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Understanding Coastal Geography and Features
May 13, 2025
Introduction to Coasts - GCSE Geography
Key Terms
Constructive and Destructive Waves
Fetch, Swash, and Backwash
Longshore Drift
Concordant and Discordant Coastlines
Bay, Cove, Beaches, Deposition, Cliffs, and Erosion
Waves and Their Influence
Waves significantly shape the UK's coastline.
Formation:
Waves are caused by wind blowing over the surface of the sea.
Factors Affecting Wave Strength:
Duration the wind has been blowing.
Strength of the wind.
The distance the wave has traveled, known as
fetch
.
Types of Waves
Destructive Waves
Characteristics:
Usually form in stormy conditions.
Larger, more powerful, with lots of energy.
Created by strong winds blowing over a long fetch.
Erode the coastline with a stronger backwash than swash.
High and steep shape, short in length.
Constructive Waves
Characteristics:
Form in milder weather conditions.
Break on the shore and deposit materials.
Have a strong swash that carries materials up the beach and a weaker backwash.
Longer in length but shorter in height, almost flat.
Longshore Drift
Process where sediment moves along the coast.
Swash and Backwash:
Swash comes up the beach at an angle, backwash goes straight back out.
Direction of prevailing wind influences the swash direction.
Diagram Tips:
Use solid arrows for swash and dotted arrows for backwash.
Coastal Features
Concordant Coastlines
Formation:
Layers of different rock types run parallel to the coast.
Hard rock protects softer rock behind it.
Coves:
Form when hard rock is breached, allowing erosion of softer rock.
Example: Lulworth Cove in Dorset.
Discordant Coastlines
Formation:
Bands of rock types are perpendicular to the coast.
Headlands (hard rock) and bays (soft rock) form.
Process:
Softer rock erodes faster, forming bays.
Harder rock erodes slower, forming headlands.
Headlands then become more vulnerable to erosion.
Cliffs and Beaches
Cliffs
Formation:
Formed through erosion and weathering.
Soft rock creates gentle slopes, harder rock creates steep cliffs.
Beaches
Types:
Sand, pebble, shingle, and mud beaches.
Formation:
Made from eroded materials transported and deposited by the sea.
Constructive Waves:
Build up the beach profile.
Profile:
Sandy beaches have a gentle slope, pebble and shingle beaches are steeper.
Sediment size varies - larger sediments at the top, smaller at the bottom.
Transported by longshore drift and deposited by constructive waves.
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