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Understanding Coastal Geography and Features

May 13, 2025

Introduction to Coasts - GCSE Geography

Key Terms

  • Constructive and Destructive Waves
  • Fetch, Swash, and Backwash
  • Longshore Drift
  • Concordant and Discordant Coastlines
  • Bay, Cove, Beaches, Deposition, Cliffs, and Erosion

Waves and Their Influence

  • Waves significantly shape the UK's coastline.
  • Formation: Waves are caused by wind blowing over the surface of the sea.
  • Factors Affecting Wave Strength:
    • Duration the wind has been blowing.
    • Strength of the wind.
    • The distance the wave has traveled, known as fetch.

Types of Waves

Destructive Waves

  • Characteristics:
    • Usually form in stormy conditions.
    • Larger, more powerful, with lots of energy.
    • Created by strong winds blowing over a long fetch.
    • Erode the coastline with a stronger backwash than swash.
    • High and steep shape, short in length.

Constructive Waves

  • Characteristics:
    • Form in milder weather conditions.
    • Break on the shore and deposit materials.
    • Have a strong swash that carries materials up the beach and a weaker backwash.
    • Longer in length but shorter in height, almost flat.

Longshore Drift

  • Process where sediment moves along the coast.
  • Swash and Backwash:
    • Swash comes up the beach at an angle, backwash goes straight back out.
    • Direction of prevailing wind influences the swash direction.
  • Diagram Tips: Use solid arrows for swash and dotted arrows for backwash.

Coastal Features

Concordant Coastlines

  • Formation:
    • Layers of different rock types run parallel to the coast.
    • Hard rock protects softer rock behind it.
  • Coves:
    • Form when hard rock is breached, allowing erosion of softer rock.
    • Example: Lulworth Cove in Dorset.

Discordant Coastlines

  • Formation:
    • Bands of rock types are perpendicular to the coast.
    • Headlands (hard rock) and bays (soft rock) form.
  • Process:
    • Softer rock erodes faster, forming bays.
    • Harder rock erodes slower, forming headlands.
    • Headlands then become more vulnerable to erosion.

Cliffs and Beaches

Cliffs

  • Formation:
    • Formed through erosion and weathering.
    • Soft rock creates gentle slopes, harder rock creates steep cliffs.

Beaches

  • Types: Sand, pebble, shingle, and mud beaches.
  • Formation:
    • Made from eroded materials transported and deposited by the sea.
    • Constructive Waves:
      • Build up the beach profile.
    • Profile:
      • Sandy beaches have a gentle slope, pebble and shingle beaches are steeper.
    • Sediment size varies - larger sediments at the top, smaller at the bottom.
    • Transported by longshore drift and deposited by constructive waves.