mid shoulder I mark a point and connect from this point to the vertical line just drawn. So where this diagonal line intersects with the across back line, this is where my M.O. dart, which is also the shoulder dart, will start from. To draw the waist dart, I have a dart width of one and quarter inches but I'm going to distribute this dart width between the center back and the middle of my bodice. Now on both sides of this vertical line I marked a dart width of three quarter of an inch while on center back I marked a dart width of three eighths of an inch. Center back dart is going to start from the across back line. Next, I'm going to mark on the waistline my waist measurement and do this i measure from center back and insert my waist divided by four minus quarter of an inch plus my dart width now connect from this point to the armhole like so moving over to the front i am going to divide my front across shoulder by two by the way the front across shoulder is narrow than that of the back with about quarter of an inch so i mark this on also the bust line and connect both points together. So I'm just going to split this so I can work on just the front pattern. Now from the top of this line I'm going to mark down one and a half inch and pivot my shoulder width measurement from this point until it touches the top line. Now I'm going to connect both points together to draw the front shoulder slope. Now I'm going to measure upward from the front waistline, my center front, and then mark up points. Now from this point, using my French curve, I'm going to draw the neckline curve for the front. For the armhole, I'm going to measure from this point down to the bust line, the total length of this line, and divide this into three equal parts. Now from this point, I'm going to go... in three quarter of an inch. So from this point to the center front should equal my across chest measurement divided by two. Using my french curve I'm going to draw the armhole curve like so. From center front on bust level I'm going to mark my bust to bust divided by two and do the same on the waistline. I'm going to connect these two points together and on both sides of this vertical line I'm going to mark my dart width of 1.25 inches in total. Now I'm going to connect these points to form the dart. Now from center front on the waistline I'm going to mark my waist measurement divided by 4 plus quarter of an inch. Then, plus the dart width of 1 Now, I'll connect the point on the waistline to the armhole like so. Next, I'm going to take the side seam measurement of the back and that of the front, and then subtract the back side seam from the front side seam. We're going to be taking the difference between these two side seams as a dart. And this, for me, is 1". Okay. Now, from this point, I'm going to draw... my bust darts. First I'm going to close the armhole dart on the back bodies and then using my French curve I'm going to smoothen the armhole curve of the back bodies. After doing this I am going to take the measurement of the back armhole. So this process is to create the bust dart, the actual bust dart. Okay, now from this point on the arm side line, I'm going to square a line, a diagonal line to the bust point. All right, now I'm going to take the total curve of the arm hole. And after doing this, you will notice your front arm hole is longer than that of the back arm hole. So you're going to subtract the back arm hole from the front arm hole. So whatever the difference is, you're going to be taking it on the front arm hole as a dart. And this for me is about 1 of an inch, okay? The goal here is to make the front armhole either equal to that of the back armhole or maybe a quarter of an inch shorter than that of the back armhole. Okay, now I'm going to fold the dart and then redraw the armhole. To redraw the armhole, I'm going to start from the top of the armhole curve. I'll place my French curve like so and continue from that top point. and connect to the bust line like so. Now I'm going to take the measurement of the armhole just to be sure that it's either equal to the back or quarter of an inch shorter than that of the back. Whatever you choose. So after doing this it's still like one eighth of an inch longer than that of the back. My goal here is to make it equal to the back armhole. So right now after taking more from the top I'm going to smoothen the armhole curve again and take the armhole measurement again just to be sure it's equal to that of the back armhole. Now after measuring my armhole is equal to that of the back. Right now I'm going to tape this dart in and then to transfer this dart to the previous bust dart we have I'm going to mark the midpoint of the bust dart. and then slash through this line to the bust point and then I'm going to slip a piece of paper and tape this in like so. All right now we have transferred the armhole dart to the side seam. Now I'm going to close this dart first of all and then I have to true the side seam by just smoothing the line of the side seam. And I'm just going to use my ruler to smoothen this line. Now I'll go ahead and cut off this pattern while the dart is closed. Make sure you cut out your pattern while the dart is closed. Cutting the M. of the bodice I'm going to close the waist dart and true the waistline to true the waistline I usually come down from the dart leg 1 8 of an inch and then use my cove ruler to just you know smoothing the waistline like so and then I'll go ahead and just cut out this part of the pattern I'll close the back armhole dart and repeat the same process for the back. I'll close the waist dart and through the waist. For the center back dart, I decided not to cut it out because I need this pattern in the future. So I want to be sure I know that I have a center back dart. So I'm just going to leave this, but you can go ahead and cut yours if you have a center back dart. So right now I'm just going to match. the shoulder seam just to make sure they're equal and then I'll close the dart and also match the side seam but before then I'll measure the side seam of the back and after doing this I have one eighth of an inch difference which I'm going to trim out of the armhole and I also measure the front and I have that same amount on the front I'm going to take that off on the armhole so right now they're equal yeah we're good to go so next up i am going to shape this pattern a little bit and i did a tutorial on this in my contouring guide tutorial what i did is to measure from top of the shoulder downwards your shoulder to under bust measurement i draw a horizontal line right across that point and then on the side seam i'm going to take 3 8 of an inch in And then I'll close the bust dart using my fringe curve. I'm just going to draw a curve line from the bust level line. I'm drawing this from the bust level line to meet this point on the bust line. And then I'll continue this curve line to zero point on the waist line. Okay, we are doing this just to create a bit of curve on the bust area of the bodies. and by the way some amount of ease is left at the under bust level which depending on the design i'm going to take out along the waist dart at the under bust level okay Now before you take in on the underbust line, do make sure you take your underbust circumference just to be sure that you have enough ease around your underbust to follow through this process. Okay, so we're going to be repeating the same process on the back like we did on the front. Like I did on the front, I started the curve from the waistline through the point on the underbust and then... to the bust level line like so but I later on came back to trim a little bit from the back pattern because I realized that after taking my bust measurement my ease around this area was a little bit too much so the goal is to have at least one inch ease around the bust area so I trimmed a little bit from the back side seam like so Okay, now I'm going to take this measurement and after taking this measurement I have just half of an inch of ease which is a total number of One inch around my bust circumference, which is perfect right now This is my pattern after copying my sloper on a fresh pattern paper I added my zip allowance to the center back of the bodice and seam allowance and hem allowance around the bodice. For the back pattern piece, you can choose to start your back dart from the bust level line. But if you do this, this is going to give you more ease around the bust, your bust circumference. So I do not want this extra ease, so I decide to start my dart from the bust line. Okay, now for the armhole dart, you can move it to the shoulder. You can move it to the neckline depending on the design or you can use it as a yoke. Now for the front bodice, you can move the bust dart to the mid shoulder. You can move it to the neckline. You can move it to the waist. You can move it to wherever. Now it's very important to note that if you're going to be sewing the bust darts or your waist darts, you need to move the bust darts and the waist darts a certain distance from the bust point. Now to know the amount of distance you need to move down from the bust point, you need to subtract your upper bust measurement from your bust circumference. Okay, so whatever difference, for example, if you have a difference of one inch, then you need to come down from the bust point with one inch. If you have a difference of two inches, you need to come down with 1.5 inches. If you have a difference of... three inches you need to come down two inches a difference of four you need to come down two and a half inches and so on and so forth now because the difference between my upper bust and my bust is two inches i came down from the bust point with one and a half inches for both the waist dart and the bust dart well guys we've come to the end of this tutorial i do hope you find this tutorial helpful please if you do remember to leave a comment Like this video and subscribe to my channel. I'll see you next time. Bye-bye.

This vertical line becomes my center back line. I'm just going to continue the waistline to the other end of the paper. From the waistline I'm going to mark upward my side length and then square horizontal line right across this point.

This line becomes my bust line. Now on the bust level line I'm going to mark my bust divided by 4 plus 3 quarter of an inch. and then mark along on the waistline and also on the bust line. Then I'm going to connect this point with a vertical line.

Now the other side of my paper is my center front. From center front I'm going to mark my bust divided by 4 plus 1 inch and then I'll connect this point with a vertical line. from the right hand side of my pattern paper i'm going to mark down my front waist length which happens to be be one inch longer than that of my back waist length now i'm going to square a horizontal line right across this point and this is my front waist line okay so by the way your front and your back waist length might be the same but mine happen to be longer than that of the back Working on the back, I'm going to mark on the top line my cross shoulder divided by 2. This is my shoulder line. Now, I'm going to mark this same measurement on the bust line like so. Then I'm going to connect these two points with the vertical line.

This vertical line is the arm side line. Now, on the arm side line, I'm going to mark down from the top 1 inches. Now from this point, I'm going to pivot my tape until my shoulder width measurement touches the top line.

And then I'm going to mark a point right on the top line like so. I'll measure upward from my back waistline, my nip to waist measurement. Then I'll square in from this point one inch line. Using my French curve, I'm going to draw my neck line like so. Now I'm going to connect from this point to the point on the arm side line to draw my shoulder slope.

Now take the remaining length of this arm side line and divide it into two equal parts. Mark a point and come inside one quarter of an inch. And then using my French curler, connect these three points together to form my arm hole for the back bodies. Now from the mid M.O. I'm going to square a horizontal line to center back.

This horizontal line becomes my across back line. Now on both sides of this horizontal line on the M.O. I'm going to mark a dart width of half an inch. Okay.

Now to get the direction of the dart where it's going to start from, I'm going to Mark in from center back on the bust line my bust to bust measurement divided by two and do the same on the waistline and connect both points together. Now from mid shoulder I mark a point and connect from this point to the vertical line just drawn. So where this diagonal line intersects with the across back line, this is where my M.O.

dart, which is also the shoulder dart, will start from. To draw the waist dart, I have a dart width of one and quarter inches but I'm going to distribute this dart width between the center back and the middle of my bodice. Now on both sides of this vertical line I marked a dart width of three quarter of an inch while on center back I marked a dart width of three eighths of an inch.

Center back dart is going to start from the across back line. Next, I'm going to mark on the waistline my waist measurement and do this i measure from center back and insert my waist divided by four minus quarter of an inch plus my dart width now connect from this point to the armhole like so moving over to the front i am going to divide my front across shoulder by two by the way the front across shoulder is narrow than that of the back with about quarter of an inch so i mark this on also the bust line and connect both points together. So I'm just going to split this so I can work on just the front pattern. Now from the top of this line I'm going to mark down one and a half inch and pivot my shoulder width measurement from this point until it touches the top line. Now I'm going to connect both points together to draw the front shoulder slope.

Now I'm going to measure upward from the front waistline, my center front, and then mark up points. Now from this point, using my French curve, I'm going to draw the neckline curve for the front. For the armhole, I'm going to measure from this point down to the bust line, the total length of this line, and divide this into three equal parts.

Now from this point, I'm going to go... in three quarter of an inch. So from this point to the center front should equal my across chest measurement divided by two. Using my french curve I'm going to draw the armhole curve like so. From center front on bust level I'm going to mark my bust to bust divided by two and do the same on the waistline.

I'm going to connect these two points together and on both sides of this vertical line I'm going to mark my dart width of 1.25 inches in total. Now I'm going to connect these points to form the dart. Now from center front on the waistline I'm going to mark my waist measurement divided by 4 plus quarter of an inch. Then, plus the dart width of 1 Now, I'll connect the point on the waistline to the armhole like so. Next, I'm going to take the side seam measurement of the back and that of the front, and then subtract the back side seam from the front side seam.

We're going to be taking the difference between these two side seams as a dart. And this, for me, is 1". Okay. Now, from this point, I'm going to draw... my bust darts. First I'm going to close the armhole dart on the back bodies and then using my French curve I'm going to smoothen the armhole curve of the back bodies. After doing this I am going to take the measurement of the back armhole. So this process is to create the bust dart, the actual bust dart. Okay, now from this point on the arm side line, I'm going to square a line, a diagonal line to the bust point. All right, now I'm going to take the total curve of the arm hole. And after doing this, you will notice your front arm hole is longer than that of the back arm hole. So you're going to subtract the back arm hole from the front arm hole. So whatever the difference is, you're going to be taking it on the front arm hole as a dart. And this for me is about 1 of an inch, okay? The goal here is to make the front armhole either equal to that of the back armhole or maybe a quarter of an inch shorter than that of the back armhole. Okay, now I'm going to fold the dart and then redraw the armhole. To redraw the armhole, I'm going to start from the top of the armhole curve. I'll place my French curve like so and continue from that top point. and connect to the bust line like so. Now I'm going to take the measurement of the armhole just to be sure that it's either equal to the back or quarter of an inch shorter than that of the back. Whatever you choose. So after doing this it's still like one eighth of an inch longer than that of the back. My goal here is to make it equal to the back armhole. So right now after taking more from the top I'm going to smoothen the armhole curve again and take the armhole measurement again just to be sure it's equal to that of the back armhole. Now after measuring my armhole is equal to that of the back. Right now I'm going to tape this dart in and then to transfer this dart to the previous bust dart we have I'm going to mark the midpoint of the bust dart. and then slash through this line to the bust point and then I'm going to slip a piece of paper and tape this in like so. All right now we have transferred the armhole dart to the side seam. Now I'm going to close this dart first of all and then I have to true the side seam by just smoothing the line of the side seam. And I'm just going to use my ruler to smoothen this line. Now I'll go ahead and cut off this pattern while the dart is closed. Make sure you cut out your pattern while the dart is closed. Cutting the M. of the bodice I'm going to close the waist dart and true the waistline to true the waistline I usually come down from the dart leg 1 8 of an inch and then use my cove ruler to just you know smoothing the waistline like so and then I'll go ahead and just cut out this part of the pattern I'll close the back armhole dart and repeat the same process for the back. I'll close the waist dart and through the waist. For the center back dart, I decided not to cut it out because I need this pattern in the future. So I want to be sure I know that I have a center back dart. So I'm just going to leave this, but you can go ahead and cut yours if you have a center back dart. So right now I'm just going to match. the shoulder seam just to make sure they're equal and then I'll close the dart and also match the side seam but before then I'll measure the side seam of the back and after doing this I have one eighth of an inch difference which I'm going to trim out of the armhole and I also measure the front and I have that same amount on the front I'm going to take that off on the armhole so right now they're equal yeah we're good to go so next up i am going to shape this pattern a little bit and i did a tutorial on this in my contouring guide tutorial what i did is to measure from top of the shoulder downwards your shoulder to under bust measurement i draw a horizontal line right across that point and then on the side seam i'm going to take 3 8 of an inch in And then I'll close the bust dart using my fringe curve. I'm just going to draw a curve line from the bust level line. I'm drawing this from the bust level line to meet this point on the bust line. And then I'll continue this curve line to zero point on the waist line. Okay, we are doing this just to create a bit of curve on the bust area of the bodies. and by the way some amount of ease is left at the under bust level which depending on the design i'm going to take out along the waist dart at the under bust level okay Now before you take in on the underbust line, do make sure you take your underbust circumference just to be sure that you have enough ease around your underbust to follow through this process. Okay, so we're going to be repeating the same process on the back like we did on the front. Like I did on the front, I started the curve from the waistline through the point on the underbust and then... to the bust level line like so but I later on came back to trim a little bit from the back pattern because I realized that after taking my bust measurement my ease around this area was a little bit too much so the goal is to have at least one inch ease around the bust area so I trimmed a little bit from the back side seam like so Okay, now I'm going to take this measurement and after taking this measurement I have just half of an inch of ease which is a total number of One inch around my bust circumference, which is perfect right now This is my pattern after copying my sloper on a fresh pattern paper I added my zip allowance to the center back of the bodice and seam allowance and hem allowance around the bodice. For the back pattern piece, you can choose to start your back dart from the bust level line. But if you do this, this is going to give you more ease around the bust, your bust circumference. So I do not want this extra ease, so I decide to start my dart from the bust line. Okay, now for the armhole dart, you can move it to the shoulder. You can move it to the neckline depending on the design or you can use it as a yoke. Now for the front bodice, you can move the bust dart to the mid shoulder. You can move it to the neckline. You can move it to the waist. You can move it to wherever. Now it's very important to note that if you're going to be sewing the bust darts or your waist darts, you need to move the bust darts and the waist darts a certain distance from the bust point. Now to know the amount of distance you need to move down from the bust point, you need to subtract your upper bust measurement from your bust circumference. Okay, so whatever difference, for example, if you have a difference of one inch, then you need to come down from the bust point with one inch. If you have a difference of two inches, you need to come down with 1.5 inches. If you have a difference of... three inches you need to come down two inches a difference of four you need to come down two and a half inches and so on and so forth now because the difference between my upper bust and my bust is two inches i came down from the bust point with one and a half inches for both the waist dart and the bust dart well guys we've come to the end of this tutorial i do hope you find this tutorial helpful please if you do remember to leave a comment Like this video and subscribe to my channel. I'll see you next time. Bye-bye.

Transcript for:Comprehensive Guide to Pattern Drafting

Transcript for:
Comprehensive Guide to Pattern Drafting