Bulgari's Jewelry and Watch Evolution

Sep 1, 2024

Overview of Bulgari

Founding and History

  • Founded by great silversmiths, including Cheerio Bulgari.
  • Third largest jewelry producer in the world.
  • First shop opened in Rome in 1884.
  • Initially focused on decorative silver pieces, later expanded to precious stones and jewels.
  • Transition of ownership to Mr. Bulgari’s sons in 1932.

Serpenti Motif

  • Market interest in snake-inspired jewelry was influenced by Queen Victoria's engagement ring.
  • Bulgari adopted the serpentine motif in designs in 1948.
  • First iteration of the Serpenti collection featured a coiled high jewelry piece with a concealed watch.
  • Used mechanical movements from leading manufacturers like JLC, Piaget, and Vacheron Constantin.

Expansion into Watches

  • In the late 20th century, Bulgari sought to expand into the watch market.
  • Inspired by brands like AP and Patek.
  • Hired Gerald Genta to create an original look for their watch line.
  • Established a Swiss subsidiary for watch production in 1980.

Key Developments

  • Launched the Bulgari Bulgari watch in the following decades.
  • Continued development of the Serpenti collections and exploration of new materials and gem setting.
  • Acquired manufacturing rights to Gerald Genta's and Daniel Roth's watch brands in 2000, gaining access to new designs.

Octo Finissimo Collection

  • LVMH acquired a majority stake in Bulgari in 2011.
  • Development of the Octo Finissimo collection began, launching in 2014.
  • Features a highly faceted case with a thinness of only 5.15 mm.
  • Gained respect within the industry for pushing boundaries in ultra-thin watchmaking.
  • Experimentation with materials like sandblasted titanium and precious metals for dramatic styles.
  • Known for setting records with complications in the past few years.

Market Position

  • Bulgari's watches leveraged from niche fashion offerings to respected mechanical timepieces.
  • Quartz timepieces range from a few hundred to low thousands of dollars.
  • Current Octo collection production watches start around $4,000.
  • Notable recognition includes winning the 2021 GPHG prize for the Octo Finissimo perpetual calendar.

Conclusion

  • The Octo Finissimo collection is viewed as a future classic.
  • Bulgari represents a significant player in the mechanical watch industry.