Lecture Notes: Wave Refraction and Reflection

Introduction to Wave Refraction

• Wave Movement: Waves initially move from right to left on the screen.
• Refraction: Waves bend around a point, making a 90-degree turn.
  • If standing in various positions, the perceived direction of waves differs, although they originate from the same spot.
• Surfing Spot: Right-hand point waves create a good surfing location.

Refraction vs Reflection

• Refraction: Involves bending of waves towards shallow water.
• Reflection: Waves reflect off surfaces like a mirror.
  • Example: The Wedge at Newport Harbor.

The Wedge - A Reflection Example

• Location: Entrance to Newport Harbor with a beach and a jetty.
• Wave Dynamics:
  • Incident waves hit the side wall (jetty) and reflect.
  • Reflected waves create interference with incoming waves, forming a wedge.
  • Surfers ride this wedge for an exciting surfing experience.

Visualizing Wave Reflection

• Overhead Views: Show wavefronts moving and reflecting.
  • Reflected waves zigzag due to interactions with the jetty.
• Surfer Insight: Surfers capitalize on these reflections for better rides.

Watching the Wedge

• Video Observation:
  • Surfers taking off on reflected waves, meeting new wave crests.
  • Action involves riding reflected waves into larger waves.

Squirrel Waves and Interference

• Squirrel Waves: Small waves reflecting off the shore.
  • Interference: Interaction between incoming and outgoing waves.

Laird Hamilton and Big Wave Surfing

• Innovation in Surfing: Laird Hamilton popularized tow-in surfing using jet skis.
• Reason for Tow-in: Waves in deep water move faster, making it difficult to paddle fast enough.
  • Jet skis allow surfers to catch larger waves than possible by paddling.
• Laird Hamilton's Feat: Riding massive 50-60 foot waves at Jaws.

Conclusion

• Wave Dynamics: Understanding wave refraction, reflection, and interference is crucial for surfers.
• Technological Advancements: Jet ski tow-in technique transformed big wave surfing.

Additional Resources

• Explore Further: Search for videos on The Wedge surfing for visual examples.