this is our Nissan SR20 DET that we're going to build to make a ton of power we have a bunch of parts laid out on the table so let me show you what we're going to [Music] use sr20s of course our closed deck aluminum blocks but they do have sleeves in it so we replaced our sleeves with a fresh set of Darden stock bore sleeves these are much better than the Crusty sleeves that we're in here when we got this block it didn't have any main caps at all so we threw on a set of Billet main caps by masor as well as ailet cradle and masor Main studs for the rotating assembly we have a Brian croward stroker crankshaft so this is a 91 mm stroke which is sick we have a boost line ibeam fully forged connecting rod and a custom Wiseco Forge piston to make it all work together we have an ACL bearing set so that's Mains rods and thrust and then we have a ton of OEM parts so rear main housing all the timing guides new Hardwares the timing chain kit we've got a lower gear and we've got a masw Works mechanical timing chain tensioner which which is a good upgrade over the stock one we also have a Nissan Master engine gasket set we're going to be running an apex head gasket we're going to be running the engine in on some 1040 motol Breakin oil which is a really good oil to run an engine in on the first time and then once it's broken in we're going to switch to a 10 we40 300v racing engine oil so when we actually start making power we're going to be running it on this we've done a ton of work on the cylinder head we've got a port and polish on the intake and the exhaust S as well as new valving we also have a Brian Crower spring set with a new titanium retainer on as as well for cam shafts we went with the Brian Crower stage three so this is a big boy cam shaft over the stock one and we've got a fresh set of rockers and lifters and we fixed the rocker issue that the SR20 has we'll review that when we start putting the head together and we're going to be running a Brian Crower cam gear set on our new Brian Crower cams we also have some goodies by Platinum Racing Products here so we have an intake stud an exhaust stud both of them are made out of titanium we have valve cover dress up hardware and we're going to be running an R35 GTR ignition coil kit from Platinum Racing Products we're of course going to be running an entire halltech Standalone engine management system so we have an Elite series ECU here as well as all the sensors to make it happen we're going to be running all of this through a wiring Specialties custom harness so the engine side is SR20 the chassis side is 300ZX and the ECU side is halte of course we're also going to be running our favorite turbo manifold and turbo combination which is an rtech turbo manifold with a vband Garrett G Series turbo so we have a g377 here with an 83 AR so this turbo is going to be very happy very spoolie it's going to be very fun it's going to sound amazing and we have a new gbw 45 wastegate we haven't played with one of these yet so I'm very excited for it we have a Hyun intake manifold for the intake system dworks fuel injectors an ATI super damper and an action clutch going on out back so we have some really cool parts for this build so let's start getting this motor together to start we're going to be checking our piston ring end gaps we're probably going to have to open these up because we're running some high boost high power on this engine so let's get started and while Quinn's getting our piston ring set up I'm going to go ahead and toss some POR 15 engine enamel on this cast aluminum engine block this is going to make it look brand new and give Quinn a fresh slate to start putting all these engine parts in so I just measured our end gap for a top compression ring on cylinder 1 and this is a set of heer gauges I'm using to do it we are currently at 12 12 is actually a little bit tight we need to be at 21 so we've got quite a bit of opening up to do on this ring I've got a diamond tipped ring cutter here so we're going to file it down until we get to our [Music] 21 so if you've never seen an engine get built before what I'm doing is checking the piston ring and gaps so this right here is a piston ring that sits inside the bore so when the engine is assembled the Rings actually sit inside of these grooves on the piston and this is what SEALs the Piston inside of the cylinder cuz if we don't have rings you see all this play so when you have combustion in here the gases can bypass all that and the Rings are actually expanding into the bore to prevent that from happening and sealing the Piston now if you look in the Piston Ring which I get it sitting flush like that we have a little tiny Gap in there and that is our piston ring end Gap so when you have metals that are getting hot you have aluminum you have Steel on the boore and steel on the ring when you introduce heat the Rings everything expands the aluminum expands the steel expands and so this little Gap in here is meant to take up the expansion so when the engine gets hot the Rings swell up and that Gap closes now when you start introducing more power into the system and trying to make more horsepower you will actually increase the amount of heat that that the engine outputs when you have a lot of heat in a small ring Gap or a stock siiz ring Gap the ring will actually expand so much that it touches itself the Gap will close completely and the ring will touch and that is a really bad place to be for a Performance Engine or any engine in general because when you run out of gap for that to expand into it can't expand into that any further so if it continues to heat up the ring is going to start pushing against itself and it's going to blow out the ring lands on your piston and this is one of the failure points on a stock engine when you're talking about oh how much power can a stock engine take one of the critical factors is ring Gap so when you're building a Performance Engine one of the things you do is you open up the ring Gap that allows the piston and the cylinder to deal with excess heat and handle more heat so that's what we're doing here so I just checked it again and we're not quite at 17 so we've still got to open it up more our number we're going for for the top ring is 21021 and we're currently less than 17 so we've got some work I need [Music] do I finished cylinder 1 so our top ring is 021 for Gap and our second ring is 022 so cylinder one is finished we've got three more ring sets to do for 2 three and four and once we're finished we're going to start assembling our Pistons [Music] rod [Music] now it's time to assemble our pistons and our connecting rods now most Factory piston and Rod setups are all press fit so the Machine Shop would really have to do it but on a forge setup like these J Pistons we get to do them inhouse which is really cool so first thing first we have a wrist pin so this is what actually holds the connecting rod and the Piston together and we want to make sure that the bore inside of the Piston is nice and smooth we don't have any birds or anything that's going to get this caught up so the wrist pin does swing and the rod swings around in the Piston we want to make sure that runs nice and smooth in there and the same thing with our connecting WRA so we're going to check the small end bushing and it's got some nice movement to it it spins freely which is good so this actually gets held in by two circlips so I have a circlip here you can see the little Groove inside the piston and we're going to put a circlip in and then we're going to slide the wrist pin through with the rod and then we're going to put the other circlip in on the other side and that's how it keeps it all retained now these Pistons do have an intake and an exhaust side because the intake valves are bigger on this engine than the exhaust valves are so we're going to put the little bearing Tang which are those guys right there on the connecting rod on the exhaust side and now we just got to lube everything and put it together these pistons and rods and rotating assembly in fact was actually balanced at the machine shop so we do have specific Pistons so this is uh piston one and this is Rod one we've got the rod weight on there which is really cool so let's put these together there is one piston and Rod and luckily the SR20 is a 4-cylinder so we only have three more to [Music] do you guys have seen me build a ton of engines here in house and Nate is our social media manager and he's usually behind the camera and I think we're going to let him have a whack at putting this piston together yeah I'm going to give it a shot he was see me struggle with circlips cuz these suckers freaking suck I've watched qu do this a number of times with like the r B the 2J the 4G was the first one and I don't know it doesn't seem too difficult so I'm going to give it a shot it's pretty simple process there's C clip wrist pin connecting rod and piston so let's give it a shot see what you got dud what do you think I got you believe in me Ricky you think I got this got all right all right all right all right I don't think you do as fast as CR I think you no no no but I I think you got it for sure all right let's try it out you think I got it oh the worst possible scenario over here the first step is just make sure there's no burs in the piston or on the wrist pin it might be a bur here it's like it's pretty smooth what do you think you good with that Quinn yeah that's solid all right as long as the slides nice that's good so it's a little hard to get in but once you get it lined up it's yeah it moves smooth so this is tough wow I don't know how you did this so quick that hurt dude it just it wants to pop out it's a fight no I had it you almost had me you never had me I'm getting beat up my thumbs feel it this is tough no no ow get in there keeps popping out ladies and gentlemen don't try this at home it's almost there is that it dude no I think defeat is settling in dude I might not be able to do this all right Quinny I'm sweating over here this is tough you got it Quinn just did that in like 25 seconds yeah sucks though huh I give Quinn props guys this is not easy this is hard all right so now Nate cuz you're still putting this together so the I that's the intake side this other side is the exhaust side right so you want the tangs on the rod on the exhaust side got so tangs are there eyes here all righty right lube it up put it together brother get her all wiped down you try to wipe this grease off before throwing in that second circlip you just toss her in it's going to be real slippery now no dude it's almost there no this is very fun but very difficult dude it's like 80% there no I don't want to let it go the last last 10% use the to pry tool use the blue pry tool and just push it in the last no got to commit oh yeah baby here she goes yeah I did it that feels good hell yeah we did it I've never done this before this is really cool [Music] our pistons and connecting routs are done and they're pretty much ready to go in the engine but the engine is not ready to receive Pistons yet so next up we're going to be specking the bearings on our crankshaft now I expect this to go extremely well because we have freshly machined Billet main caps and we have a brand new crankshaft from Brian Crower so we've got standard size bearings for the main and the thrust we're just going to double check everything with plastic GAE but it should be spot on so let's check it [Music] so to start we're going to clean off the bearings on the crankshaft cuz a lot of times these cranks will have oil on them for transport so they don't rust and we want this thing bone dry to check our clearances so asars are kind of funky we got to drop the crank in and then we can put our thrust lers in usually I'll put the thrust lers in the block first but I just tried that and one of them fell out which sucks so we we got to put it in after the crank goes in but this crank looks freaking sick man we're going to plastic gauge the mains right now if they're good then we'll assemble it with lube and then check the [Music] rest [Music] so I just got our main caps back off with our plastic GAE on and we've got some good squish so what plastic GAE is for those of you who don't know it's a little green strip like that and when you put it on a bearing journal and you put the cap on and tighten it down and torque it it will actually squish it so if you notice that's it squished that's it not squished and brand new so if it's got a tighter clearance the squish will be wider and if it's got more clearance more clearance for oil if it's a bigger Gap the squish will be less so that's what we're measuring for this and there are multiple ranges so this is green plastic GA there's like blue plastic gauge and they're all for different sizes but anyway we've got it squished down so this is the little piece of paper that the plastic gauge comes in and this is your reading here so the first green is 001 which is a th000 of an inch and then the white is 0015 which is 15 10,000 and then the second green one down is 2,000 so we're going to put it right up against our squish here and if we notice it's bigger than the 2000 Mark and if we go down it is kind of closer to the 151,000 mark which is fine so the bearing spec for this is pretty close to what we're at and this reading is also super consistent for every single Journal we check here so they're all even and this is exactly what I was looking for and I thought we were going to find cuz this again is a fresh block that's been machined with new maps and this is a brand new crankshaft so I wouldn't expect it to be out very much at all I'm very happy with our bearing clearance everything looks really good so now we're going to clean all the old plastic gauge off lubricator this and do the final assembly on it and then we'll check our end throw our crankshaft is fully installed with Luben it and it feels really nice really smooth there's a huge block brace in the way so I can't like really spin it by hand that nicely feels really good so now we're going to check the end thrust all right so we got our dial indicator set up on the end crank here you'll notice so when the crank moves it's actually going to move this little dial indicator so we're checking thrust now now keep in mind this engine is assembled with Lube in it so we're going to load it all the way up so I've already zeroed it out at full left and we're going to push the crank right and it's going to walk about 3,000 so if you can see that that is our end our crank with lube and that's pretty good it's a little tight but I think it'll be plenty and if I recall it's still within spec so that's good we have endplay we have enough end play so the crank's good that's it we're dialed in so now we're going to take it off of the stand here cuz I want to put the r and seal on we also have a couple of plugs to put in gallery plugs and such and then once that's done we'll get it back on the S here and start dropping pistons in our R remain seal housing is installed and I've used a form and place gasket so we got to let it sit for like 15 minutes before we tighten it down in the meantime we've got a ton of gallery plugs that we need to install all these were pulled out for service when they clean the engine block usually Gallery plugs are like press fit but the SR has them all threaded tapered plug which is pretty cool thread sealant stick right here we're going to use this to seal it up so we've got three on the backside here we've got one big one here we've got a couple over here and then I've got a couple on this back side of the engine block next up we are going to be putting our pistons and rods inside the engine now to do that we need to start by putting our piston rings onto our piston and then we can start dropping these in the hole so this bottom ring is an oil control ring and it's got three little rings in it actually it's got the wave ring which is the first ring I put on and then it's got a lower ring that goes below that and then it's got a ring that goes above that so another thing is when you're orienting Rings the Piston manufacturer will actually give you a sheet telling you where the end gaps of the Ring need to go so oil expander Rings I've got one down here which is right here and then we need to put another one up here higher up so that ring Gap is going to be right about there and then we'll walk that ring right around moving on to compression ring so I actually have a little tool that's going to help us put these on because they're nice and brittle so we're going to expand it and drop our ring over here's our top compression ring making sure they spin nicely in their grooves which they do so now we're going to reorient them correctly this is our piston installer tool and we got to make sure she's nice and lubed up so this tool is actually going to compress the Rings as we Slide the piston on so they don't get caught by the [Music] block so just like the mains we're going to be checking the rod bearings with some plastic gauge here again this is a brand new crank and we're using brand new bearings so everything bearing spec wise should be spot on but I don't want to assume it's right and then put the engine together and then find out because we have junk oil pressure that it's wrong so it takes 5 minutes per one to check and it's super good insurance because if it's wrong immediately I don't have to find out cuz the engine's in the car and together and running I can just put it together check it right now so just like the mains I got these torqued so we're going to loosen it the rods are kind of trickier to do because you cannot let the crankshaft rotate so if it rotates it screws up the reading you're going to have to go very slow and careful and I've done that a few times where you spin the crank and then it screws everything up and then you got to start over it's not fun to do all right looks like a solid reading to me and the number we're looking for is about 2,000 that is perfect so on on the mains we're about 15 10,000 so the mains are tighter than the rods which is kind of what I like to run I like running the rod bearing clearance is a little bit looser than the mains just seems to work really well for the engines I put together so that's freaking perfect so I'm happy with that so we're going to clean it clean the plastic gauge off here then we're going to lube the bearing and put it together torque it and then cylinder one is done [Music] cylinder number one is in rotates extremely smooth we've got three more Pistons to [Music] go so our ride bearing for cylinder number four is exactly the same as it was for cylinder number one which is 2000s that's perfect so let's keep [Music] going that's closer to about the same which is 2 for spot on let's get this thing lubed up get cylinder number three [Music] in one more to [Music] go last bearing last [Music] one money let's Lube it put it back together and spin [Music] it our rotating assembly is complete and this thing feels so smooth it feels really good actually like really nice I'm excited to get this motor in the car and running it's going to be really good look at that dude the gold Piston's kind of nice huh okay so now the rotating assembly is completely finished we can start dressing the engine so we've got an oil block that needs to go on the side here this is going to allow us to run our relocation kit and our oil cooler we can put our water pump on we can start putting our timing stuff on there's actually a port npt port on the side here we're going to install our htech oil pressure [Music] sensor next up is our timing train system and this is the following [Music] guide so we've got a bunch of colored links here that's our crank one and our two cam ones are up here different colors so our crank guy is going to go on our little Mark right there like that before we install our front timing cover we're going to be upgraded to a set of PRP Billet oil pump gears so these oil pump gears that are in here from Factory are cast and if you like twostep and bang the Rev liom and do all sorts of hooligan stuff with the engine he like to crack so we're going to put a Billet gear set in here [Music] if you're wondering here is how the oil pump works right so the O pump is actually spins this way so we have our pickup which is here so this guy goes into the sump and that feeds oil into this Gallery here essentially so if you watch this space here watch this little space here as it goes through its rotation that space as we spin the oil pump gets bigger right and that is what creates a vacuum that sucks the oil out of the pan into the oil pump now as that cavity expands it gets bigger and it crosses into this section here which this is our output section so this is actually goes through this little channel here in the case and then out into the engine block and now it's in this section Watch the watch the displacement of this section here it's actually decreasing in size so that gets pushed out through the block yeah so this end as it's spinning increases in displacement which sucks the oil in and then the other side squeezes the oil and pushes it out of the oil pump and that's what makes it that's what makes it pump let's get it back together get it in the car and this is the final piece this is our drive gear for the oil pump so this actually slides onto the crankshaft is keyw and the oil pump is going to slide right over this and this is what drives the gear on that so now we can get our timing cover on let's do [Music] [Music] it so I'm waiting for our timing cover and oil pan to dry so we can start priming the oiling system on this but we're going to go ahead and get our our damper on cuz now is a good time to do that an upgraded damper is always good if you're going to do a Performance Engine this is going to definitely help us with harmonics spinning at a high RPM and high boost so absolutely got to have one of [Music] these I've got our lower oil pan on and before we put the upper oil pan on or the little guy uh we're actually going to Prime the oil pump so I've got a Mot tool breaking engine oil this is a 10w40 brakin oil and you want to run a brakin oil when you start running an engine for the first time that's a brand new motor you'd want to synthetic so we've got this we're going to pour it in the pump pick up here spin the crank and when oil starts coming out of here then we'll be done and we can get our lower [Music] pound we've got oil coming out of our oil distribution block which is perfect exactly what we wanted so I'm putting a BFF play it on and then our upper our little guy little pan this guy can go on like that glued and then we'll be done with a [Applause] [Music] short all right our 20 short block is officially complete next up we got to get the cylinder head on so we're going to drop the head gasket we got an apex integration head gasket and it's dropping the head on is going to be kind of interesting cuz we've got the chains and all this stuff kind of sticking up so I might have Ricky help me in assist on dropping the head from there we've got a mzworks head stud kit so we're going to drop the studs in tighten the studs down we're going to drop our washers and our nuts on and then we're going to torque this thing down and then we'll be ready to start tackling our valve [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] train so now that the cylinder head is torqued we can actually start installing our valve train so I've got a Starbucks cup full of lifters that I put in here like probably four or five days ago so these guys have been bleeding for a few days which is perfect so we're going to drop these in and then we've got our shims that are going to be going on our bran krower Valves and valve springs so one of the things we actually did at the Machine Shop was put a guide shim on both sides of the rocker so sr20s are notorious for spinning rockers at high RPM and high power and the reason they do that is cuz they have a guide shim which has little grooves on it like this to hold the rocker in place so the rocker is kind of like that and then the other one's just a normal shim and if you get the shim incorrect you'll kind of put a a lateral load on The Rocker and then at high RPM when you get a tiny bit of valve load it like kicks the thing out so one way to solve that is to put a guide shim on the left and the right valve spring so we've had our uh valve stem height tips actually machine to run with the guide shim and have us a level rocker which is really cool so it is the best way to fix this SR20 rocker setup but it is a very tedious thing to do so mik overport actually handled that for us which is really cool so now all we have to do is put it [Applause] together now I've been told once you put the lifters in and they're bled don't turn the motor upside down on an Sr so we're going to try and avoid flipping the motor completely which I think we can get away with here are our guide shims we got them all brand new 16 of them [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] next up we've got our Brian kraev camshafts these are a stage three 272s they're going to sound epic and the thing is going to make a ton of power and what that number 2 72 stands or if you don't know is on a fourstroke engine you have the intake stroke compression stroke power and exhaust so you have two full rotations of the crankshaft or one full rotation of the crankshaft is 360° two rotations is 720° now cam size specs and duration is actually measured in 720° of crank rotation so having a 272 cam shaft means that 272° of crankshaft rotation the valves are opening which is really cool the s13 SR20 actually has a 240° duration cam shaft isra a 272 so that's about 30 something more degrees of rotation which means we're going to get a lot more air flow out of this motor which is awesome and we have a super slick Port polish and also the rest of the valve TR is Brian Crow we have Brian Crow oversized valves Springs titanium retainers and these cams going to be Wicked this thing's going to breathe like crazy let's get these on and torqued get this thing [Music] timed [Music] our Brian Crower cam shafts were fully installed and now we're going to start getting our cam gears in and getting the same timed however these are adjustable cam gears and as always we're going to take the Hardwares out we're going to lock TI them get them back in the cam gear get them nice and tight and get these in the [Music] motor [Music] we got our cams on with the cam gears and the chain we're all timed up baby spins nice all we need now is the valve cover here we have our valve cover this has been repainted by Ricky to match uh the subframe calipers and a whole bunch of other suspension components we got so this is actually the R35 GTR Nissan gold which is really nice so let's get it on we have a very special Hardware kit for this prum Racing Products dress up Hardware [Music] kit valve cover is on we've got some cool bits on here everything has been converted to a in for crank as ventilation we have a radium pushed fitting which is really nice and we're going to be running a platinum Racing Products R35 cool kit I don't necessarily think we're going to throw that on for the video but we're going to put our exhaust and our intake manifolds on and we do have Platinum Racing Products titanium stud kits for the intake and the exhaust manifold so let's get those [Music] on put the turbo manifold on next I'm excited for [Music] this yes time for some Garrett action brother what do you think of that Ricky you ready we're almost there we're almost [Music] there here it is baby G30 770 this is a new Garett G Series ball bearing turbo and I'm stoked for it cuz this thing is going to be sick we had a G25 on our R32 and it was the happiest little turbo ever it [Music] was [Music] that is going to be it on our SR20 it is completely done now of course we still have to put this thing in the car and get it fired up but as far as the long walk and the engine goes we're completely finished this thing turned out absolutely beautiful it was an absolute blast to build this was my first time building an SR20 and it is a very interesting and fun neat little engine I want you guys to comment down below what engine you want us to build here in house next we've already done a 2J we've done an RB we've done an Sr now we did an H series we've done quite a few do you guys want to see a 13B do you want to see an LS do you want to see a K series there's a whole ton of JDM Legends and other engines out there that I do want to build so I want to thank you guys so much for watching as always don't forget to drop a like down below comment and subscribe and we'll see you guys in the next episode [Music] peace