another look at this would be a overhead view um you can see that the wave fronts are coming in from the right hand side your screen to the left hand side of your screen but that when they come around this point you could actually see that they're bending all the way around making a 90 degree turn and coming straight into here so if you were standing here you'd think the waves are coming in from right hand side the left hand side yet if you were standing here you'd think the waves are coming in from the top of your screen down to the bottom of your screen yet they're all coming from the same spot and they're just refracting around the point okay so nice little right hand point right here nice place to go surf now if we move along we'll find the difference now between refraction and reflection so refraction is all about bending waves right and everything bends towards shallow water reflection is kind of like a mirror right so in essence you have wave crests here right so this is a wave crest making its way to shore and a perfect example is this wave called the wedge so here's the entrance to newport harbor here's where the boats are and here's the beach right you're hanging out here's the beach setting your stuff up looking at the surfers out here trying surf these waves that are usually pretty pretty sketchy right there they're breaking hard and they want to get a hold of you and throw you around so what happens is the wave in front right this wave here made its way through here and it hit this side wall this hitting of the sidewall reflects and creates a wave behind it that's reflecting back this way okay that reflection interferes with the wave behind it and creates a wedge right there right where they meet that wedge can be seen right here so there's the wedge point that is where the reflected wave from the wave in front of this surfer is interacting with the wave that the surfer is on and it allows for a good spot to take off and ride the wave so that's why this wave is actually called the wedge right so this is what reflection is so there's no bending of the waves here this is just reflecting right off of a big um jetty okay this is a jetty so there's the rock jetty here's the rock jetty this view that you're looking at is literally this view right here looking out at that surfer now here's another overhead view of what this would look like and as you can see here's the uh here's one wavefront okay so here's one wavefront and it it moved in from out here and uh this surfer is going to catch a nice little wave right here right so as you can see this wave front's moving in and this here has created a reflected wave right here and that reflected wave is going to interact with this wave that's making its way in and you can see that this is reflecting and making a new wave right here that's going to interact with this wave and so on and so forth you could actually see the zigzag pattern of wave reflection occurring right here along this jetty that amazing that waves are doing that and of course once again here i am telling you surfers know more than you think because this actually allows for a really spectacular wave and what we're going to do now is take a look at a video of the wedge and i want you to see how spectacular this place is as far as wave reflection goes okay so let's take a look at that all right so here we are at the wedge and what you can see are some people charging the wedge so look at this for example right so here's one wave front right here goes perfectly across this little wave right here is actually a reflected wave off the back of the wave that was in front and as you can see again this wave is reflecting off of the jetty here you can see the white water spilling up onto the jetty and creating a reflected wave back behind here which is what i just showed you but notice what the surfers have found is that if you take off on the reflected wave here you'll end up running into the wave just behind what the reflected wave was and it wedges up and you get to have an exciting ride so let's watch this exciting ride right here riding the reflected wave coming into now the new wave crest and catching a much bigger wave doing a big old air like that off a bodyboard right so here it is once again catching a reflected wave into the normal wave so that's that wedging effect that's why it's called the wedge right you're catching the reflected wave and coming into the wave behind it so there you go i hope that you go onto youtube and type in the wedge surfing you can watch a lot of this stuff and see some interesting views of what uh surfing is at this place in newport all right let's get back to lecture all right hopefully you enjoyed that video uh lots of fun uh out there and uh definitely a place that you can go and and watch on a big south swell you get to watch people really go for it really close to shore super close to shore it's a great place to watch and a great place to go body surf the wedge now let's look at some more reflection but in the squirrel style view right you got to get your squirrel lenses back on and take a look at these really tiny waves and what you're going to see is these waves coming into shore and bouncing off the shore and heading back out to sea and the person that made this video has a keen eye for this uh and obviously has his squirrel lenses on too so hopefully he got another laugh out of this i'm just trying to crack you up i know it's trying times and a little weird and we need a little laugh here and there so here you go squirrel waves let's take a look sun just set and there's an incredible amount of um physics to be learned looking at these waves and going through shallow water what i'm looking at is i'm looking at waves traveling in towards the beach and then waves reflecting out through the waves that are traveling in meaning waves coming in bouncing off the beach and reflecting back out now while they bounce back out you can see the ingo incoming wave interacting with the outgoing wave wave what do we call it when one wave interacts with another let me think let me think wait a second i think that's called interference okay great i hope you enjoyed uh the squirrel waves and uh another way of looking at reflection so instead of it bouncing off a jetty like we had at the wedge along this jetty here we had waves bouncing off of the shoreline right and heading back out to sea and that person that made the video was was really good at seeing that a lot of fun checking that out now i've got an ode right here to uh one of the best big wave surfers of all time laird hamilton okay he kind of introduced using a jet ski to ride waves so towing in behind a jet ski and the reason i brought this in is just thinking about wave speed right so you know that waves move faster when they're in deep water and they move slower in shallow water and they continue to slow down as they move into shallower and shallower water well here when you get into waves that are this big um things have changed now but this is in a time when they believed you could not paddle fast enough to ride these waves to actually catch them so what laird came up with is because he wanted to ride waves that were bigger than you could catch he started getting towed in by his buddies on a jet ski that could move faster than they could paddle and then he could ride these big waves i mean as you can see here's a huge helicopter and you can see the size of this wave it's got to be a 50 60 foot wave and here's third hamilton taking off into it so let's take a look at this video you get a sense of what it's like to toe into a wave and and what i mean by waves moving faster than you can actually paddle because if you're into bigger and bigger waves you're into deeper and deeper water and waves can actually you know move faster in deeper water really the depth of the ocean is what dictates how fast a wave can move right so let's take a look at that less ball oh [Applause] ah that's a long way wavelength [Music] so oh pretty impressive right i mean to come up with the idea before it ever existed right of i need to use a jet ski to get into this wave rather than paddle is always fascinating to me and always quite impressive so hope you enjoyed that larry hamilton definitely a legend the living legend in the big wave surfing room at jaws so